[redgoated]

motor running at 2000 - 2500 rpm
new water pump
no thermostat, just water as I read somewhere
after running for 10 mins. temps were at and 180
shut it down, puked thru the cap, after shutdown temps rose to over 220

cam specs are :
comp cams/BP grind# BP6012SP
ADV DUR INT-261 EXH-275
DUR@.050 218 224
VALVE LIFT .463 .469
LOBE SEP 112

Helpful advice is much appreciated
Ed

[Scott65]

Hows the ignition timing?

[redgoated]

14 before around 2000rpm,vacuum adv off
should I put the t-stat in

[Scott65]

If you wanna leave the vacuum advance off, set it for around 28. Or, alternatively hook the vacuum advance up, if it provides 12-15.

[ZeGermanHam]

I don't view a 180F running temp as problematic. I'd have kept going. Maybe try pointing a commercial fan at the radiator if the temps keep climbing above 220F while running.

[tjs72lemans]

If it was at 220 I can see shutting it down, but not 180. It will rise in temp once it's shut down as everything absorbs the heat.

[Murf]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

If it was at 220 I can see shutting it down, but not 180. It will rise in temp once it's shut down as everything absorbs the heat.

I agree, that’s not hot. Are you were you can spray the radiator with water while it’s breaking in? I also agree that you don’t have enough timing if 14 degrees is it.

Murf

[redgoated]

thanks for the replies
maybe I shut it down early. but it when it hit 180 it was climbing pretty fast.
and the rad did puke. when I get back to it this weekend I'll retard it and try again.

[Murf]

Originally Posted by redgoated

thanks for the replies
maybe I shut it down early. but it when it hit 180 it was climbing pretty fast.
and the rad did puke. when I get back to it this weekend I'll retard it and try again.

I think you need to advance the timing if your 14 degrees @2000 rpm.

[tom s]

retarded timing will make them run hotter!Tom

[dataway]

Was it on a stand? In the car? Shroud installed? etc. etc.

Like everyone said ... 180 is not that hot, and keep in mind pure water is less efficient at removing heat than 50/50 mix.

The heat soak after shutdown is normal since the sender is high and on the engine side of the equation.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by dataway

Was it on a stand? In the car? Shroud installed? etc. etc.

Like everyone said ... 180 is not that hot, and keep in mind pure water is less efficient at removing heat than 50/50 mix.

The heat soak after shutdown is normal since the sender is high and on the engine side of the equation.

ive always thought/read that pure water removes heat more efficient than coolant. coolant will help stop boiling better than water, but water cools better.

[OG68]

Originally Posted by 78w72

ive always thought/read that pure water removes heat more efficient than coolant. coolant will help stop boiling better than water, but water cools better.

That was my understanding too.

https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/engin...pin-it-cool/2/

'The bad news about ethylene glycol/water mixtures is that the solutions specific heat capacity is less than pure water. That same 50% mixture will have a specific heat capacity that is about 20-percent less than pure water. That means as a quart of the 50/50 passes through the cooling system it is only able to carry away 80 percent of the heat from the cylinders that pure water would be able to transfer'

[78w72]

yeah ive heard that for 25+ years & even had direct experience with it back in the 90's. i had a mild 455 in a 78 t/a daily driver that would get hot (~200f) on hot summer days (90+f), (before i knew about water pump plate clearance & not using flex fans & that 200 wasnt really too hot). i tried the relatively new product "water wetter" & on the bottle it showed different concentrations of water/coolant & how that effected temps, the higher water % the lower the temps. with the anti corrosion benefits of the WW they said you could go to 10-20% coolant just for added boil over protection.... in the winter i had to up the percentage to 50/50 but during the summers with more water it did make a noticeable difference on the temps.

for cam break in a couple fans pointed at the radiator helps a lot as well as having a hose ready if the temps creep up too high. & proper timing, ive seen headers glow red on a SBC that was being broken in after just 5-10 minutes with too far retarded timing.

[Geoff]

Thermostat IN. Connect vac adv to manifold vacuum.

[Gary H]

Put a fan in front of the radiator while breaking in the cam. Leave it with straight water. Check your radiator cap for proper pressure operation. Keep it running unless it gets above 220.

[redgoated]

thanks for all your advice. guess I had a Biden moment my last post(said one thing but ment the opposite).
did what scott65 said
after about 15 min my gauge was hovering at 220. I let it continue cause I saw no steam came from the cap(forgot to mention 1st post)
ran it for 20 mins. last week the puke was violent more steam than water .
this time it did puke but mostly water only a little steam at first.less than 2"in a spackle bucket.
I probably should get a 4 core rad also my temp sender is under my coil which might be giving a bad reading.also forgot to mention bored 30 over and BP top end kit.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by dataway

Was it on a stand? In the car? Shroud installed? etc. etc.

Like everyone said ... 180 is not that hot, and keep in mind pure water is less efficient at removing heat than 50/50 mix.

The heat soak after shutdown is normal since the sender is high and on the engine side of the equation.

read this: https://www.no-rosion.com/hyperkuhlcoolant.htm

"Straight water conducts 140% more heat than glycol, and 60% more heat than a 50/50 mix. Therefore, running a standard 50/50 mix could be causing overheating and detonation in your engine. But using straight water also presents serious problems, because water coolant does not provide any corrosion protection."