[Primitive Artist]

Originally Posted by David Holmberg

...I always wanted to put a 6cyl Porsche motor in my bug...

[cuz68]

A oo9 distortor will give you more hp also, I have a few parts laying around No floor pans tho, I do have a very nice 34-peck carb.

[Greg Reid]

I'm still in the learning curve cuz. Was reading about the 009 distributors last night but from what I read, it's kinda finicky for my tastes-
http://www.vw-resource.com/distributor_questions.html
I'm not familiar with the 34 peck carb?

[Greg Reid]

Did some looking. I think you must mean the 34PICT/3 carb.
http://www.vw-resource.com/carb.html#30

[bastard]

I expect that cuz' is referring to the stock 1 barrel carb. It is your best bet for fuel economy and trouble free operation on a stock engine. If he is offering to sell it, you should consider buying it.
Bosch 009 distributor works well if it's tuned correctly, but then so does the stock one. You have to adjust the carb and timing to match the 009. Also, the 009 takes a different set of points than the stocker, but it uses the same cap. Some people don't realize this and set them up wrong with the stock points then wonder why it bogs. If you install a Pertronix unit, you won't have to worry about points at all. The biggest visual difference is the 009 doesn't have vacuum advance and the stock one does. I never had any problem with Bosch parts on a Beetle, except for Bosch platinum plugs fouled quickly. You're better off with plain ol' Bosch Supers.
The main thing to remember about a Beetle is don't run it low on oil. They use an oil cooler in addition to the belt driven fan for air cooling. Low oil = less cooling = cracked heads and spun bearings. Also the valves need to be adjusted every time you change the oil (@ 3000 miles). The cork valve cover gaskets should be replaced every time you pull off the valve cover.
Like others here, I strongly recommend that you get some kind of service manual for it. It has info on stuff you really shouldn't guess. Things like rear brake drum castle nut torque value, belt adjustment, valve adjustment specs, etc. You may be money ahead to pull the engine and "fix" whatever wasn't done when it was rebuilt and seal all oil leaks.
Here is a picture of one I've been tinkering with the past couple of years. It isn't mine, but I am the only one that drives it.
1973 Wunderbug

I have replaced the front end, installed front disk brakes, replaced the engine, and chased a lot of electrical gremlins on this one. It has a 1776cc engine with a 009 distributor and 2 barrel Weber progressive carburetor. I wouldn't get another progressive after dealing with this one. It runs okay for what it is, but for the money you can get a lot more bang for the buck.
(o\l/o)

[JZD_Fan]

Pay close attention to those brakes!

I've never had an air cooled that did not leak oil.

[md1twal3]

1968 was the year of transition between the older rear and IRS. If I recall, the transaxle is a 1 year only.

My Dad still has a 73 Super and my brother has a 68. I used to be pretty heavy into the and still have a bunch of NOS german body parts in my attic. I have a pair of front quarters, a pair of doors and several 70's bumpers. Been hanging onto them for a project one day.

My brother just restored one for a friend of his. Did a bunch of sheetmetal work and got most of his metal from a VW reman place in IL. Can get the name if you would like.

Hot VW's and VW Trend magazines are all loaded with aftermarket suppliers. The ladies in the car pics aren't bad either. ;o)

Been keeping a pulse on a 63 Convertible that I know of. Needs pans, but the doors close solid, rockers are solid and the rest of the body is relatively solid. I can get it pretty cheap right now, but have enough irons in the fire. It'll be there when I'm ready!

BTW....Oil leak is usually one of the pushrod tubes or the filter access plate on the lower center of the engine. Get the Idiot book. I have a copy and if nothing else, it is dang entertaining!

[Pontiacmuscle]

Anyone ever seen one with the Rolls-Royce front ends?

[bastard]

Oil leak could also be from putting the wrong seals on the oil cooler adapter, or not replacing the old ones, or putting on new ones without taking out the old ones. You laugh, but I've found them like that.
The big glossy ads in the magazines don't necessarily mean that the magazine endorses the advertisers' products or services. Take GEX engines for example. If you believe their big nice ads with a swimsuit model, they are the best rebuilders out there. But this is not the case. They suck big time. Look at the Buyer and Seller Feedback section on The Samba before you spend any serious coin.
I've gotten good parts and service from Air Cooled .Net. They sell some used parts, so be sure to clarify what you are buying. That site and the Gene Berg site are very informative and you can trust what they tell you.

