[4dblnkldude]

A friend and I have a 455 that was previously built by a "professional". After some issues we were doing well with it in the 11.60's. Eventually it popped a rocker, damaged the stud and push rod, then the lifter. We were going to do just the top end with the butler 248/254/112 hyd roller cam, 330 cfm wideports, northwind, and the o ring intake extender. Well that got thrown out the window when we took off the e heads. In two bores there are two deep scratches so the engine needs to be bored out for sure. So now were thinking a rather large solid roller and install solid roller springs on the new hi ports.

We have the high ports, 1 7/8 dougs headers, intake, block, crank, and so on. To keep it budget friendy we are keeping the crank. I and hom have never done a solid roller. Looking for some suggestions there as far as sizing. Car is a 70 lemans with a turbo 400 prepped very nicely. Race weight is #3600 with him in it. We will be using a 950 4150 carb. The goal is deep 10's, like 10.50's. A cage is going in shortly. Any advice on cam?

[Johnny406]

Going to need compression, gears/tire size, converter etc to really get a good picture. I'd talk with either Paul Knippens or Randy Repp (Pontiacspeedshop.com) for their recommendations. Randy works with Howard's Cams and can get you something custom made. Paul may very well have something...

[steve25]

What changes are you going to make the car 60 ft better then it was when running 11.60?

[Skip Fix]

Any work on the High ports or as cast?

[Dragncar]

When selecting a SR cam for a Pontiac block, first thing, Install Megga Brace. Not the KRE one.
When you look at a potential cam subtract the advertised duration from the @ .050 duration. You do not want anything less than 32 for a stock block.
Better yet, 34-36.
A cam lobe I KNOW will run forever in a stock 455 is one based off the old UD .4179 lobe.

I spoke with Tim G at Bullet and this was the biggest cam I was comfortable running. I know some guys get away with a more aggressive cam in a stock block. Not worth the risk IMO.

If you called Tim at Bullet and had him work up a cam using that .4179 lobe based off the rest of your combo I know it will get you below 10.50s with your High Ports Its known for being gentle. Guys run it in sbcs and with their lightweight valve train they can do it with really low spring pressure.
High spring pressure and a aggressive lobe it what kills stock Pontiac blocks.

[4dblnkldude]

Johnny the car has 28x10.5 pretty soft street slick I think M&H. It has a ford 9" with 390's, convertor is 3600 flashes at 5000.

Steve, we only got 15 passes and played with tire pressure obviously and rear drag shocks. We did box the lowers.

Skip as cast 80cc high ports.

Dragncar. We are putting a mega brace in it. Good advice! Thats pretty radical in my mind as far as that card you posted. Weve been looking at Lunatis, they have a 106 lobe sep.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by 4dblnkldude

Johnny the car has 28x10.5 pretty soft street slick I think M&H. It has a ford 9" with 390's, convertor is 3600 flashes at 5000.

Steve, we only got 15 passes and played with tire pressure obviously and rear drag shocks. We did box the lowers.

Skip as cast 80cc high ports.

Dragncar. We are putting a mega brace in it. Good advice! Thats pretty radical in my mind as far as that card you posted. Weve been looking at Lunatis, they have a 106 lobe sep.

IMO you are going to want a cam in the 260s as far as intake duration. I am telling you, call Tim Goolsby and have him work you up a cam on that .4179 lobe. It a big time proven lobe on stock Pontiac blocks.
I would not run a 106 cam with High Ports. My UD cam with that I ran for so long was on a 106. But that was with iron heads that flowed like 260cfm at best. You want tight lobe centers when you are trying to squeeze a crappy head. The idle on a 106 cam is pretty rough.
But you have good heads so you want it at least a 110. I would go 112
The cam I posted is on a 112 with a intensity number of 34 so its safe in a stock block.
I would not even think about a roller in the 250s for a 455 that is mostly strip. 250s is a street cam IMO.

[prostreet64]

I have a similar combo in my 463 stroker. KRE 325 d-ports, northwind intake, Quickfuel 950, Lunati solid roller 262/270 . C.R. 10.5:1. Still using 1&3/4 headers until I can afford 1&7/8. I have the Progression HEI distributor which has been a big help in cleaning up the idle quality as well as unlimited timing curves. Anyway car has gone 10.72 @ 126 with little to no tuning and that was in the heat. You should have no problem getting into the 10.50s with the combo you are putting together. Good luck.

[AG]

My race car is about 50# lighter than your car and goes 10.01 with the cam in my sig. My heads flow 330 cfm, use a victor/dominator and my converter flashes to 5000 rpm. You should have no issue getting to 10.5.

