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Old 09-02-2002, 04:16 PM
norton70 norton70 is offline
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i have a 70 conv. GTO with at least 100k on chassis, that likes to wander around when driving, the wheel is pretty unresponsive and she drifts pretty good on the high speeds, i tried to tighten the set screw on the top of the steering boxs but all this did is tighten the resistance on the wheel, it didnt take up any of the slack that i was hoping for, i have receipts showing lower ball joints and bushings were replaced several years ago from the previous owner, and i have only put on about 5k since i purchased, so i assume its the steering box that needs replacement, how much, how hard, to replace the steering box, is there anyway to test to see if it is the steering box that needs to be switched vs other parts like tie rod ends, or other compnents i dont understand, thanks.

[ September 02, 2002, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: norton70 ]

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Old 09-02-2002, 04:16 PM
norton70 norton70 is offline
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i have a 70 conv. GTO with at least 100k on chassis, that likes to wander around when driving, the wheel is pretty unresponsive and she drifts pretty good on the high speeds, i tried to tighten the set screw on the top of the steering boxs but all this did is tighten the resistance on the wheel, it didnt take up any of the slack that i was hoping for, i have receipts showing lower ball joints and bushings were replaced several years ago from the previous owner, and i have only put on about 5k since i purchased, so i assume its the steering box that needs replacement, how much, how hard, to replace the steering box, is there anyway to test to see if it is the steering box that needs to be switched vs other parts like tie rod ends, or other compnents i dont understand, thanks.

[ September 02, 2002, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: norton70 ]

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Old 09-02-2002, 06:44 PM
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Sounds to me like ball joints and tie rods, you say lower ball joints were replaced but what about the uppers? Ive had my share of cars that liked to get blown around by the wind on the freeway, but none of them was the steering box, all were ball joints and tie rods. I think its easiest to replace the whole steering assembly, meaning the inner and outer tie rods, adjuster sleeves, center link and idler arm. then you just knock the whole other one off and replace the entire thing. No messing with loosening up old dirty parts that should be replaced anyways. Thats what I think anyways, hope this info helps.

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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
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Old 09-03-2002, 01:17 AM
norton70 norton70 is offline
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i will consider replacing the assembly as you suggest, thanks.

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Old 09-03-2002, 01:30 AM
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Another thing you could do is just jack up the front end and give your tires some good pushes and pulls, see where your slop is coming from. That way, the problem may become very obvious to you. Good luck finding the problem.

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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
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Old 09-03-2002, 02:16 AM
norton70 norton70 is offline
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i dont see a center link in the cataloge, do you need to buy the whole thing or just the ends?

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Old 09-03-2002, 02:19 AM
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also, how come in the front suspension kit it gives you outer tie rod ends but not inner?

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Old 09-03-2002, 03:05 AM
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Not too sure on that, but you don't have to order this stuff, I also have a 70 GTO and it is available at local parts stores. If they dont have it in stock they should have it at the warehouse. I got mine thru Bumper to Bumper and they had all the pieces, not sure if they are a national store but I would bet Autozone would be able to fix you up as well. Also alot of parts stores these days give lifetime warrantees on just about everything chassis related.Everything Ive gotten from autozone thats been brake and chassis related has lifetime warrantee printed under them on the receipt and you dont have to pay shipping or wait 1-2 weeks to get it. [img]smile.gif[/img]

Hope this helps

[ September 03, 2002, 03:06 AM: Message edited by: 428GTO70 ]

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1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi.
Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun!
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