[miko]

I've seen a bunch of ads for "green" motor oil. What are people's thoughts on it? Is it just as good a product as regular motor oil? It seems to be recycled oil. I used to be afraid of recycled oil in the past, but I'm not sure why.

[Trulyvintage]

Grren Oil supposedly is better for your engine due to the base oil
being recycled (better for a base than crude)

That said, for my money - I would recommend you run Shell Rotella 15/40
intended for diesel engines

The advantages include higher cleaning - higher zinc content - better
contaminant suspension

Personally, I run Rotella with Marvel Mystery Oil in my truck


Jim

[Bluesugar]

I must say this about that!,..as many miles that you rack up on the road, I would without a doubt take your recommendation to the bank!!,..Be careful Jim on the road!

[Trulyvintage]

Originally Posted by Bluesugar

I must say this about that!,..as many miles that you rack up on the road, I would without a doubt take your recommendation to the bank!!,..Be careful Jim on the road!

Thank You Richard



Jim

[1969GTO]

the only Green oil I use is BRAD PENN

[nashcar]

Originally Posted by 1969GTO

the only Green oil I use is BRAD PENN

X2.

[goatnut]

ALL new motor oil has at least 50% recycled oil in with it. Most dont know this but has been going on for sometime now. Gov.mandate I believe.
I also run Brad Penn "The Green Oil" in my Goat and other old cars.

[77 Canamman]

Originally Posted by 1969GTO

the only Green oil I use is BRAD PENN

x4...

[Sirrotica]

If you want an engine to last the best way is to remove the dirt from it which all conventional oil filters fail miserably at. The way the manufacturers have designed the full flow filters they only remove some of the dirt and when the oil becomes saturated with fine particulate that the filter misses and continually recirculates it through the oiling system. The only way to get it out is to throw the dirty oil away.

Bypass filters will do much more for the health of your engine than the brand of oil your using. Just research it and you'll find that your factory full flow constantly return sub 30 micron dirt through the oiling system that wears parts and the only way to get it out is to keep changing oil. Better to change bypass filters and keep the oil.

It's much better to keep the oil clean and keep it in the engine where it belongs and save money in the process as well as assure you have no fine particulate circulating through the oiling system and slowly wearing the engine out.

A bypass filter is what anyone should be concerned about that wants the engine to live trouble free and a long life. It's much more important than the brand of oil your running as any of the top brands do a good job of keeping the parts moving. The recirculation of dirt is what causes engine problems.

[zeebo]

although i agree that there are certainly diff qualities of oil, the most important thing to remember is to get oil changes FREQUENTLY! every 3-4k change your oil and filter..your engine will last an extremely long time..even the best oil gets contaminated and begins to break down..no matter what oil or filter you run. (tho some are better than others)!

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by zeebo

although i agree that there are certainly diff qualities of oil, the most important thing to remember is to get oil changes FREQUENTLY! every 3-4k change your oil and filter..your engine will last an extremely long time..even the best oil gets contaminated and begins to break down..no matter what oil or filter you run. (tho some are better than others)!

That's not true, oil does not break down, the additive package does, but only if it is overworked which is what happens as it is overwhelmed with dirt that a full flow filter does not have the capacity in it's media to remove.

Your buying into the oil companies 3000 mile crap, instead of repeating what you've heard from oil and car manufacturers about oil changes do some research and you'll find oil doesn't break down and if you use a filter that actually removes the dirt instead of recirculating it. Your oil changes can be safely extended to 3 times as long (or longer if you sample it) and your actually removing the dirt that wears out an engine and wears out the additive package.

A full flow factory designed system is a compromise at best, it's only a marginal bit better than no filter at all. Think about having screens on your house made of chicken wire, It will keep birds out, but all the pests under an inch will pass right through, a full flow filter is just as effective.

You want clean oil and really minimize engine wear your answer is not a full flow filter system, a bypass system will keep the pesky stuff out of your oil the same as proper size screens will keep insects out of your house. So yes, there is a filter that will keep your oil analytically clean, you just have never tried one, or done research on the subject.

Bypass systems are capable of removing dirt the size of 1 micron, 30-40 times smaller than the best full flow filter. Any dirt larger than 5 microns is wearing the metal out in the engine and your filter is only capable of 30 microns (at best), most full flows are around 50 microns.

