[dataway]

I've got an original 68 compressor I want to use, was removed working from a 56K mile car about 30 years ago, stored indoors, still has oil dripping out of it. What are the chances it's still suitable for use?

Anyway to test one before installing it and filling the system with rare R12? Will I'm sure need a front seal and the bearing for the pulley feels kind of sketchy.

Also ... I want to use a 69 cylinder head mount for the ease of spark plug access ... any other changes that would be required to use the 69 mount on a 68?

Can't find my brace to the intake, they seem to be getting kind of spendy used.

[hgerhardt]

I've got a '66 GTO with the '69 head bracket and no other changes to make that work. I've also not had an intake brace for the past 35 years and no problems.

As to your compressor, at the least I'd drain out the oil and replace with either mineral oil if you're going with R-12 or PAG oil if going with R-134a. I'd also get a lip seal kit and replace the original ceramic/steel seal.

[dataway]

Excellent, thank you. It sure looks like the upper brace was kind of overkill. If I have any doubts I think I can fab up a much more discrete brace that would do the job.

It feels like the bearing that pulley freewheels on has got some sticky spots, freewheels beautifully for a while .. then seems to catch at random times.

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by dataway

.....It feels like the bearing that pulley freewheels on has got some sticky spots, freewheels beautifully for a while .. then seems to catch at random times.

When you have the clutch off to replace the shaft seal, then replace the bearing same time. It's a sealed ball bearing, so most likely the grease is dried out from sitting so long. See Alma Products for a seal kit. They build new A6's today from the old tooling, but they now use lip seals in place of the orig ceramics.

[Scott Thelander]

I want to use a 69 cylinder head mount for the ease of spark plug access ... any other changes that would be required to use the 69 mount on a 68?

hmmmmmm

I didnt know that 16 heads had the bosses for the 69 up mount bracket ??

I thought 68 had the headbolt style mount,,,, and 69 up used the 2 new bosses cast in the head

[dataway]

Scott, you are correct ... but yes the 16 heads, at least the ones on my late production 68 have the bosses for the 69 mount, I have one on it right now.

Is there a retail outlet for Alma products or do you have to call them to get parts?

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by dataway

...........Is there a retail outlet for Alma products or do you have to call them to get parts?

I emailed Alma in 2020 for lip seal purchase info (but not the bearing, sorry) and got this reply from Dorene in customer service:

"I had my engineer review your request and he said the service kit 73-027S would absolutely work for you [for my '66 original compressor].

The service kit includes the two piece nose cone seal, o ring, snap rings and felt seal.

I have a dealer here in Michigan that can help you get one ordered."

The dealer is –

Thermo King Michigan

955 76th St SW

Byron Center, MI 49315

Phone 616-878-4900

Email – parts@tkmichigan.com

[dataway]

I'm still pondering whether to just get a new/rebuilt A6 compressor of attempt the rebuild of the one I have.

I'm open to sources for a new/rebuilt compressor. I'm seeing a large spread of prices for the A6, and there seems to be new and rebuilt, and numerous options. Anyone have experience with a compressor from a particular source they like?

[Cardo]

I used one of the new Alma compressors on my car and ordered it through Thermo King as listed above. The new compressor is all new, and comes with the new modern type double lip front shaft seal. I've seen so many remans leak at the front seal I just didn't want to risk the mess. I converted my system to r134 and it is ICE cold. The rest of my parts I ordered through Old Air, which seems to be the same parts that Ames is handling.

[dataway]

I've got a new serpentine OEM type condenser on the way, and an OEM type aluminum dryer. Both from Old Air.

I'm wondering about the compressor, leaning towards rebuilding my current one that came off a low mileage car and shows no signs of ever leaking, turns smooth and still has clean oil coming out of it.

I notice the rebuilt units from the more reputable sources mention they use the new type lip seal.

Did you do anything else for the conversion?

[Cardo]

You will need to switch to PAG oil, and when you do your fill with the 134a and you only use 80% of the original fill specification. My line kit from Old Air had one different hardline with muffler - the pressure line there was threaded with a corresopnding threaded hose instead of a clamp on the outlet side. As far as the fill and evac instead of putting the adapters on the car I bought a set of adapters for my gauges. I didn't want anyone to be able to tell by looking at it that I changed it over. Works great - I could make some ice cubes with it. Make sure you watch the video 4Ben linked in your other thread - I called that guy and he's the one who gave me all of the info on how to do it. He's out in Arizona, so he's got to know a thing or two about getting one cold if he's out there and still in business. I also bought the sensor and switch from him to convert to a cycling clutch. It all works great.

[dataway]

I was thinking about going the cycling clutch set up ... what's the deal with that? What exactly is it doing? Assuming it cycles the clutch based on system pressure rather than the compressor just running the entire time?

Jeez, Old Air just charged me $50 to ship a 2 lb drier from Tx to NY. Wish I had checked around a bit more, found the exact same part number US made condenser from the same manufacturer for $100 less from several other vendors.

[Cardo]

No, cycling works off of temperature. The switch has an ammonia bulb and line that you place on the evaporator line with asphalt wrap. It works better than i thought it would. 10-4 on the shipping, it's gotten insane. I ended up buying my condenser from Ames because i was picking up from a show and got 10% off because i had a big enough order for a discount. The rest came from Old Air. I believe they both sell the same exact parts.

[dataway]

Does the bulb need to go on the line inside the evap case like the expansion valve line?

Speaking of the expansion valve bulb ... I've already got my evap case sealed up and mounted ... wondering in case I need to replace that valve if I can get the bulb in the right place without pulling it all back apart again.

[tjs72lemans]

No, that wrapped bulb is visual on the outside of case on the line outside. The nice thing about newer compressors are they only use about 5 hp of engine as opposed to the A6 which uses about 15 hp. You don't even notice the rpm drop at idle as it's running. Stock versions use an idle up solenoid to help with that issue.

[Cardo]

I believe he's going to use his A6. The bulb can go either place as stated above. I originally installed the bulb in the evaporator in the interest of it being more accurate there, but it was defective and I was not going to pull everything back apart at that point to replace it. It works fine wrapped to the line going into the case.

[dataway]

Yep, at present the plan is to use my A6 and R12 ... and I need to come up with a idle solenoid too which isn't going to be easy.

Future may include a modern compressor and 134A if I'm not happy.

[jschaible]

Just a note here that I replaced the factory A6 compressor on my 69 Catalina with a new one from Alma Products, who continues to make these compressors on the original tooling. I had tried an S6 just prior for this and it experienced a bearing failure almost immediately, but this may also have been due to a sticking POA valve that I then got rebuilt and calibrated for R134A.

The Alma A6 has been running great for two summers now, tons of cooling power on R134A with a new condenser/evaporator in the system as well. I got it from Cold Hose in Ocala, FL: https://coldhose.com/