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#81
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Greg,
Is that the extended version or the standard? Thanks, Neil
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Neil |
#82
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I'm thinking about one now that the body is back on the frame and working on the chassis is more difficult.
So far I'm having trouble getting over two things. Made in China And ... I can't find any real info on rated load vs. failure load etc. I realize they are not a commercial use item but it would be nice to see safety factor information. I think industry standard for lifts is supposed to be at least 1.5x rated load. I'd want to use it on my GMC Sierra also with a curb weight of 4500 lbs, which is getting pretty close to the rated weight of the 5000 series. |
#83
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Champ, the car that bugs me working under the hood is my Datsun. That first lift point raises it to just about the perfect height.
Neil, l have the standard length. I got an email about the extended version after l ordered. Not sure if the length is adjustable on the extended version but the standard barely fits between my front and rear tires on the Datsun. Dataway, I opted for the 7000 because the occasional four-wheel drive SUV shows up around here from time to time. We have a 5000 lb Toyota Sequoia now. Made in China is unfortunate but it's hard to find anything that's not anymore.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#84
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I gotta admit, if I do get one I'm probably going to immediately void the warranty. I'll probably weld on an attachment that would allow me to slide a cross bar between the two sides to link them. Simple sleeve and tube setup with a set screw on each side.
Obviously it's a safer setup than my usual jack stand method, and I know I'm going to be under this car a LOT in the first six months of shakedown. |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#85
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Quote:
Keep in mind, you can always use this thing just to raise the car and still use your crib supports or whatever you feel safe under. You can then move the entire setup out of the way completely. It just makes it a heck of a lot easier to get your car a couple of feet into the air. A plus for me is that I can think of several things right off the top of my head that I would prefer to do with the car raised that don't even require getting under the car. Pretty much anything from the beltline down and from bumper to bumper. Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#86
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Seems to be a lot more available than when I bought my scisssors lift, still it suits me and can roll around when not in use. If have a choice would rather pay more for more jack. This one could lift both my 148" WB RV and a 94" roadster.
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#87
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Quote:
https://youtu.be/2ea-5ifRRYI Over 16,000 pounds lifted in a demonstration with a 5,000 pound rated unit. They started with 5300 pounds and kept adding weight, but quit at 16,000+ pounds. |
#88
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Video is impressive, more impressive would be the company getting it certified, YouTube videos are typically not a great source of information when your life is on the line.
While I certainly don't doubt the test was done, a certification done on a random sample of products by an established objective laboratory like ALI would seem to be a no brainer. I think the standard for lifts is ANSI/UL 201. I think the QuickJack is sold in Australia, and I know they have much stricter certification standards for consumer level products like this so obviously they were tested and met those standards. Although, in general most people don't realize that even though a car can kill you, it's not really "heavy" by industrial standards .... I mean look at those gawd awful jacks they supply with every vehicle |
#89
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I watched this video before I purchased.
While not a certification, it convinced me that the 5,000 pound rating was conservative and that I'd be safe using it on my daily drivers (Chevy Equinox/Cadillac ATS at the time), the GTO and the Camaro. I chose not to use it with my 1981 Chevy C10 or my 1949 Cadillac Series 75 Limousine because they were too close to or over the rated capacity and I did not buy the extended unit which would be appropriate for lifting either one of them. |
#90
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I have my '68 up on it now so I can do a starter. Looking at it, it occurred to me that there is a very simple way to stabilize it if you were worried about it tipping (I'm not). Just make outriggers. All you need is a set of four 3 or 4" long pieces that slip fit into the inside diameter of the Quckjack frame tubes and a set of four 2ft lengths of pipe the same as inside and outside diameter of the Quickjack frame tubes. Just slip one into each of the 4 positions. You wouldn't void anything and it would be completely stabilized.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#91
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Well, after my wife an I spent some time on our back under the GTO sitting on it's tires, trying to install the fuel tank .... she convinced me to get a Quickjack ... said I could put it on the household budget instead of the GTO budget
Ordered the 5,000 from Home Depot, jeez, great prices on them there. Figure I can use it on my truck that with a curb weight of 4500. Also ... seems like it would work for getting a couple of my small tractors in the air ... driving right up on it and lifting by the tires. Like a Kubota 2200. Also should be easy to rig up something so I could use a single side as a motorcycle lift also. Anyone ever use just some basic wooden blocks to increase the lift height? Greg, thanks for the stabilizer idea ... sounds easy enough. |
#92
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Home Depot has a super deal on the QuickJack wall hangers. On the QJ website they want $80.00 for them, but HD has them for $32.00 with free shipping to your home.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/QUICKJAC...E&gclsrc=aw.ds I've been storing mine on the floor, but this will work much better and save floor space. |
The Following User Says Thank You to The Champ For This Useful Post: | ||
#93
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I don't see why wooden blocks wouldn't work just fine.
As for my starter swap, these things made it a breeze. Just removed the left front tire and I had very clear area to work in.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#94
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I’d still put Jack stands undah it…..just in case
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The Following User Says Thank You to MUSLCAH For This Useful Post: | ||
#95
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Are you guys having to use any extensions (length wise) to lift a GTO? A lot of reviews mentioned the "stock" ones were two short to reach the fore and aft lift points of some pretty small late model cars.
You guys just lining it up under the frame rails or are you using the lift points at the frame junctions aft of the front wheel and forward of the rear wheel? |
#96
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Got a Ranger Quickjack...
I position the quick jack when it’s completely collapsed a inch or so from the front tire. That will catch the frame forward of the weld near the trans cross member on my 72 GTO. It is a regular size 5000. It leaves room for easy positioning of the rear jack stands and just enough room for the front ones, depending on the jack stands foot print you are using. As Musclecah said, and I agree I would use them. I would recommend only using the rubber blocks, nothing solid.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
The Following User Says Thank You to DavesGTO For This Useful Post: | ||
#97
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dataway
The QJ 5000 standard model is fine with the GTO, Camaro, Equinox and ATS. I can easily place the lift blocks in the correct locations. As to using jackstands in addition - If you want to do it fine. I think there is a misconception that it's only the hydraulics supporting the car when in the raised position. But the hydraulics are not what is supporting the car in the air when lifted. There is a mechanical lock on each side. To undo the lock, you must first lift the car with the hydraulics to release it before it can come down. |
The Following User Says Thank You to The Champ For This Useful Post: | ||
#98
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Quote:
__________________
"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#99
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Formulabruce
You are correct, it did not lift it, but it did support it. But it can and did lift over the 5,000 pound rated capacity. |
#100
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Depends on the car. I have some square blocks for nornal car and some with deep grooves when need to lift at a pinch weld. And then there is the special block for an SLK.
BTW to handle 5,000 lbs advertised) at 45 degrees (max load on bars) it should also hold 16k at 90 degrees (pure compression) particularly if designed for a 50% safety factor. Last edited by padgett; 09-18-2021 at 04:30 PM. |
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