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#1
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Installing front sheet metal
I was wondering what the consensus was regarding installing front end sheet metal on 66 GTOs? Install the fenders to the core support and then put the inner fenders in from below or attach the inner fenders to the core support and then install the fenders? I still can't get the search feature to work so this has probably been covered an hundred time s before.
Thanks |
#2
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I would loose install the core support to the frame and then install each fender individually, inner fenders already attached to the outer.
That's how the factory did it (most of them, anyway) one per minute. K
__________________
'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#3
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Thanks Keith.
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#4
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Quote:
I do those the same way as Keith described. And to make everything easier, just loosely start all of the inner to outer fender bolts. Have the front wheels off and the weight on jack stands under the sway bar brackets. That eliminates any sag on the front and will let you align the fenders and radiator support with no resistance. For some reason some guys think this won't work and want to do it the hard way and fight the tires. It's worked for me for 40 years. Drop the fender on and start upper rear and upper front bolts so it will hang. Go underneath and start the bolts from the inner fender to lower firewall brace. Now start ALL other bolts that hold fender on. The first place to align/shim and lock down is the upper fender at the cowl, the bolt inside the top corner of the door. Leave the other uppers loose until later. Next align and lock down the fender bolt at the rocker. Now you should have a decent door gap. Put the cowl panel on and align the fender height to match at the cowl panel, using shims. Again, leave slightly loose. Bolt hood hinges on, then hood. Leave the hood striker off and start the panel alignment fun! (I won't go into hood hinge alignment here, it's been well described elsewhere). Start with aligning the hood to cowl, getting the hood centered between the fenders. Move your radiator support sideways to get straight side gaps, keeping in mind there is a little play at the the upper front fender bolts. What you want to do is get all 4 upper corners aligned, then tighten the remaining fender to cowl bolts. Next tighten the inner fender to lower core upper core support bolts, followed by upper fender to upper core support bolts. Now tighten core support to frame horns. If you see the heel (section in front of rocker) of the fender wanting to bulge out or in, you need to adjust the core support height on that side to take that stress off. Otherwise you will have bad gaps at your rocker trim and door edge. If after getting the support bolted down tight and you find the front hood gaps are off, just loosen and shift the support to correct it, then tighten. Now, assuming the fender fits 1. at the door edge 2. at the the rocker edge 3. the cowl panel 4. the hood side, you can now tighten the rest of the bolts. Having those tight in the beginning will make fender movement and alignment extremely difficult. Now, adjust side hood bumpers to set side height on the hood. Lastly, install and adjust hood center striker. |
#5
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Something I should add that will come into play on your 66, before you tighten those front inner fender bolts to the core support, have your front splash shield panels and header panel mounted, along with the front fender extensions under the lights. Again, slightly loose is good.
Because they tie the fenders together, all of those pieces will help set front width of the fenders. Front splash shield position when tight also has effect on bumper side gap, so adjust those to help bumper fit. |
#6
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400 4sp
I am not trying to high jack this thread, but I have a 67 and the nose will not lineup on the right side
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#7
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This is the info I was looking for. Thanks everyone!
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#8
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Quote:
If you do, remove the shims and then loosen the other bolts that connect the front of the fender and inner fender to the core support. Loosen passenger side core support main bolt to frame horn and shim that side of support up enough to bring the support to the fender. If you don't do it this way and just pull the fender down, you will probably cause the fender heel to bow out behind the tire. If I am way off base, I apologize. Otherwise I would point to a bent core support. Last edited by 400 4spd.; 04-26-2015 at 07:33 PM. |
#9
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Quote:
I installed the front fenders on about 1.2 million Chevy pickups, Blazers and Suburbans and that's (essentially) how it was done. K
__________________
'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#10
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Thanks for sharing that with us Steve.
I will be referring to that when I reassemble my 64. It has been bookmarked. |
#11
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Quote:
Steve |
#12
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Now added to the TECH THREAD ARCHIVE - Pontiac Street
Just too much good step-by-step info here to let it slip away.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
The Following User Says Thank You to b-man For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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Thanks Bart. I'm honored.
I should point out that these same basics apply to other cars. |
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