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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Is anyone familar with the Redi Strip process? I was going to have my body bead blasted, but the service at my local guy has been less than encouraging. The fenders he did were somewhat lacking in surface rust remove. Also the time frame at his shop is excessive and pricing is expensive if you have the underside done.
There is a nearby Redistrip in Allentown. I am concerned about the 2 Vin plates. They mentioned dissimilar metals can erode. Will the Vin plates and rivits remain untouched? |
#2
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Is anyone familar with the Redi Strip process? I was going to have my body bead blasted, but the service at my local guy has been less than encouraging. The fenders he did were somewhat lacking in surface rust remove. Also the time frame at his shop is excessive and pricing is expensive if you have the underside done.
There is a nearby Redistrip in Allentown. I am concerned about the 2 Vin plates. They mentioned dissimilar metals can erode. Will the Vin plates and rivits remain untouched? |
#3
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I had one dipped, it came clean but the plate was damaged a little. I think if I do it again I'll take the plate off ahead of time. Dipping can cost also. Good luck Julian
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#4
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If you're still able to have parts dipped, consider yourself a very lucky person.
For a truley best cleanliness approach, dipping a part is the only way to go. Blasting cannot even begin to do the job dipping does. Unfortunately, up here in Portland Oregon. DEQ restrictions have become so tight, that business' can no longer dip large parts. So all we have left, is to relay on the less then perfect blasting approach. Dipping relies on an acidic base chemical. So any thing other then steel will be damaged. So ALWAYS! make sure the tags are removed before dipping
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"Bye" "Bye" Rice Boy!!! |
#5
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While I don't have a lot of auto body experience, I've been working with military airframes for quite a while now and here's my .02. Find as close of a match in fastener as you can (I think those are probably pop rivets)and drill your old ones out with a #30 drill bit (1/8"). That should get them off nicely without stretching the hole. When you re-install the tag, treat the back side and in the holes with either paint or sealant (not RTV, though). If you use sealant, tape off area for tag first, so as not to allow bleeding when rivets tighten. Install fasteners and remove tape in a couple of hours time. Might not be concours, but I think you will like the look and function. Bead blasting works great on steel when done properly, in my experience even better when you add a little bit of baking soda in proportion to the beads. Blasting is not -repeat- not healthy for Alum. alloys. Best regards, Bob
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#6
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plastic media blasting will not remove rust or bondo. I had it done to my 69 442 Convert awhile back and it wasn't too bad. Plastic won't warp panels like sand will, but sand can take out rust and bondo. Only down side to blasting is if you still have an interior in it, it will collect media in every nook and cranny! best tip is make sure the guy knows what he is doing when blasting your car. If he is just learning how to use the equipment.....beware!
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"It beats pickin' cotton and waitin' to be forgotten" |
#7
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remove the vin tags - better safe than sorry!
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