[bob67firebird428]

http://www.mamotorworks.com/

http://www.volksrods.com/

http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw.htm...6K7&frame=6612

http://www.maggiolinoweb.it/old_beetle.html

[bob67firebird428]

http://www.superbeetles.com/Tech_talk/jan.htm

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...&search=Search

Here is the video i realy want , a how-to series on vw repair ....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bug-M...spagenameZWDVW
http://www.bugmevideo.com/

[Greg Reid]

Ok, you guys have given me some really good things to look at here. I spent a couple hours verifying top dead center, points and plugs, valve adjustment, etc.
I'm going to recheck everything. I have to idle it so high to get it to run that it's hard to get the timing verified.
I forgot to mention that I did find two vacuum leaks. One is the advance diaphragm, which is also stuck. I can suck air right through but I can't get it to move even when I try to force it.
I may go to the Pertronix ignition since that whole setup is only ten bucks more than the diaphragm alone. Thoughts?
I am going to pull the engine since a previous owner's idea of an 'ngine overhaul' just 7K miles ago apparently did not include fixing oil leaks or changing the rusted muffler.

Thanks guys, I'm determined to get this thing running right as it's a pretty solid project. Even the floor under the battery isn't rusted out.
Finding time is my main issue.

[bastard]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Ok, you guys have given me some really good things to look at here. I spent a couple hours verifying top dead center, points and plugs, valve adjustment, etc.
I'm going to recheck everything. I have to idle it so high to get it to run that it's hard to get the timing verified.

You need to verify the timing with the engine not running. That is the rudimentary first step to fixing your problem. Unless you have a degree pulley on it and you are verifying it with a timing light, lining up the notches is the only way to get the timing correct. If everything else was acting correctly, you could set it by ear or how it runs best. But since it isn't acting correctly for now, the only real way to get the timing exact is to line up the notches. If it has a degree pulley on it instead of the stock one start with about 9 to 12 initial or whatever the Haynes manual says. If the stock pulley only has 1 notch instead of 2, line up the crank pulley notch (at the top of the pulley) with the case centerline seam, and set the distributor on the notch on the distributor body, which should be pointing to #1 @ 5 o'clock. Timing set. Only then should you start to fiddle with the carb. Once you are absolutely positive the timing is set, adjust back to the "default" carb screw settings which should be in the Haynes manual. I used to be able to set the carb in the dark in my old '70 Baja Bug. That was a long time ago. I still have that screwdriver though.

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I forgot to mention that I did find two vacuum leaks. One is the advance diaphragm, which is also stuck. I can suck air right through but I can't get it to move even when I try to force it.
I may go to the Pertronix ignition since that whole setup is only ten bucks more than the diaphragm alone. Thoughts?

Just cap the vacuum nipple until you can get the advance replaced. And you didn't say where the other vacuum leak was, but it should obviously be sealed as well.
Yes, get the Pertronix, unless you just really like points. Email John at Air Cooled .Net (see previous post) and ask him which coil to use with that. He can set you up with what you need and you can trust him to not rip you off on the price. Check his feedback on the Samba forum. You may want to look into a complete kit with distributor, Pertronix unit, coil, and maybe even wires depending on how yours look. Email John.

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I am going to pull the engine since a previous owner's idea of an 'ngine overhaul' just 7K miles ago apparently did not include fixing oil leaks or changing the rusted muffler.

Thanks guys, I'm determined to get this thing running right as it's a pretty solid project. Even the floor under the battery isn't rusted out.
Finding time is my main issue.

There are several ways to get one to leak oil. Fixing the leaks usually means pulling the engine.
Get rid of the pea shooters and get a 4 into 1.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Back in the late 60's & early 70's i built quite a few engine and transaxles. Was a garage VW mechanic so to speak. Could change a clutch from the time it pulled up to the door till it was out the door in less then 45 minutes. Made good flat rate money. Had quite a few back then. Every other car on the road then was a bug.

Nice car until the tree huggers and safety laws made them dis-appear.

[Greg Reid]

bastard,
I did set the initial timing by the notches. I think the chain may be a little slack as true tdc doesn't have the rotor exactly on the mark, just close. Seems to have just a little slack in it.
I do need to recheck everthing though. Once I set the timing, I had a hard time starting it...which was something new.
I will check with aircooled .net on the ignition parts.
By the way, someone earlier mentioned the alternator vs. generator. Mine has a generator.
Dude, I wish you were my next door neighbor. My ponchos AND my bug would be running like a charm now I think.

[Stuart]

Working on the generator on a Bug is a big pain, at least when the engine is still in the car. I had to replace the generator in mine one time, in the middle of winter when it was below zero. After I got the new one in I found out it was defective, so I had to go through the whole ordeal a second time after I got another one.

[Primitive Artist]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

bastard, I think the chain may be a little slack as true tdc doesn't have the rotor exactly on the mark...

No chains in a Bug engine. Might be a little slop in the gears though.
Make sure you're not getting a vaccuum leak at the throttle body bushing

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Primitive Artist

No chains in a Bug engine. Might be a little slop in the gears though.
Make sure you're not getting a vaccuum leak at the throttle body bushing

Just learned something new already. That's one more reason to go ahead with the pertronix unit I think. Might cure the slop up.
I haven't had a chance to run it since fixing the second leak...which was on the main intake runner, right below the carb. Battery seems to be dead...*See below...

Originally Posted by Stuart

Working on the generator on a Bug is a big pain,

*I may have a bad generator, voltage regulator or starter.... After doing all the valve adjust, timing set stuff, the thing would hardly turn over. Naturally, I thought I had the timing way out of whack but it occured to me later that a small light on the speedo has stayed on the entire time I've run it. Next time I get it running, I'll check voltage output.