[4dblnkldude]

Thanks guys.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by 4dblnkldude

A friend and I have a 455 that was previously built by a "professional". After some issues we were doing well with it in the 11.60's. Eventually it popped a rocker, damaged the stud and push rod, then the lifter. We were going to do just the top end with the butler 248/254/112 hyd roller cam, 330 cfm wideports, northwind, and the o ring intake extender. Well that got thrown out the window when we took off the e heads. In two bores there are two deep scratches so the engine needs to be bored out for sure. So now were thinking a rather large solid roller and install solid roller springs on the new hi ports.

We have the high ports, 1 7/8 dougs headers, intake, block, crank, and so on. To keep it budget friendy we are keeping the crank. I and hom have never done a solid roller. Looking for some suggestions there as far as sizing. Car is a 70 lemans with a turbo 400 prepped very nicely. Race weight is #3600 with him in it. We will be using a 950 4150 carb. The goal is deep 10's, like 10.50's. A cage is going in shortly. Any advice on cam?

What is your CR?

Stan

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

When selecting a SR cam for a Pontiac block, first thing, Install Megga Brace. Not the KRE one.
When you look at a potential cam subtract the advertised duration from the @ .050 duration. You do not want anything less than 32 for a stock block.
Better yet, 34-36.
A cam lobe I KNOW will run forever in a stock 455 is one based off the old UD .4179 lobe.

I spoke with Tim G at Bullet and this was the biggest cam I was comfortable running. I know some guys get away with a more aggressive cam in a stock block. Not worth the risk IMO.

If you called Tim at Bullet and had him work up a cam using that .4179 lobe based off the rest of your combo I know it will get you below 10.50s with your High Ports Its known for being gentle. Guys run it in sbcs and with their lightweight valve train they can do it with really low spring pressure.
High spring pressure and a aggressive lobe it what kills stock Pontiac blocks.

Why not the KRE brace. Do you think one is better then the other?

GT

[Dragncar]

The KRE brace requires you to drill and tap holes for 5/15 bolts right on top of your cam bearing bosses. I do not like that. Also, it only "pulls down from the top". The SD brace sandwiches the lifter bores with the aluminum brace on top, fitted steel plate on bottom.
It works so well you need to be careful fitting it. It will shrink your lifter bores if you tighten the 3/8" grade 8 bolts too much. Put a lifter in the bores and make sure you have clearance while installing.
No way will that KRE brace ever effect the lifter bores like the SD brace. I have one and the only time it ever might get used if I ever decide to weld it in a .060 over 67 400 block I have. Needs to be a block I would not lose sleep if it cracked while welding. If it works I might end up with a strong factory block. But its a ton of work.
SD brace is the best.

[Skip Fix]

I was just going to say if you had ported heads a 1 7/8 header might not cut it.

As a reference point my first E head 455 motor 320 cfm hand ported by KRE and a Torker II 850 DP had a 259/262 UD solid roller with .556/.556 weigh 3750 through mufflers ran 10.90s @ 124. A pretty mild SR fairly streetable-just would not pass the "sniffer" for emissions at idle but would at the load test! Actually 60 ft'd better than my bigger lighter IA Camaro!

[4dblnkldude]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

I was just going to say if you had ported heads a 1 7/8 header might not cut it.

As a reference point my first E head 455 motor 320 cfm hand ported by KRE and a Torker II 850 DP had a 259/262 UD solid roller with .556/.556 weigh 3750 through mufflers ran 10.90s @ 124. A pretty mild SR fairly streetable-just would not pass the "sniffer" for emissions at idle but would at the load test! Actually 60 ft'd better than my bigger lighter IA Camaro!

Wow that is awesome time! Guys, I think my friend is putting the cart before the horse here. We may need another block, it may need to go .060 over. We don't want to go there. Well know in a week or so.

[RJRjr]

My last motor was .060 over. 75 455 block. Ran it for years no problem. Ran 10.70-80's in a 3700 lb car. 260-266 .420 lobe solid roller. Has hundreds of runs on it ,allways ran cool. 370 gear. Ati.4600 8" converter. E heads. 1.5 rocker. Victor/950.1 7/8 dougs 3" exhaust.. wouldnt be afraid of .060. But should probably check wall thickness. I didn't.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

The KRE brace requires you to drill and tap holes for 5/15 bolts right on top of your cam bearing bosses. I do not like that. Also, it only "pulls down from the top". The SD brace sandwiches the lifter bores with the aluminum brace on top, fitted steel plate on bottom.
It works so well you need to be careful fitting it. It will shrink your lifter bores if you tighten the 3/8" grade 8 bolts too much. Put a lifter in the bores and make sure you have clearance while installing.
No way will that KRE brace ever effect the lifter bores like the SD brace. I have one and the only time it ever might get used if I ever decide to weld it in a .060 over 67 400 block I have. Needs to be a block I would not lose sleep if it cracked while welding. If it works I might end up with a strong factory block. But its a ton of work.
SD brace is the best.

Thanks for the info. I've only seen them in pictures and wasn't sure how
they were attacht. I'll have to try one now, next time at Norwalk I'll get one
from Butler.

GT