[Bill Eveland]

Troy, I took your suggestion and this is what I ended up doing. Ran fittings in the cover and crossover for 1/2" heater hose. I also plugged the crossover and water nipple in the passenger head. You can see by where my alt is the factory 60 timing cover water pipe was right in the way. The shorter 90 degree fitting freed up alot of room there.
I also needed a bracket to support the alt arm. For now I used the top water pump bolt for a small bracket I had. Made a fuel pump block off since the Hurst mount doesn't leave my room. I shorted the driveshaft I had, rear trans mount done and got the headers back on to see about running exhaust thru the x member. Got a lotta work done today, it's feels good to know shortly this will be running.

[Bill Eveland]

I got quite a bit done lately since my last update.The front clip is back on, I used the frame from my original radiator and used a universal radiator and built a frame to support it. Trans lines , radiator hoses are all done. Fuel and electricity are all to get this running.

[Bill Eveland]

It's alive. The blurry video if from going from the ac to the 100 degree humid garage.
I have a nostalgic drag race i'm trying to make in 3 weeks , and still have some work to do but it was good to have it running.

[buds56]

Sounds pretty good
You have had that car a long time ,it has to be a great feeling to have it running.
Congrats, Bud

[marks73ta]

Still going strong there Bill. Great watching your progress. Your build keeps me going. Mark L

[Bill Eveland]

Thanks guys, yea my 3 week deadline is really pushing to get alot of work done.
Your right Bud i've have this longer than i've been here even. Been along time since we talked about selling the 287 I had.

Today I replaced my front floor braces from my other 55 I had and made some floor pans for the front and rear. I still have to finish the brake lines and master cylinder than finish bolting the frame down to the body. I still have to at least run some brake lights and fix whatever little bugs come about.

[Gas455]

Good stuff Bill !!

When you get it out to the track...get some better footage.
Keen to see it out and about.
Greg

[Bill Eveland]

Floors are done for the most part on the passenger side except for more welding, I made the slots in the floor panals with some 1/4 rod attatched than peened over the rod. I still have the driver front and the hole for the underseat heater. Also I put the trunk all back together and removed the spare tire wheelwell. It was all cut out at one point when I tried moving the frame rails inboard for the minitub. Also the center section where the front seats mount with the center floor braces are out of the other 55 I had. So much for the "solid" car that was advertised that I drove about 8 hours to get....

[Bill Eveland]

For the first time in 7 seven years I got to start my car and drive it, just outside the garage only though. I still have my drag race next weekend to go to. I'll try to get some videos than.

[Jack Gifford]

Stay safe, Bill.
Lookin' good!

[60man]

Looking good Bill.....was ya a grinning?
Definitly got that Gasser look...

[twooldgoats]

Looks good. I only recently starting following your build. Congratulations on getting it running. My wife was driving a '55 when we met, so I have a soft spot for them.

Jim

[Bill Eveland]

Thanks guys, here's some of yesterdays work in the 100+ heat ...
I made the driver floor pan and got tacked in place and underseat heater hole filled in.

[Bill Eveland]

No videos, but here are a few pics at the track from the weekend. I had some fuel issues I have to deal with. But the car ran safely down the track with no other problems. I had a blast just to get to drive this thing, what a way to break in my car. I'm running againt "Old Injun" with is an actual race car from the 60-70's.

[Rocky 389]

Wow! What a cool photo! That must have been super fullfilling...wish I could have seen that run. What kind of times?

[Bill Eveland]

Thanks, the times were pretty slow. 16's , but considering the fuel problems I had, low pressure and it was real hot that day. It surged and stumbled bad halfway thru 2nd gear. I may set it up for a return type system with a factory type filter up by the carb that has the return fitting and go back to a mechanical pump. I should drop off a few seconds pretty easy once I get it all straightened out.

[Bill Hanlon]

I think Rocky was reffering to this AC pump. You can remove the screws and "clock" it any way you want.

[Bill Eveland]

Someone at the race sent me a copy of their video. Halfway thru the run you can hear my car surging down the track .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=f4to2fo1Z-Y

This my first run, once I figured out the staging lanes duh . I kept trying to stage with my back tires. Than made it down the track trying to get used to the new shifter as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=pkkv7An9OrI

It was a learning experiance and I was happy just to get it down the track. I have a fuel system upgrade I'll be doing starting with a sumped fuel cell with a gauge . I was going to put in a small 5 gallon but decided to go ahead with a 16 gallon for when I get it on the street. My cars gauge is 0 to 30 ohms and the only thing close available is 0 to 90 so i'll be wiring in a 47 Ohm resister parallel to drop the resistance back to 30.

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by Bill Eveland

My cars gauge is 0 to 30 ohms and the only thing close available is 0 to 90 so i'll be wiring in a 47 ohm resister parallel to drop the resistance back to 30.

47 ohm resistor in parallel with 90 ohm at full sending unit will give:
30 ohms at full tank (which is good. real full = full on the gauge)
26 ohms at 3/4 tank (gauge will be around 7/8 full)
22 ohms at 1/2 tank (gauge will be around 3/4 full)
11 ohms at 1/4 tank (gauge will be around 3/8 full)
9 ohms at 1/8 of a tank (gauge will read a little more than 1/4 full)
0 ohms at empty with the gauge reading empty.

What I am trying to say is that wiring in a parallel resistor wont make for a linear readout at the gauge.

[Bill Eveland]

I have some Gm stuff that does that anyway, go slow than fast towards empty . Is there a better alternative Bill? If I have to maybe a 0 to 90 gauge.