[crazypont]

I remember a while back I machined 1/8" off the pan rail on two or three IA2 blocks over the span of a few years. I didn't assemble those engines, but if I remember correctly, a regular oil pan fit those blocks just fine. But I am wondering if when they made the IA2 and dropped the pan rail down, did they also change the radius at the rear of the oil pan sealing surface on the rear main cap? I think I remember reading that there was possibly an early and a late radius on the rear cap? Maybe those were all early blocks that I milled the rails off.... So does a stock oil pan fit on a late model IA2 in the rear cap area? I know you would need the spacer up front.

[Skip Fix]

My non milled fit the rear main fine-other than a little BFH in the corners. It had a 1/8 plate for the front to timing cover seal.

[mgarblik]

I had no issues with the rear cap fitting the oil pan on any of the IA II's I have built, iron or aluminum. Remember though, you need a longer oil pump drive shaft to run a stock style pump. I have 1 if interested or if you need it. I also used a 1/8" filler for the front of the pan to timing case.

[Skip Fix]

I think the Canton oil pans I have had have all needed a little massage by the caps of any block.

[mysticmissle]

just dont try to use one of the BOP butler one piece oil pan gaskets on an IA2. cap is different as suspected. I usually use cork on the rear as it squishes a little more evenly until i get it where i want.
I dont recall using the spacer for the lip ( i know i have a couple of the spacers), i have doubled up front gaskets but im guessing my pan has been pulled into position by the bolts and some persuasion. a little bit of silicone in the corners as always seems to work every time.

[AG]

Without milling the pan rails, I used an extra piece of flat cork gasket covering about 70% of the #5 cap over the regular cork rear pan seal and it worked well.

[Bill Eveland]

If anything would just have less clearance at the back, i know in the past i've used a thick valve cover gasket , used the sides in between the bolt holes as a piece for the groove on the main cap. Or get even get something thinner and between some cork and rtv could seal it up. So really depends on how much clearance you have at the groove and if its concentric to the cap

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by AG

Without milling the pan rails, I used an extra piece of flat cork gasket covering about 70% of the #5 cap over the regular cork rear pan seal and it worked well.

I was told to do something like this as well. I will be doing it this time when the motor goes back together. Due to the added material on the pan rails and not changing the radius of the rear cap.