[67bluegto]

Other than the diagram in the 69 Service Manual, can someone tell me where I can get a good diagram of the hideaway headlight system for a 69 GTO? If I manually close the headlights and turn on the headlight switch, the lights will open but when I shut off the headlights, they do not close. All the vacuum hoses from the firewall to the headlight switch have been replaced. It appears that there is only ONE CHECK valve and it is just before the cannister. I thought that there were supposed to be two check valves??? Any help sure would be appreciated. I am no mechanic, but I can follow diagrams and troubleshoot to isolate the problem. In advance, thanks!!!

[SWEETJUDGE]

im in the process of adding now, im no help at the moment but will take a look. i have an original harness & im thinking 2 of those 1 way valves

[robz]

Originally Posted by 67bluegto

Other than the diagram in the 69 Service Manual, can someone tell me where I can get a good diagram of the hideaway headlight system for a 69 GTO? If I manually close the headlights and turn on the headlight switch, the lights will open but when I shut off the headlights, they do not close. All the vacuum hoses from the firewall to the headlight switch have been replaced. It appears that there is only ONE CHECK valve and it is just before the cannister. I thought that there were supposed to be two check valves??? Any help sure would be appreciated. I am no mechanic, but I can follow diagrams and troubleshoot to isolate the problem. In advance, thanks!!!

This has been covered many times here (do a search for older posts)...My guess would be the inner seal on one (or both) of your cannister(s) has come off...It will allow it to open well but not close...Otherwise, could also be a switch issue...One check valve only (unless you have A/C, IIRC)...

[SWEETJUDGE]

thanks rob i forgot about A/C

[68MeanVerdoroGreen]

Does this help?

[67bluegto]

That diagram will be very helpful Larry, thanks a lot. Also thanks to all that took the time to post your reply as I will use them while I try and find the problem.

Joe

[pnswann1]

I'm having the same problem. I eliminated the switch by running a vacuum straight to the open and closed side of the acuators. The hideaways work fine. I let the switch hang, hooked up the middle port and connected a vacuum gage to the open and closed ports. I am getting vacuum on the open side but nothing on the closed side. When I shut the car off I heared a leak/hissing sound. I've gone through three new repop switches and still have the same problem. I did call one of the parts house (no name mentioned) and was told that they are having problems with the repop hideaway switches. I got a refund and tried a different place but still the same problem. They probably all use the same manufacturer.

[Ram Air IV Jack]

Originally Posted by pnswann1

I'm having the same problem. I eliminated the switch by running a vacuum straight to the open and closed side of the acuators. The hideaways work fine. I let the switch hang, hooked up the middle port and connected a vacuum gage to the open and closed ports. I am getting vacuum on the open side but nothing on the closed side. When I shut the car off I heared a leak/hissing sound. I've gone through three new repop switches and still have the same problem. I did call one of the parts house (no name mentioned) and was told that they are having problems with the repop hideaway switches. I got a refund and tried a different place but still the same problem. They probably all use the same manufacturer.

That is the problem with some repop parts. Also, the service life of many of these parts is much less than a NOS piece. I have seen these switches on Ebay from time to time and that might be the way to go. Sometimes these switches can go for a pretty hefty price.

A used switch might be fine too if nothing is broken. The mechanism is quite simple and many on this forum have fixed these switches when they have failed.

Good luck...

[paint guy]

Don't know if this is of any interest to you,but after hearing about all the problems with the vacuum system on the hideaways,I took motors out of an 86 fiero(I wanted to keep it all Pontiac...LOL)and hooked up my doors to them.Minor fabrication of a couple of brackets in addition to using the existing motor brackets from the Fiero(Trans Am motors will work also as they are the same.)Had to drill two small additional holes in the bottom steel of my Endura(they won't show) and used existing holes to mount the home-made brackets.I will be putting in adjusting screws with rubber stops so I can adjust how far they open and close exactly.No more grills not lining up,and it will all be controlled by a non-hideaway headlight switch.Won't be put in the car for awhile(body comes off the frame in about two weeks)but unless there is an issue with not enough room,this should work well.Only for the guys who don't care about originality.

[nh68gto]

I have been dealing with my switch for a while now, and think I now have it working fine... we'll see....

Take off the cover to the air ports, remove rubber piece, next will be a plate, then like a thin plate acting as a spring.

Now you will be left with a metal basket looking thing, as you move switch in and out is this piece moving when you move switch. If not take it out and there will be a little prong on the back. Next look in to the grove of the switch as you move switch, a black piece should be moving... There is a small grove for the prong to go in, set it in and make sure it will move with the switch.

If basket is in right, with switch laying flat air port area facing you and switch handle to your right, there should be an opening in the basket from the prong being machined.

I put a dab of supper glue here to hold prong to the black piece.

Now get some grease and lube area, that basket slides in.

Reassemble, spring, plate, rubber,...now on top of rubber put some grease (a little goes along way). Grease back side of air port plate and reassemble, making sure prongs are folded over tight.

If goes well this should fix the problem. There is to much friction and pressure (air) on switch and prong (on basket) separates from black part in the switch...

Just my .02 Hope it may help someone.

[gtohunter]

I've been wanting to get away from the oem switch, and I've found a 12VDC valve that would do the trick. Apply voltage, valve shifts, about $12. Just tap the headlight +12V to feed the coil, de-energized when lights are off, and mount under the dash, and you have 2 pos. valve. vacuum common, a and b ports. I don't think the coil pulls enough current to worry about, but you could always wire in a relay?? You could use a non-hideawy switch, and get the same functionality, using the valve, and more reliable.

http://www.fremontindustrialsupply.c...ve-asco/Detail