Filtering efficiency of a bypass filter is filtering every drop of oil that enters it to to a 1 micron size piece of dirt. A cellulose bypass filter will also remove up to 6 ounces of water from condensation which will form acid in an engine, no full flow filter will remove any water from the oil.

The technology is there and easily affordable, you just need to be educated in how it works and why a full flow filter is at best a feeble attempt to remove dirt from engine oil and it becomes over saturated with dirt that a full flow can't remove. At that point you have 2 choices, leave the dirty oil in there to keep circulating through the engine and cause irreparable damage, or throw the oil away and replace it with clean oil and fresh additives because they have been depleted by the dirt not removed from a so called filter.

[zeebo]

i agree that factory oil filters dont catch nearly enough particulates as they should, but nothing will ever catch gasoline, moisture and combustion blowby that contaminates the oil and turns in into that sludgy, coke-like substance you see in engines where people never changed their oil. just like gasoline, oil breaks down over time and needs to be changed...even the best brake fluid absorbs moisture and will eventually need changing, no matter how much you spend on it..

many things affect oil, just like gas...time, moisture, heat, combustion by-products..they have made tremendous strides in lube technology just like in tire technology over the past 50 yrs, but there has never been an oil ive seen that says "you dont ever have to change oil again" oil...

[Jerry H.]

Back to the original 'green' oil. I've heard of another type of 'green' oil, not the Brad Penn type. This is an oil that is supposed to be made of all plant and animal oils and is completely environmental safe. You can pour it down the drain or on your grass. Supposedly it's run in the NASCAR nationwide series. Anyone else heard of it?

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Trulyvintage

Grren Oil supposedly is better for your engine due to the base oil
being recycled (better for a base than crude)

That said, for my money - I would recommend you run Shell Rotella 15/40
intended for diesel engines

The advantages include higher cleaning - higher zinc content - better
contaminant suspension

Personally, I run Rotella with Marvel Mystery Oil in my truck


Jim

X2>> << Said perfectly

[zeebo]

bought a 1994 buick century new (dont ask..lol) and drove it as a work car for 9 yrs..finally, at 210k, the trans goes..sold it to my cousin who is a mechanic, and he says, "ill put a trans in it, but im going thru the motor too..prolly needs bearings,etc" and i told him that i changed the oil every 3-4000 miles always, and that the motor is perfect. he found out i was right when he pulled the motor n took the bearing kit back to the store.. he said motor looks like it had 40k miles on it..no sludge, no excessive wear..nothing. just good old valvoline n ac delco filters...

[SRR]

Originally Posted by zeebo

bought a 1994 buick century new (dont ask..lol) and drove it as a work car for 9 yrs..finally, at 210k, the trans goes..sold it to my cousin who is a mechanic, and he says, "ill put a trans in it, but im going thru the motor too..prolly needs bearings,etc" and i told him that i changed the oil every 3-4000 miles always, and that the motor is perfect. he found out i was right when he pulled the motor n took the bearing kit back to the store.. he said motor looks like it had 40k miles on it..no sludge, no excessive wear..nothing. just good old valvoline n ac delco filters...

Imagine that!

The engine in the pic has 232,000 miles on it and receives oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles. This engine uses NO oil between changes. I think I'll stick with that schedule. The other engine was only done when the "monitor" told them to.

[GT182]

You couldn't pay me to run diesel oil in any of my vehicle's gas engines. Most truck drivers will tell you the same thing. I believe it says on the jug it's for diesel engines..... says nothing on use for gas engines. I tried using it back in the 80s, figuring I was saving money seeing it was free, and it ruined the 350 engine in my GMC van. Yeah, it ws taken apart by a very good engine guy and he gave me sh!t when I told him what I was using for oil.

[Stuckinda60s]

Nothing wrong with using any diesel rated oil that's rated for gasoline engines. The code on the top of the can tells it all.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by SRR

Imagine that!

The engine in the pic has 232,000 miles on it and receives oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles. This engine uses NO oil between changes. I think I'll stick with that schedule. The other engine was only done when the "monitor" told them to.

