[8LUG]

Deadhead, in your picture, do you have non-power brakes? could it be cars with power brakes, like mine get there vacuum from the rear of the carb to feed the booster and the dist. advance also the dash pot on automatic cars , and the reg. brake cars get the vacuum from the front of the carb , like your picture. just a thought. John

[Ziggy]

Guys,

I believe this is a question whether you have ported (source = carb) or non ported (source=manifold) advance. This was a lot of discussion back in 2001 and 2005 (search for "ported advance"). From one of the posters back then, they indicated:

There were three types of AFB's used in the '63 fullsize.
3326A (red tag) used on Roto's = The spark port in the throttle body is plugged to area below throttle valve but drilled in area opposite throttle valve as it is seated in bore so that when the valve is closed, so is the hole. The throttle return check vacuum is taken from the back of the carb.
3300SA (yellow tag) used on Super hydra-Matic = Distributer vacuum and throttle return check vacuum are taken from the back of the carb.
34795 (black tag) used on manual trans = has full vacuum advance and no return check

The most notable differences in the first two carbs is on the bottom of the carb. Flip the carb over on look at the primary side. There is a small hole towards the front of the carb. If it is plugged, you have the right one, make sure your vacuum is hooked up the this port.
The reason for this is because cars equipped with the Roto's do not have distributer vacuum at idle, but the Super and the manual trannies utilize full advance at idle.


By the way, has anyone heard from Pitts64 (Jeff) recently...I haven't seen any posts from him lately. I hope everything is OK.

[65WJ]

Originally Posted by mike nixon

Hope the aftermath's nothing serious.

I have to ask, You trying to compete with Patrick?

I pray he is not, I would not wish this on anyone.
Ron take it easy if things do not feel right get them checked.

patrick
ps Friday was the one year anniversery.

[65WJ]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

By the way, has anyone heard from Pitts64 (Jeff) recently...I haven't seen any posts from him lately. I hope everything is OK.

I believe he was banned from py. He is on POCI forum

patrick

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

Guys,

I believe this is a question whether you have ported (source = carb) or non ported (source=manifold) advance. This was a lot of discussion back in 2001 and 2005 (search for "ported advance"). From one of the posters back then, they indicated:

There were three types of AFB's used in the '63 fullsize.
3326A (red tag) used on Roto's = The spark port in the throttle body is plugged to area below throttle valve but drilled in area opposite throttle valve as it is seated in bore so that when the valve is closed, so is the hole. The throttle return check vacuum is taken from the back of the carb.
3300SA (yellow tag) used on Super hydra-Matic = Distributer vacuum and throttle return check vacuum are taken from the back of the carb.
34795 (black tag) used on manual trans = has full vacuum advance and no return check

The most notable differences in the first two carbs is on the bottom of the carb. Flip the carb over on look at the primary side. There is a small hole towards the front of the carb. If it is plugged, you have the right one, make sure your vacuum is hooked up the this port.
The reason for this is because cars equipped with the Roto's do not have distributer vacuum at idle, but the Super and the manual trannies utilize full advance at idle.


By the way, has anyone heard from Pitts64 (Jeff) recently...I haven't seen any posts from him lately. I hope everything is OK.

Ziggy,

I just read these posts from way back when. I am still confused as to which is the ported and not ported Vac source on my carb. or if it has both. And, to clarify - unported would be continuous vacuum to the advance (rear) right?
I have a 3326S carb (A/C with roto) car. The advance is taken from the front via metal tube in question and the throttle return is from rear. After reading, I have a couple of other questions. Does this mean that the cars have different vacuum advances (& distributors?) depending upon the trans.? I am wondering if this might be part of my overheating issue. Might need to change to the correct advance set-up. Or... would simply switching the advance to the rear port on this carb accomplish the same thing?

One of the threads that comes up with that search indicates that the person was able to achieve more timing with a different Vac. source, which could easily aid in solving overheating issues.

Would also not mind getting rid of the dashpot and that nutty hand bent line that started all this. The less vacuum related items the better!

Sorry for hijacking this thread 8-lug. I do have power brakes also. So, you have no vac sources off the front of your carb.? You win the 'so clean you could eat off it' engine award!

