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  #21  
Old 03-13-2005, 07:33 PM
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  #22  
Old 03-14-2005, 08:39 AM
69_man 69_man is offline
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hey guys,

If i could find one of the older motors with internal limits would it be worth useing or is it out dated or is the newer one simpler to hook up?

  #23  
Old 03-14-2005, 10:29 AM
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I'm really interested in this setup.
What exactly is needed parts-wise to do this [as fr as stock Hideaway parts and the other make parts from Chryslers?]

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Old 03-14-2005, 11:35 AM
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this is so totally sweet.

im heading to a yard this weekend.

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  #25  
Old 03-14-2005, 11:38 AM
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what you need to get rid of that is stock are the actuators,actuator brackets,and the springs. on the chrysler you need the motor, drive rod and the two "L" brackets that attach from the rod to the headlite doors. look back in this post its all there.

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  #26  
Old 03-14-2005, 02:13 PM
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Last trip to the boneyard I took the headlight stuff (motors, brackets, drive shafts) off of three LeBarons.

I haven't done the conversion yet, but I will have (hopefully) two motors and bracket sets to sell. Should be a fun project.

Bob Trimpe
68 GTO raggy top
68 Firebird HO

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  #27  
Old 03-14-2005, 03:55 PM
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Cejay,

I know this is off topic, but where did you get the top radiator support brackets? I'm running march pulleys and I don't want to use stock upper radiator support for my 68 GTO. I'm also not worried about the stock fan shroud, I'm running dual electric fans. Thanks,

Mike

  #28  
Old 03-14-2005, 04:41 PM
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Mike

I had to use the clamps because the radiator is one of those $150 universal deals. The radiator fits very well but required extensive shroud modification but it also fit well with the after market aluminum parrallel flow a/c condenser. Anyway, the brakets are of the various late 70's to 80's Ford design you'll find alot in the yard but becarefull they're many different ones.While searching i found two major designs, one steps down as if the radiator was lower than the core support and one steps up as if the radiator was higher than support, I used the step up version. then theres tank width to keep in mind. Most cars i found had one long braket and one short, Ford go figure.I ended up useing two long brakets(large tank size)each one from two different cars.A large early 80's country squire.Recently I saw some on a late 90's crown vic. The bigger ones are usually on the passenger side. Because you can't access underneath the core support you must drill a hole and weld a nut in it flush to mount.I'll post a closer pic tonite.

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  #29  
Old 03-14-2005, 06:07 PM
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here you go mike

radiator brackets & headlites
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  #30  
Old 03-14-2005, 06:09 PM
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  #31  
Old 03-14-2005, 06:10 PM
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  #32  
Old 03-14-2005, 06:11 PM
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  #33  
Old 03-14-2005, 06:12 PM
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  #34  
Old 03-14-2005, 06:14 PM
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  #35  
Old 03-15-2005, 07:50 PM
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cejay,

sorry to change the subject but where did you get that washer bottle?

  #36  
Old 03-15-2005, 10:01 PM
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I want a electric hideaway system! Tell me how much, and the check is in the mail!

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  #37  
Old 03-15-2005, 10:28 PM
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sgtgto,

Exactly how of the system do you need? All of the parts are available at your local salvage yard. Its a easy conversion but I'll help you anyway I can. This post is the most informative details, drawings and pictures.

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  #38  
Old 03-16-2005, 11:58 AM
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Just today, I found a nice little package for running electric hideaways. Its two 40A relays wired in a single weatherproof package. Wire it up to any SPDT momentary switch (like a power window or power door lock switch) and you have all the controls you need for your electric hideaways. Allows you to put a nice small low-power switch in the dash, and leave the big fat wires out in the engine bay. $20.

I bought two - I'm going to use the other one for my power top.

Bob Trimpe
68 GTO raggy top (soon to have electric hideaways!)

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  #39  
Old 03-16-2005, 03:29 PM
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Bob
your exactly right BUT there are no big fat wires, there two 14ga. wires that leave the cab run over fender well and through core support to the motor you'll never see them, no relays to mount under the hood or anywhere else, no switch to mount and operate, and solid state electronics are not high powered.The relays, extra fuse block and "big fat wires" under the hood of my car in the picture
have nothing what so ever to do with the headlight system, they run the cars entire electrical system. In the end either one will work.
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  #40  
Old 03-16-2005, 04:38 PM
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Cejay,

I don't have any of the system in my 68. I dont know if it came with them, or not. But i have the doors for them. I know that. I would like to get a whole package deal, that has everything i need to make it work. Think you could help me out? There arent many junk yards that i know of here in the Grand Rapids area. I know that TigerEFI.com used to have a system, but isnt producing them anymore.

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