[GT182]

I got to checking the 4187 this morning and I think it can be turned to the left so the cam tube is on the left side. Did a lot of matching things up with the 3196 and it looks real close to what the correct install should be. Hopefully it doesn't matter how these hubs are turned... so long as it works.

Only thing is there is about a 1/4" or less difference in the position for the cam tube that comes up for the contact. Even the hub cover should be ok to turn to match things up.

As soon as I find my steering wheel puller I'll get to play with this. I 'think' someone borrowed it and never brought it back.... and he's in Nebraska. Hopefully tho it's buried someplace in the garage.

[george kujanski]

Well I got the wheel installed today. First I don't know what switch is in there...check the pic to see if you guys recognize which it is.

Some complaints: see the pic with the nylon tube and the wire. The instructions say if you don't have the tube, buy one from GM and it gives the part number. I used the tube from the OEM wheel, but I had to cut the horn switch wires to get the tube; I would rather have left the old wheel intact. Grant should supply the tube, in my opinion.

The instructions say to slide a supplied metal sleeve over the shaft on top of the cancel cam... the OEM wheel had a spring in that location; the instructions say nothing about the spring. It doesn't make sense to me; I reused the spring and didn't use the sleeve/spacer.

Managed to get everything else together, but one last issue.....I bought a horn button with the Pontiac logo instead of the supplied Grant horn button. The horn contact ring has 3 little scallops around the edge, 120 degrees apart, the horn button has 3 little dimples near the bottom edge. You are supposed to insert the button over the contact ring such that the dimples match the scallops, then rotate the button 1/2' inch or so either way to lock it in place.

Guess what??? using the Pontiac button it inserts perfectly with the arrow straight up, but you need to rotate it to lock it in place, then the arrow is cockeyed. The pic shows it installed upside down, at least it won't fall off!

Of course, the Grant button fits perfectly with the logo straight up!

Pix: directional sig switch, cancel cam, showing the cancelling ribs relative to the horn tube, the plastic tube and wire whcih i had to scavenge from my OEM wheel, the horn wire routing on the hub, and finally, the completed installation, with the Pontiac logo upside down.

They only had 46 years to get it right.........and still didn't....and for cryin' out loud, add the plastic tube to the kit, And what is the metal sleeve supposed to do?????? Are you supposed to use the OEM spring?????

I'm disappointed...knowing what I know now, I would choose a different mfgr next time. It looks OK, xcept for the upside down logo....

[Ben M.]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

They only had 46 years to get it right.........and still didn't....and for cryin' out loud, add the plastic tube to the kit, And what is the metal sleeve supposed to do?????? Are you supposed to use the OEM spring?????

I'm disappointed...knowing what I know now, I would choose a different mfgr next time. It looks OK, xcept for the upside down logo....

After reading about this, I've got a serious reconsideration about using or recommending their products again. It shouldn't be that difficult or troublesome to get installed - should take 45 minutes tops and all parts should be there (AND correct). Kind of a shame.

[Old Goat 67]

That's a Delco George.

The wheel does look good though, except for the upside down deal!

Just an afterthought... can you apply low heat to the backside of the center cap and release the emblem to remove & rotate it?

Thanks for the pictures.

Charles

[george kujanski]

The emblem is affixed to the front, probably with an adhesive, so it may come loose with some heat, but I don`t want to damage it, either.

I think I`ll try moving the dimples around, they are below normal view. Centerpunch to make new ones, visegrips to flatten the existing ones should do it.

Shouldn`t have to screw around with it tho.

George

[richardk]

Many moons ago, before I had my original wood wheel restored, I had one of these Grant wheels on my '67. I didn't remember having a lot of trouble getting it installed, so I dug it and the adapter out of storage to see what might have changed.

As you can see from the attached picture, at one time Grant supplied the wheel with an additional hole already drilled. Maybe I'm missing something but it seems all that was needed was to rotate the adapter 120 degrees counter-clockwise, drill a new hole and install.

I do remember having a little trouble getting the horn to work properly, and having to fab a spacer to keep the trim ring behind the wheel from rubbing on the column.

Another problem I had with this wheel was that after a year or so the paint on the spokes began to come off and the button head screws around the center section rusted.

Hope I haven't confused the issue any further.

[george kujanski]

Interesting that your wheel had an xtra hole, but you say you had todrill another. Again,after 46years onewould think it would be plug and play.....

I`m looking forward to the paint falling off and rust issues. :-(

Perhaps I should have bought the version with the polished center........

