[Formulabruce]

The urge to upgrade should be tempered by actual usage.
Factory or replacement "cast" pistons give your block
LESS Wear than a Forged Piston , which is harder.
There are other light , but non wear piston options like KB.,
PONTIAC built these engines to have their power within
Their "driving RPM" Range.
99% of Pontiacs have LESS power at 5k rpm than at 4k, even built up engines.
With today's oil, and filtering, and balancing, even a stock rebuild will run well and last a very long time .

[jhein]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

The urge to upgrade should be tempered by actual usage.
Factory or replacement "cast" pistons give your block
LESS Wear than a Forged Piston , which is harder.
There are other light , but non wear piston options like KB.,
PONTIAC built these engines to have their power within
Their "driving RPM" Range.
99% of Pontiacs have LESS power at 5k rpm than at 4k, even built up engines.
With today's oil, and filtering, and balancing, even a stock rebuild will run well and last a very long time .

Thanks Formulabruce. Yeah, that's why I'm shifting where I am. I realized nothing really to be gained and only risk of damage. This is what I was hoping to hear from you guys with more actual experience than me. Thanks!

[Gator67]

If the motivation for a rebuild is concern about potential problems with the old internals, I would leave it alone for sure--especially if it's not a leaker and no other issues. If you're considering it not only for peace of mind, but also because you want to feel more power, I'd stroke it.

[Elarson]

I'd also vote for you to leave it alone.

General note to anybody that is preserving a "correct" block in a car....especially a highly collectible like a numbers-matching SD. If cylinders need to be cleaned up, figure the minimum amount of metal removal to clean up and then get custom pistons and rings to match. It wastes good metal to go from stock to +.030", then to +.060".

Also, if one cylinder is gouged and needs to be +.060", there's no need to take all of them to +.060". It costs a bit more but it's relatively simple these days to get the exact piston oversize and file-fit rings to preserve your collectible block.

Likewise, if you sleeve one cylinder, it can be returned to stock size while the other (7) are +.030", for example.

FWIW,
Eric

[mgarblik]

I too would vote for leaving it alone and continue enjoying it. Several posts about boring for sleeves. IMO, it would be much more cost effective and you would end up with a better engine taking that block to .070 over with custom pistons rather than trying to install 8 sleeves. Probably save around a grand in the process as well. To install 8 sleeves, bore them and finish hone and deck the block would be at least 2K around here. A set of custom pistons around $800.00 with pins and rings.

[jhein]

Hopefully this is not a ridiculous question, but, since the motor has only 1000 miles since the recent build and boring, would it need to be bored? Could it just be honed?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

When is the last time you changed wheel studs and lug nuts on this car?

Chances are they've been cycled/re-torqued more times than your rod bolts.

Rod bearing failure happens with any rod if you thrash on it hard enuff.

Clay

[bird72]

Longevity wasn't why went forged rods and pistons, it was the ability to have quality pistons and a higher compression. I run 10 to 1 and there is a power advantage.

[tdavidl]

Originally Posted by jhein

Sounds like you have a nice fresh motor now. The thing is mine is too. I have just under 1000 miles on it since the rebuild, I was just worried about the rods, bolts and valvetrain being so old. Especially as mentioned at 60 over this motor is on it's second or third life so I assume it has a fair number of miles on all those parts.

Nice looking Formula, BTW. Love that color.

thx...i wanted the white or blue t/a 20 yrs ago when i was looking...they weren't in my budget though...this one was :-)

mine has 2,000 miles on the rebuild....the builder also rebuilt the trans and put a changed out the pegleg rear with a differential...i kept the same 3.08 gears though...he massaged the auto trans w/different shift points as well so it snaps when i'm getting into it...