[Bill Eveland]

Here's some more pics, some misc. body work I still need to finish and my attempt to narrow the rear frame rails. I'll show both sides, the lr rail and how it was from the factory the leafsprings mounts to the outside of the frame at the front and is in line with the frame rail at the back mount. The contour of the frame is really pushed out . If you want to run narrow tires than thats ok. But with my car jacked up from the frame, I only had about 7" between the wheel lip and brake drum to squeeze a bigger tire inside the rear wheelwell.
What i'm attemting to do is make a inside the frame rail mount using 2" x4" rectangular tubing 1/4" thick and a mount the front of the spring inside the frame rail and notched the rear half of the frame rail so it still ends up in line with the factory rear mount. You can't see it but under all the body filler dust are all my plumb bob marks and lines on the garage floor to keep everything square. I may just reuse my stock inner fenderwell and add in 4" of filler and still end up with 18" of wheel at the axle centerline. I still have to box the frame rails in, put in a shock crossmember and another crossmember at the front leafspring mounts. I also had to remove the x ou tof the frame and use a normal style trans crossmember to help tie it together.

[Bill Eveland]

A few more, these show the rear view differance of both rear frame rails. I still should be able to use the factory fuel tank too, i'll have to center it between the frame rails and cut the filler neck and add an extension. I did lose the spare tire well. I should also be able to keep the back seats too.

[Jack Gifford]

Bill- The first few years in pulling, I kept trying to live with re-splined 31-spline axles. I must still have 4 or 5 broken axles still kicking around here, after using a couple for other projects. Hardening the splines wouldn't help, since they don't break there. A couple did break within a few inches of the splines, but most broke quite a few inches away from the splines. Aftermarket axles are such a huge jump in strength that I hate to see anybody waste time shortening the Ford axles. I've only once broken a Strange axle, and it broke from twisting backward- a pinion tooth broke and jammed the differential to an immediate stop, while the tires were turning about 120 MPH! (Lots of rotating inertia in those 18.5" x 44" tall puller tire/wheel assemblies). And for the 10 or 11 seasons with the Strange axles, I continued to 'ratchet up' the power being put to them.

[X2daC]

Bill. Your project looks great!!!!

Originally Posted by Tim55Chieftain

Bill,
Do you know why the difference in our front bumpers? Was the extra stuff hanging off of mine an option, or some other add-on? Any history?

I like your 56 hood lines on your 55, that seems to be the mod I've seen on Chieftans. 56 hood lines on a 55, and 55 hood lines on a 56. Same thing with the rear lines.

[Bill Eveland]

Thats Tims car not mine, I wish mine was that nice.
I don't understand what you mean about the hood line differance between 55 and 56?

[X2daC]

55s had 5 lines in the strip, while 56s have 7.

[pontchief]

Originally Posted by X2daC

55s had 5 lines in the strip, while 56s have 7.

Are you shore about this?
My 55 star chief has 7 in front and 5 in the rear.
I have looked at a lot of pics of 55/56 at the web and all of them had 7 profiles, in the front.
I don’t think, the moldings could have been replaced on all this 55's.
Cold there be another reason to explain this..

[1955SC]

As to why some cars have the wrong Strips on them I can only guess. Someone changed them not knowing there is a difference. Or the hood was replaced for some reason and the donor was a '56.

On ALL 55's the ribs (the chrome raised portion) are of equal width, thats 9 on the hood and 6 on the quarters.

On the 56's the outer rib on each side is wider than the ones in the center, this is true both on the hood and the quarters. Also on the hood strips, the center ribs drop down in from the outer ribs. I'm unsure how many ribs the 56 hood strips have. The quarter strips actually have 7 ribs all on the same plain. Outside ribs are wider, and the center ribs are narrower and closer together.

hope that clears things up.
Edward

[Bill Eveland]

Even if the 55 and 56 were differant and switched over the hood holes are differant, so the at least the retaing clips would have to be swapped over. 55's use 2 clips per attatching point that twist in from the bottom and 56 have the center hole for a single bolt in the middle.

[X2daC]

Well it could a common mod, or just something people like better.