[BajaGTO]

I have an engine cover. I am not sure exactly what to call it. It goes on the back of the car like a trunk, but covers the engine like a hood.

I also have one or 2 doors. I believe they are in decent condition. I am not sure what the asking price on this stuff is, but I'll make you a deal.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by BajaGTO

I have an engine cover. I am not sure exactly what to call it. It goes on the back of the car like a trunk, but covers the engine like a hood.

I also have one or 2 doors. I believe they are in decent condition. I am not sure what the asking price on this stuff is, but I'll make you a deal.

Body is in real good condition on this car. I'd be tempted on the doors if the glass and seals were exceptionally good. Most likely though, it' be cheaper to replace the fuzzies and seals on mine than to buy your doors, ship them and paint them..
The car is actually pretty original. I finally got the hood open. Stupid me, I did not remember that these cars had a pull cable under the dash...8^O
Once I got it open, I saw that it had the original 4-ply whitewall spare. Pretty good tread on it too...

[Greg Reid]

Here's the big news though...I finally got this car purring like a kitten.
That was the main one of a combination of several problems that were haunting me since this purchase...

1. The aforementioned vacuum leaks. 3 of them..all stopped now. I was disappointed though that it still would not idle very low afterwards...

2.The battery went dead right after I adjusted the timing, making me think I'd screwed the timing up because it was dragging. I replaced the voltage regulator and it's charging now. (I had wondered what that little faded light on the speedo was trying to tell me...lol)

3. During the time I was waiting for the voltage regulator, I decided to hook up the electric choke and the throttle positioning solenoid....which is apparently not as much like the Pontiac idle stop solenoid as I thought. .... Put the voltage regulator on today and was very pleasantly surprised at how well it ran. I was able to idle it down to where it was just ticking over and it still did not go dead.
Apparenty, that throttle positioning solenoid has a huge affect on the idle. I unplugged it and it loaded up and went dead immediately.

4. I also found out what the 'whumpity-whump' sound from the floor tunnel was. I got a sick feeling the first day I drove the car when it wouldn't idle...then, during the coast after it died...I'd hear that noise from the tunnel. I removed the right rear drum and voila... the e-brake cable was flopping around indside the drum and telegraphing the noise up the tunnel.

5. I found the main source of the oil leaks. 3 of the pushrod tubes are leaking pretty good. I think the main crank seal is leaking a bit too...or may be the oil cooler...but the vast majority of it is coming from the pushrod tubes.

Feeling pretty good about the bug right now.

[Primitive Artist]

Adjusting that carburetor is a procedure. You have to adjust 1 screw before you do the other. One adjusts bypass air for idle speed and the other the gasoline flow. I forget which one you should screw first

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Primitive Artist

Adjusting that carburetor is a procedure. You have to adjust 1 screw before you do the other. One adjusts bypass air for idle speed and the other the gasoline flow. I forget which one you should screw first

Yeah, I found that procedure a while back and followed it. None of it worked very well without power to the solenoid. Proper name for it is Idle Cutoff Valve/Solenoid.

Apparently, that thing does more than shut off airflow when power is off.
It won't idle at all below 1200 or so RPM without it and the volume control screw (fuel flow screw you mentioned) has NO effect when there is no power to solenoid.

[Primitive Artist]

[Greg Reid]

In the meanwhile, the internet is a wonderful thing.
The information that the engine would never idle properly without the Idle Cutoff Solenoid was on one of the first sites I linked to in this thread....I just didn't notice it until after I'd found it out on my own...lol

...Also make sure that this solenoid is screwed into the carby snuggly, and not rattling loose....and replace the solenoid if required - if it's not working, you won't get a proper idle, and you'll get rough running at traffic speeds too....

[Primitive Artist]

Those solenoids tended to work themselves loose. You could remove it altogether and cap it. Problem is: The engine might diesel, before shut-off.
You could have fun with a capped carbouretor, by turning off the ignition, pumping the gas while the clutch is still engaged, peferably in a lower gear, then turn the ignition, suddenly, back on.
I drove a Volvo Amazon, in Sweden, for some guys who didn't have a licence. We had to drive some kilometers to visit this one guy's brother in juvie. On the way, we would pass farms where horses were grazing. The Amazon had a slight exhaust leak, anyway. I'd do that pumping number to get the air-fuel mixture into the exhaust. If you time it right, it'll backfire almost as loud as an M-80. I'd get those horses moving, in no time flat.
I had fun passing up those car-pulled trailers specialy built for transporting horses. I'd do my backfire routine and watched the trailer bob from side to side, from the rear view mirror. I wonder how hard the driver had to fight that wheel. The kid's dad would sit behind me and would always get pi$$t when I did that. He'd yell. But, I didn't care. The fun was worth it

[mitchgto]

Love the old bugs. Was thinking about looking for a pre 60's VW but am also thinking about a wwii willys jeep....maybe I should get both????

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by mitchgto

Love the old bugs. Was thinking about looking for a pre 60's VW but am also thinking about a wwii willys jeep....maybe I should get both????

Why not?
I actually looked briefly at those too...but I know so very, very little about them and the ones I looked at were far and few between. I'd love to have one though and it'd be great where I live...which is on a dirt road in the woods.

[Lidpainter]

I've got a '56 Oval and I am chopping up a '62 rag parts car. As somebody already mentioned, http://www.thesamba.com is THE place you need to go for all your technical questions and parts hunting.