[cheese country GP]

Deadhead, You've got the same set up I do on my '62 GP. Slim Jim auto, AC, 3326 carb with ported advance. The vacum taken from the front of the carb is ported & the dist advance come's alive only when the throttle is blipped. The other carb's listed are full advance off the back of the carb or from the intake manifold. I don't have a dashpot on my GP & never did in the 15 year's I've owned it. Run's just fine without it. Have only had one instance of over heating in all that time & it was a 100 degree day & I'd just run the dicken's out of on the highway. Expected it would boil a bit after I got home. Spit out maybe a 1/2 quart & that was it. Keep fresh 'stat in it & well tuned so that might help. Also make sure the heat riser is working well. That'll cause overheating too.
The vacum off the back of the carb is used for power brake's/vacum canister & to operate the heater/AC control's. I think as long as you have the slim jim, you'll need the ported vacum advance. The carzy bent vacum line is something I don't like either but don't have much choice. If you look in the shop manual it'll show the small plug on the bottom of the carb that's plugged on the 3326 carb required for the slim jim tranny. I believe Ziggy mentioned that before in one of his post's. The four speed hydromatic & stick need constant vacum so I assume the dist is different to allow for a more advance at idle.

[Deadhead]

Cheese-
Thanks for the comparisson. There are not many original set-ups with this exact combination that I have seen. I am always on the lookout.

I converted to a 4 speed & never thought of this when I did. That is why I wonder if I can just switch the advance Vac source location. That would eliminate metal tube & dashpot. I think I will try to run it with the rear Vac source & see what happens.

[cheese country GP]

Deadhead, Didn't realize you'd converted your car to a four speed. In that case you can use the 3326 or either of the other two carb's as long as the plug on the bottom of the carb is open(check the shop manual for what the plug look's like & it's location). Plug the front vacum advance port & don't bother with the snaky vacum advance tube. Just use the vacum advance off the back of the carb or the manifold, take the dashpot off & enjoy. Never did see any difference using the dashpot or not using it. Seemed to run equally well both way's. If you've got the heat riser in the right hand exahust manifold, that need's to work though. Some guy's take the butterfly out altogether but if it's still inside & stuck, that'll affect the overheating & eventually can damage your engine(burnt valve's).

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by cheese country GP

If you've got the heat riser in the right hand exahust manifold, that need's to work though. Some guy's take the butterfly out altogether but if it's still inside & stuck, that'll affect the overheating & eventually can damage your engine(burnt valve's).

Mine appears to have been tacked open. I tried to figure a way to just remove the entire thing when I had it off, but looked like it required cast iron welding to close the holes. Hard to do & not worth it. Thanks for all the tips. I need them.

I think that front port is a plumbing thread. I have a brass plug but thought I needed that extra port, which meant finding the fitting with the nipple on it. Hard to come by.

[cheese country GP]

Deadhead, The plug you'll need for the front of the carb can be bought at any hardware store. It's just a typical 1/4" pipe plug. Brass work's best but steel will seal it too. If anyone need's a plug with the nipple on it, just buy a brass plug & drill a hole in it. Then go the local hobby shop & buy a brass tube, cut off a piece & solder it in the hole. Might not be original but it'll work.
The heat riser removal can be a problem given it's cast into the manifold. Ya did good just making sure it's open all the time. Make's for a bit longer warm up but given the kind of driving most of us do, not a big deal. As long as it's open, that's what's important. A closed heat riser can damage an engine. A lot of the guy's year's ago used to just wire it open with the thinking it held back on performance. Took the spring's off & wire tied the counterweight open. Didn't work too good for daily driver's in the winter time here in the snow & cold. Good luck.

[CarlP]

Originally Posted by Deadhead

Mine appears to have been tacked open. I tried to figure a way to just remove the entire thing when I had it off, but looked like it required cast iron welding to close the holes. Hard to do & not worth it. Thanks for all the tips. I need them.

I think that front port is a plumbing thread. I have a brass plug but thought I needed that extra port, which meant finding the fitting with the nipple on it. Hard to come by.

I know this thread is 3 years old, but how do I know if the heat riser is open or closed? I just came across that thing when changing the oil filter. When I am underneath the car do I want to push the counter weight all the way up or all the way down to open? Its not that easy to even see whats going on with the spring deal on the other side, but I can see the spring isnt connected to anything and about as rusted as it can get before disintegrating. Does anybody know where I can get replacement parts and maybe some directions with pictures as to how to make this thing work correctly?

[mike nixon]

Carl there was a pin originally that the spring seated against. It probably rusted off. Personally I remove the valve on drivers and tap and plug the shaft hole.

Mike

[Deadhead]

Yeah, I should have done what Mike said, but could not figure a quick way to do it.

The only way I know to answer your ? is if you have duals and can put your hand over the pipe. Maybe a single at the 'Y' you could feel the heat.

Many are tacked open.