I remember seeing quite a few pics and actual 55 Chiefs, with the the five lines on the hood and rear. I've also seen the seven lines on 55 Chiefs. It wasn't til' I asked a guy who owned a couple 55 Chiefs and he said the five lines were stock for 55s and the 56s were stock with seven. If I'm wrong, so be it, this is just what I've been told and witnessed.

[PLAY400]

Bill what size tire are you going to run on back? I have a set of 315x16x15 on mine and it's just mini tubbed with springs under frame rails. All set up for straight axle swap in a year or.... One of the reasons my tires fit was my wells are also pushed forward along with the axle. Never knew til it was pointed out to me a few months ago. 113 wheel base. I'm sticking with stock width axle and 7 1/2 offset on rears.

I also have a set of 56 hood chrome. Dosn't fit on my 55. Tried to use them last time we put a fresh coat of primer on it. Was more than a hole issue too. But then maybe I have a 56 hood on car with spare 55 chrome? Also have a couple of hood ornaments that don't line up either but not sure if 55 or 56.

1 thing to watch for Bill is your ignition wiring. If you use a newer starter you will not have a post to tie your ignition to so it will not get power when cranking. Just found that out when connecting my mini. Not too big a problem for me as I also use the Ford Solinoid and can pick the lead up from there but since I'm still doin the '2 lane blacktop' thing I decided to use a button.

[Bill Eveland]

Depending on how much room I want to be able to get the tires on and off, 315/60/15 , 29/15.5/15 or 345/55/15. Maybe also the M/T sr radials. It looks like they finally released some new sizes, Jegs is listing a 30 x 12 but no section width info, there not even listed on the MT site.
I still use a Pontiac starter with a solenoid that has the s & r terminal. The r terminal feeds the ignition and bypasses the ballast resistor while cranking. I found that out the hard way, but replaced my bad ballest with one for a dodge truck (1 ohm) and works fine.

[PLAY400]

Bill aren't you using an HEI ignition or some sort of electronic ignition. If so I don't think you need resistor. I would think if your coil required a resistor it would be installed between your box and coil Alan

[Bill Eveland]

I'm using a Mallory Unilite and MSD Blaster II coil. Per the instructions it requires a resistor.

I wish it was as easy to just relocate my springs under the frame rails, your chevy frame / canadian Pontiac has alot more options available.

[Jack Gifford]

Seven rib; five rib; etc.- Any possibility of U.S./Canada differences?

[PLAY400]

The 1's on the car have 7 ribs and if you put a flat edge across they are the same height as the outside ribs. The other set that doesn't fit has 6 internal ribs and they are sunk down from the outside ribs. Also appear to be heavier gauge. I can post pixs later. Alan

[pontchief]

Hi Bill

Do you have any newer pictures to share?

[Bill Eveland]

I did get the rear frame rails piecut, moved in and boxed in. Have about 18" at the axle centerline. Probably get about 14" of tire underneath. Than I have to build and install an upper crossmember for the shocks. I also have to make a pocket support for the front of the leaf spring.

[pontchief]

Hi Bill

Is the rear Pontiac frame very different compared to Classic Chevy?

I have seen complete frame kits for Classic Chevy, to do this job.

I think I will use a 8.8 Fomoco rear Axle with disc brakes, because they are easy to get and not so exspensive.

What do you think about that?

I am not going to use slicks on my car.

I am also thinking about using a 4 speed manuel Transmission.

How much, do you think I have to pay "over there for a complete, good shape 4 speed that will fit the 69 428cid.

[Bill Eveland]

The American built Pontiac has a totally differant frame than a Canadian built which is the same as a Chevy frame.
If I were getting a 8.8 I may be looking for a 95-01 Explorer with rear disc. It's narrower than a 55 rear but would make it easier to get wider tires on and off the car . The 8.8 is a pretty tough rear end and should be ok.

If your talking Muncie 4 speed, probably anywhere from 500-2000 depending on condition. I could never find the correct parts to use the factory clutch pedel for my 4 speed and used a th400 instead. Manual trans cars are rare and getting all the parts my be a harder task than getting a muncie.