[Greg Reid]

bastard and the rest of you guys, we are on the same page. I've been devouring everything I can read on this thing. One of the best websites I've found is by a couple of guys who never met each other. Dave in the US and Rob in Australia are longtime VW enthusiasts with a lot of knowledge stored on the website. Plenty of info and step by step procedures on just about everything.
http://www.vw-resource.com/index.html
I found out about the carbs that cuz mentioned on that site. I have to see what carb is on my car right now. May already be a 34. Whatever it is, it's clean.
I did find that it has been converted to dual port heads so it may be a 1600cc and from what I understand, that mates best with the 34 as opposed to the 1500 single port engine that would have come with the original 31PICT carb...I think I remember that right..I know where to find the info though.
I have a 30 year old Hayne's manual from the time I had my first Beetle.
I do plan to get the "Idiot" book and the shop manual and the body manual.

I did find out about the importance of adjusting the valves. That's what I'm in the process of doing right now. After that, I'll check the timing and the carb setup.

I was seriously thinking of doing just what you suggest bastard...That is, pulling the engine and stopping all leaks, torque the head bolts, replace all exhaust gaskets, etc.
One thing I'm finding that I really like about the car is how simple it is. Almost like a big riding mower.

[PonchoV8]

I still have a 70 convertible in a million pieces in one of my garages. I installed a rear quarter in it and dropped the project. I used to drive it around the neighborhood every now and again, until I dug the driveway and retaining wall up.

My neighbor behind me used to work as a VW mechanic at a Florida dealership back in the early 80s. He told me they would sometimes take a customer's engine out and put it in a car that they raced--then return it the next day. When one of the mechanics would blow an engine in their personal car, three of four of them would go to a theatre parking lot and steal someone's engine while the person was watching a movie. He said they could have it out in about 11 minutes. Imagine coming out of a movie and finding your engine gone. No sex in the back seat that night David, but the owner did get screwed.

[Carl A]

My only bug story I remember was travelling on the highway in the pouring rain and cold and the wipers quit!!!
"Oh shoot my spare must of ran out"
"What"
"Wipers run off the air from the spare tire"
" So let me understand this, we have no wipers, no spare, on the highway in the rain what else can go wrong with a bug?"
"Hey turn on the heater we are starting to fog up"
"Can't do that"
" Why "
" Heater runs off the gas we might not have enough to get back to town"
" So let me understand this......"
" Oh relax we will make it oh so where do you want to go next weekend"
All I can say is that bug was alot of fun that car would allways get you where you wanted to go!!!!!!

[bastard]

Your old Haynes manual is going to be as much help as any other book you'll find.

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

One thing I'm finding that I really like about the car is how simple it is.

It was really a brilliant design concept. The idea was to build a car that everyone could afford to buy, and that anyone with even a little mechanical savvy could maintain with only basic tools. The more you drive it the more you will appreciate the "less is more" philosophy. The ride quality is amazing, especially for such a small car.

(o\l/o)
It's the windshield washer fluid reservoir that runs off the spare tire pressure. The wipers are electric. There is a cheap kit that includes a different reservoir and an electric fluid pump. I sourced a push button momentary switch from Radio Shack to operate it. I mounted it right next to the brake idiot light above the radio, it looks original.
And the optional auxilliary gasoline fired heaters were way overkill for any climate I've lived in. The stock heater boxes in all mine have worked well enough to make me sweat. If they don't, replacements are still available.
The neat trick for great heat is to mount a multi-speed fan either in or under the parcel tray and recirculate the already heated cabin air instead of always drawing in cold air for the heating system from the engine compartment. This also saves you from disconnecting the heater hoses off the fan box in the summer for better cooling.

[cuz68]

Originally Posted by bastard

I expect that cuz' is referring to the stock 1 barrel carb. It is your best bet for fuel economy and trouble free operation on a stock engine. If he is offering to sell it, you should consider buying it.
Bosch 009 distributor works well if it's tuned correctly, but then so does the stock one. You have to adjust the carb and timing to match the 009. Also, the 009 takes a different set of points than the stocker, but it uses the same cap. Some people don't realize this and set them up wrong with the stock points then wonder why it bogs. If you install a Pertronix unit, you won't have to worry about points at all. The biggest visual difference is the 009 doesn't have vacuum advance and the stock one does. I never had any problem with Bosch parts on a Beetle, except for Bosch platinum plugs fouled quickly. You're better off with plain ol' Bosch Supers.
The main thing to remember about a Beetle is don't run it low on oil. They use an oil cooler in addition to the belt driven fan for air cooling. Low oil = less cooling = cracked heads and spun bearings. Also the valves need to be adjusted every time you change the oil (@ 3000 miles). The cork valve cover gaskets should be replaced every time you pull off the valve cover.
Like others here, I strongly recommend that you get some kind of service manual for it. It has info on stuff you really shouldn't guess. Things like rear brake drum castle nut torque value, belt adjustment, valve adjustment specs, etc. You may be money ahead to pull the engine and "fix" whatever wasn't done when it was rebuilt and seal all oil leaks.
Here is a picture of one I've been tinkering with the past couple of years. It isn't mine, but I am the only one that drives it.
1973 Wunderbug

