[Judgemint]

The rear framr rails on my 63 lemans convert are pretty much rusted out in the area where the rear swing arms bolt.. I am going to go with a conventional rear . I am thinking on clearing out all of the rear frame and making one out of 2x4 tubing and using coilovers/ladderbars. I am also wondering if a nova firebird or etc subframe would work to tie in to the tubing to make a full frame for this car. and then making my own floorpan anyone done anything like this or have any Ideas

[Judgemint]

The rear framr rails on my 63 lemans convert are pretty much rusted out in the area where the rear swing arms bolt.. I am going to go with a conventional rear . I am thinking on clearing out all of the rear frame and making one out of 2x4 tubing and using coilovers/ladderbars. I am also wondering if a nova firebird or etc subframe would work to tie in to the tubing to make a full frame for this car. and then making my own floorpan anyone done anything like this or have any Ideas

['ol Pinion head]

Judgement,
The front framerails jut out from under the 63's body then the engine crossmember bolts to it. The '62-67 Nova uses a different setup where everything (steel structure) unbolts from the body at the cowl. Really don't see a Heidts early Nova type set-up being an option, unless it was heavily modified. If your '63's front frame rails are solid, could work your ways back with a "backhalfed" chassis, retaining the front frame rails, spindles, & control arms & going with the nifty front disc brake set-up that PY'er Jim Linenberger has devised. Have never ran across an early 1st Gen subframe stubbed in, but it could be done.

Depending on the needs of the car (11 sec car, 8 sec car, or something in between), basically what rear suspension you desire, & how extensive the rust... all are going to contribute to the route to persue & the final price tag.
Getting the body up in the air & replacing the rear frame rails & rusted sheetmetal would cost some serious dough, if one is not equipped to do the metal work themself. If you were set on the factory rear frame rail, it would be a good option to spilce in the rails & rear floorpan from a better body.

Not sure what you are after for an end result, but if desire is for a tubbed car, might weigh the alternative of taking the car to local accomplished chassis builder, then follow up with nice tin work. Would expect a minimum of 3500 backhalf job & that is you supplying the rearend, rear shocks, etc. Hope to make some more head way on my '63's minitub & rear suspension work this summer.