[HWYSTR455]

Have to be careful of any foam you use to try to plug gaps, it has to be resistant to heat, not hold water, etc.

I strongly recommend against anything with adhesive backing too, it just makes a mess in the long run.

The hot water heater pipe covering, the noodle tubing, works great. It comes in black, and a multitude of diameters. You can cut slits in them and wrap it some too. It's tough, and almost invisible once installed, it gets covered up by other items. Couple heat cycles and it 'molds' to the area as well.


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[Formulabruce]

Closed loop. The Dynamic T stat rating of a 160 stat, with a 9:1 cr and stock cooling, with alcohol in fuel is " about" 22 degrees on a 70 degree day with 40% humidity. I am sure a 160 t stat will get you into closed loop. Keep in mind cylinder Temps are much higher.
I run a 160 t stat in a stock LS engine year round and engine has no errors. It can take longer to get to closed loop when its below zero, but still gets there and runs fine.
You might like the results in your firebird. Also a cooler engine means AC will not have to work as hard.

[HWYSTR455]

No worries, there is no min coolant temp for your config:



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[grivera]

One thing I failed to mention is currently the car does not have a the coolant routed through the heater core. I have both the head and the timing cover plugged so no circulation between the two locations. Not sure if/how much that contributes to the system's inability to maintain temperature.

[HWYSTR455]

Hm. Well, I know there's a slight capacity difference, and usually when I eliminate the heater core, I run a hose from the head to the timing cover.

How much that impacts cooling I'm not sure, but if I had to guess, I think it does impact cooling.


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[78w72]

Originally Posted by grivera

One thing I failed to mention is currently the car does not have a the coolant routed through the heater core. I have both the head and the timing cover plugged so no circulation between the two locations. Not sure if/how much that contributes to the system's inability to maintain temperature.

probably very little. yes it adds a little capacity, maybe a qt or 2, but doesnt offer any real added cooling except for when the heater fan is turned on full blast with the flapper door open, like in winter/cold temps. i doubt plumbing the heater core back in will noticeably change the actual temps you are seeing now. but ya never know...

[grivera]

The heater hose nipple that came with the e-heads has no restriction in it. Is that OK to use once I get Vintage Air installed and route coolant through heater core?

[78w72]

i used a AN fitting for my E-heads that does reduce the size a bit, but i also put a stainless washer right before the inlet of the HC with a smaller hole than the opening of the inlet tube because i had read about wanting a restriction for the HC. cant say if its needed or helps any.

also cant comment on the vintage air thing but maybe others that have used it will know... or just call vintage air & ask what they say.

[grivera]

Is there an advantage to crossing over water from the back of drivers head as well?

[78w72]

i considered doing that too but after trying to route the extra lines to look clean & not interfere with other things i decided against it.

the only advantage im aware of to doing that mod is to have more even cooling to the cylinders that are on the other side or at the end of the flow. that wont really improve the over all cooling or what the gauge will read, its for longevity or consistancy in temps all around the block.

its a neat mod & some guys run the lines under the intake & drill & tap fittings into the back of the water crossover, looks cool but not worth the hassle for what i needed.

[Formulabruce]

The only way head cross over works is to route the combined lines to the water pump. This does help, but only needed on high cr engines on a autocross.