I have replaced the front end, installed front disk brakes, replaced the engine, and chased a lot of electrical gremlins on this one. It has a 1776cc engine with a 009 distributor and 2 barrel Weber progressive carburetor. I wouldn't get another progressive after dealing with this one. It runs okay for what it is, but for the money you can get a lot more bang for the buck.
(o\l/o)

You are right it has been a while,I rebilt the carb many years ago and never had it on the bug only one time, seems like my heads were too small at that time.

[Primitive Artist]

It is claimed that the inventor of the Beetle (Ferdinand Porsche) either started this Bohemian-made automobile or his idea got copied:

http://www.tatraplan.co.uk/



[img]http://www.tatraplan.co.uk/taraplan20.jpg[/img

[Primitive Artist]

Here, a '67 Tatra with rear-mounted, aluminum, air-cooled, overhead cam v-8:

http://www.film-autos.com/fundus/fah....php?fz_id=514







An older version:

...Built for Speed

In addition to its striking looks, the T87's mechanicals are, well, revolutionary. It's powered by a rear-mounted, aluminum, single overhead-cam, air-cooled V8, and with its four-speed transmission, the car is capable of 100 mph, which was quite a feat for a luxury car of the period, Lane says

http://www.partsandpeople.com/article/1632/

[Greg Reid]

Very interesting car Primitve. I'd never heard of it. Picture is kinda large though. Have to scroll side to side to read now.

[Greg Reid]

Alright...this thing is starting to give me fits now. Can't get a reliable idle out of it.
cuz, I pm'd you about that carb. Turns out the engine in mine is a '72, dual port 1600. Right now it has the 31 carb and from my readings on the subject, the 34 PICT was designed for the larger dual port heads.

[Primitive Artist]

Then, run the 34 millimeter variety.
The Weber/Motorcraft 2 bbls. were good, also and plentiful. The old Ford Pintos used to have the Motorcrafts which I preferred, because of their simplicity and thrift. I used to bolt them in place of a Stromberg (Opel GT) and in place of a Weber (Fiat, Renault, etc...) The bolt patterns are identicle. You'd have to spend some time with the linkages, though.
Anyway, a Weber/Motorcraft conversion was normal, back when there were plenty of Beetles still around. J.C. Whitney used to sell complete conversion kits or at least the manifolds

[bastard]

Does it have an alternator or generator on it? If it's an alternator, that could be a cause of idle fluctuation when it cycles. If you can, hook up a tach back where you can see it while you fiddle with the carb and verify the correct idle speed. They have an unusual sound and if you are used to a V8 grumble it is easy to guess wrong.
You are probably on the right track with ditching the smaller carb. If I were in your shoes, and I have been, metaphorically speaking, I would try to find the correct one for your application (34 PICT-3 or 4) and make sure it is in proper working order. There are several VW-specific vendors out there that will provide actual support for your exact set-up. I advise against using any bargain basement parts source. I know I have seen Samba forum members from Georgia talk about a local Bug shop. Do a search for "Georgia" on the Samba and see if you turn up any local salvage yards or VW parts retailers.
Speaking of proper working order, before I ever thought about setting a carb, I would check the basic tune up stuff first. Not that you haven't already, but with the off-topic filler it makes it hard to keep track. For the pictures that are too wide I use a Firefox extension called AdBlock Plus. 3 clicks and the picture goes away.
Make sure that the valves are adjusted and the ignition parts are all perfect. Mine have all been very finicky about ignition parts. Make sure all the clamps are tight on the rubber intake boots and fitted correctly or look for another vacuum leak source. And make absolutely sure the static timing is lined up with the notch on the distributor and the notch on the crank pulley. You said the carb is clean, does that mean inside? Are you sure there's no rusty floaties getting in there? Seems like I remember there being about 30 feet of vacuum hose used to ventilate the gas tank. If the vents are plugged or misrouted, that could make it act weird.
If you have verified all that, especially everything, then try setting the carb, or getting the correct one and setting it. It sounds like someone might have bought a 1600 long block and used some of the leftovers from the smaller engine. They can be rigged to run like that, but it isn't the best way to go about it. Even more reason to pull the engine and verify that you really have the correct stuff for a 1600, like the oil cooler, fan box, oil pump, tins, etc.
Not knowing would make me want to keep it within tow truck range.