Oil change monitors are a true lie because none of them monitors your oil, they record driving habits from the ECM and be preselected parameters programmed by the car companies make an educated guess when you should change oil, the same people that rely on your car to wear out so they can sell you a new car and the ones that designed the full flow so called filter that removes almost nothing from the oil.

Evidence of that shows up at around 3000 miles when the oil can no longer be kept clean because of the solids not being removed. Then you throw the oil and solids out replace the oil screen called a filter and start the process all over again. If you don't do that the picture of the engine with dirt in it happens.............Imagine that

The perpetuated chain that does little good and wastes time and money, A real filter can change the picture drastically. Education is your friend and education won't come from car, oil, or filter companies. Look up bypass filtration and become educated in something that really does filter oil, not just have the name filter on a can of pleated paper. Much better alternatives out there than full flow filters.

[Sirrotica]

i agree that factory oil filters dont catch nearly enough particulates as they should, but nothing will ever catch gasoline,

That's true nothing will, however the light aromatics in gasoline vaporize when the oil is heated to operating temperature. If your getting any amount of gasoline in your oil you have a problem that needs repaired.

moisture and combustion blowby that contaminates the oil and turns in into that sludgy, coke-like substance you see in engines where people never changed their oil. just like gasoline, oil breaks down over time and needs to be changed...

As I said previously oil doesn't break down as long as it's not overheated, it becomes dirty with solids, remove the solids and there is nothing to make sludge. Sludge is made when the amount of solids can not be any longer suspended in the oil and they start depositing on the insides of the engine. Moisture can be taken out with a cellulose bypass filter and when it is acid will no longer form, water is a component of acids. Gasoline and oil are not the same oil doesn't evaporate and comparing the two is hardly worth writing it down, an apples and oranges comparison.

even the best brake fluid absorbs moisture and will eventually need changing, no matter how much you spend on it..

Brake fluid is largely based on alcohol which will mix with water and has a natural propensity to draw moisture from the air. Oil does not mix with water and has no ability to draw moisture from the air. Another apples and oranges comparison that has absolutely no relevance to motor oil.

many things affect oil, just like gas...time, moisture, heat, combustion by-products..they have made tremendous strides in lube technology just like in tire technology over the past 50 yrs, but there has never been an oil ive seen that says "you dont ever have to change oil again" oil...

Gasoline should not be in your engine oil, if it is you have a mechanical problem no amount of oil or filters will solve.

Moisture can and will be removed by a cellulose bypass filter.

Heat will not effect the molecular structure of oil as long as it is not in excess.

Combustion by products are again solids which your full flow filter can not remove, a by pass filter can and will certainly remove solids to 1 micron, 1 micron and under are considered benign and won't harm an engine.

I never claimed "You'll never have to change oil again", I did say you can safely extend oil changes to 3 times your current rate with a bypass filter (longer if you do analysis)

People actually think that a full flow filter is making the oil safe and clean, if it did either of those things it wouldn't become saturated with solids and have to be removed to keep the engine clean. Education about bypass filtration will show you how inferior that can that screws on to the engine really is and you could go 3000 miles if it was an empty shell just as easily with nothing in it. Early engines had no filters at all and went 1000 miles with absolutely no filter. Given the advances in oil technology you could do away with your full flow filter and get results very close to using one changing oil at 3000 miles. It's leaving a good percentage of the dirt in the oil anyway, not having one whatsoever would be close to the same results...........

I have much more experience with cars and engines than you do and have educated myself to how worthless the can with 2 feet of pleated paper really is. Over 40 years I made my living as a mechanic and raced stock cars as a hobby. I feel well qualified to make the statements I have made. You can recite whatever rhetoric you have gleaned about motor oil and full flow filters and it can be easily poked full of holes by evidence. Full flow filters are really a farce and cannot clean oil because of the priority they have to lubricate internal engine parts.

A bypass filter is on a completely separate circuit and only cleans oil and returns it back to the crankcase, the only priority it has is to clean the oil at a rate that allows it to remove dirt thoroughly and completely. It has nothing to do with keeping oil to the internally oiled engine parts like a full flow must, which is the huge compromise made in it's design and the reason it can't filter anything of real magnitude.