George

[FirebirdHank]

I have had similar problems on my first gen firebird and also on a third gen. When I bought the wheel for the third gen ( used, no mounting hub) I found an old hub in my junk drawer and drilled a new hole for the horn button @ 10 o-clock and had no problems. There was a problem with the wire for the horn not reaching far enough into the cancel cam housing. I had to file the diameter down a little.
It seems that every Grant wheel has to be tweaked somehow to get them to work.
You should not have to do that with something that costs over $200 new.
I also had the same problem as George with the Pontiac "arrow" being attached wrong on the center cap of my first gen wood wheel. I was able to loosen it and re apply correctly. Later I found an extra door "bird" and bonded that to a spare cap for a custom look.


After that picture was taken I stripped the finish off of the wood (I think they use a lacquer that softens with body oils) and re-finished with polyurethane. It looks much more even now.

[richardk]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

Interesting that your wheel had an xtra hole, but you say you had todrill another. Again,after 46years onewould think it would be plug and play.....

I`m looking forward to the paint falling off and rust issues. :-(

Perhaps I should have bought the version with the polished center........

George

Oops, guess I worded that poorly. With the extra hole provided on my wheel, no drilling was required.

As far as the peeling paint goes, I thought I would just take out the screws, remove the plastic ring separating the front and back spokes and repaint. Nope, that ring is captured between the spokes and can't be removed unless you cut it into two pieces. It was about this time I decided to have the factory wheel recast.

[Ogre]

Hmmm, George may have just talked me out of that nice Grant wheel I was going to buy. 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock? Which adapter?

Anyway, the attached pic is of an unmodified (except the plastic piece that's usually broken) on '72 LeMans setup FWIW. Figured I was looking, so I might as well get some snapshots.

Ogre

[joesweeting]

Any luck with your emblem?

I have a 69 GTO and I installed a Grant steering wheel and Pontiac emblem. It was pretty easy to switch out the Grant logo for the Pontiac one. I just popped out the retaining ring and swapped them. It seems like yours might be a little more difficult

http://www.grantproducts.com/products/view/74/

http://www.grantproducts.com/products/view/378/

[george kujanski]

Yep, I punched some new dimples, ground down the original,offending ones, and now the logo looks proper.

George

[GT182]

RichardK is showing what I'm going to do with my 4187 hub..... turn it so the section for the cam's plunger tube is a 10 o'clock. You don't really have to drill a new hole for the wire either. If it's long enough it can go around the hub and thru the original hole in the steering wheel.

Or use the 3162 and lay the wire in the grove that's just under the top bolt [between the bolt hole and the center section of the hub] for the steering wheel and still use the existing hole for the wire.

Only thing keeping me from pulling my wheel is I've got to get 3 14-28 fine thread bolts so I can use a harmonic balancer tool to get it off the column. I've only got the puller for the original 2 bolt steering wheel and the bolts in the kit are too big. No, I ain't gonna get the Warden out there with a hammer and do it the old way. I might not live thru that ordeal.

[Old Goat 67]

No, I ain't gonna get the Warden out there with a hammer and do it the old way. I might not live thru that ordeal.

Oh ye of little faith.

[GT182]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Oh ye of little faith.

YES! You come up and do it with her having a hammer in-hand. Then we'll see how little faith you have. And this has nuthing to do with God. Well it might have, after she swings. LOL

[george kujanski]

Called Neil Matranga at Grant customer service today to inform them that the 3162 kit is not proper for the '67, the 3196 is a closer fit, and that they do a poor job with the Pontiac logo.

He thanked me for the info and said he was a proponent of having the logo applique placed by the user to avoid such problems with the horn cap.

He will forward the info up the corporate ladder.......

George

[GT182]

George, tho the option for placing the signal cam on the right or left is with the 3196, I feel it's a piece of crap compared to the 4187. I just hope the plastic post part of the cancel cam will survive. There is no support for it like is built in for the 4187.

[GT182]

George, how'd you make out with the Pontiac emblem and getting the horn to work?

[george kujanski]

I did some creative redesign of the horn button and it fits on there correctly now.

The horn didn't work before, there were no horns I did add new horns before i put the front end back together but they still didin't work with with the original column. Of course, they still don't work now and I need to diagnose the issue, but it's been single digits around here for a few days and I'm getting lazy.......what I really need to do is use my lift to stack two cars so i can bring my Yukon out of the weather...got to do that first.

George

[LeighP]

I had the same thing with the horn cap on my Grant wheel....had to remove the decal and refix it to the cap in the correct orientation. Why they don't just toss it loose in the box with everything else is beyond me.