[fiedlerh]

I mentioned a Tee under the assumption that you would be running a piping loop around the perimeter of the garage as discussed in the other thread. Then you would have a tee pointing up wherever you wanted a drop. Use a couple of 90°'s to loop it back down. A pipe loop still needs a drop at the low point with the tee pointing down along with a drain valve.

If you have a straight overhead run, then yes a 90° elbow is fine. If you don't have an air dryer, then you will want to terminate the drop with a filter/regulator. The filter bowl will help trap condensed moisture and needs to be drained once in a while, but many have a float vlave and drain automatically.

If you don't want to do that, then put a tee in the vertical drop at your workbench with your air fitting sticking out and a "dead leg" with a valve (X) pointing at the ground. This way you can drain the water out as needed:
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╠═
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║
X
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[scotzz]

Originally Posted by fiedlerh

I mentioned a Tee under the assumption that you would be running a piping loop around the perimeter of the garage as discussed in the other thread. Then you would have a tee pointing up wherever you wanted a drop. Use a couple of 90°'s to loop it back down. A pipe loop still needs a drop at the low point with the tee pointing down along with a drain valve.

If you have a straight overhead run, then yes a 90° elbow is fine. If you don't have an air dryer, then you will want to terminate the drop with a filter/regulator. The filter bowl will help trap condensed moisture and needs to be drained once in a while, but many have a float vlave and drain automatically.

If you don't want to do that, then put a tee in the vertical drop at your workbench with your air fitting sticking out and a "dead leg" with a valve (X) pointing at the ground. This way you can drain the water out as needed:
║
║
╠═
║
║
X
║

Using the sketch you made for a vertical drop at the workbench I am assuming that a filter/regulator would be placed just above the tee fitting and the "dead leg" would still be retained to drain excess condensation?

[69lm69gp]

Try This.

[chuckmnv]

Thanx, 69lm69gp. That's a good jumping-off start for my system.
cm

[scotzz]

Originally Posted by 69lm69gp

Try This.

thanks...................that answers my question..............

[fiedlerh]

╠═
The thingy pointing to the right is where you would mount your filter/regulator. Usually at benchtop height or what ever is convenient for you. You'll probably also want a pressure gauge and a Milton coupler for easy hookup of air tools.

That pdf diagram helps a lot! I disagree with using iron pipe though, unless you like rust in everything. Copper is less labor intensive to install as well and should last forever.

[69lm69gp]

chuckmnv, scotzz, Your wecome.

I used Type L copper. I have read that Type M still has twice the working pressure needed for your average compressed air system, however after comparing the wall thickness and since I will be using it for years to come I went with the Type L. Black pipe is much cheaper, but I know I how to sweat the copper pipe and I have never threaded pipe nor do I have the tools to do so.

[michaeld]

Originally Posted by scotzz

Does that mean that to use a "T" fitting from an overhead pipe when plumming a vertical drop instead of a 90 degree elbow? If so, why?

Scotzz,

Since we got the same compressor, I figured I'd share my setup with you.

Given the fact that I don't have a big, costly compressor, quite a bit of the last several posts detailing elaborate moisture filtering were kind of lost on me. I'm glad that people posted their know-how (because it will help future members doing searches on air compressor tips), but running 100' of copper pipe doesn't seem to be a feasible option for guys using a sub-$150 compressor for obvious reasons.

Here's what I did:

I bought an inline air filter/regulator (single unit), and - having learned from the expertise and experience of contributors to this thread - I did NOT attach the unit immediately to the compressor, but bought a short hose (about 3' long) and connected it to that hose (with that short hose connected to the compressor air line). Then I simply plug my line onto the other side of the air filter/regulator via quick connections.

I bought two hoses: a 50' hose and a 15' hose. The 50 footer is just more cumbersome than I figured I'd often need.

As per what I learned on this thread, I did not purchase an oiler unit, but will oil my tools individually before each use.

If I wanted to paint, I would use an in-line filter/drier. I would NOT get the moisture removal capability of the elaborate setups detailed on this thread, but I don't see myself doing that level of painting. If I did, I would have gone for the big-mamma compressor and gone to town.

[scotzz]

Originally Posted by 69lm69gp

chuckmnv, scotzz, Your wecome.

I used Type L copper. I have read that Type M still has twice the working pressure needed for your average compressed air system, however after comparing the wall thickness and since I will be using it for years to come I went with the Type L. Black pipe is much cheaper, but I know I how to sweat the copper pipe and I have never threaded pipe nor do I have the tools to do so.

69lm69gp..................yeah I am with you on this one............I can sweat copper pipe and I have also run black iron pipe for natural gas but it was with all pre-threaded pieces.............I'd just as soon go with copper since it is easy to work with and doesn't require any threading............I never knew that copper pipe came in two thickness......does Home Depot carry both?

[69lm69gp]

scotzz,

Home Depot does carry Type M and Type L copper. Here is a handy link to some copper information I found usefull:

http://www.copper.org/resources/pub_...e_handbook.pdf

michaeld,

Sorry to say but a 3 foot hose is functionaly no differant than attaching the water seperator directly to the compressor. The whole point of not mounting the water seperator on the compressor is to give the air time to cool off enough so that the water has time to condense. IMO absoutly dry air is only critical when painting or sandblasting, so don't get all wraped axel about getting all the water out of your system unless you are doing one of those two things. I encourage you to get creative. What I have posted here is by no mean the way it has to be done.

Here is one guy did to remove water(note posts # 4 and 5).

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/wate...light=moisture


Some more info:

http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

[fiedlerh]

Here's a project I'm working on this weekend. It's for our manufacturing facility, so it is more extensive than what you need at home. I still have to put in the automatic water drain system. It would be about the same system you would have for an auto repair shop business. The Sear compressor is a backup. For a business you need a backups (and bypasses) on critical components. For a small shop 1/2" air line would be plenty. The 1" airline shown serves future needs and stores a lot of air.