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Old 09-09-2005, 08:49 PM
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cejay825 cejay825 is offline
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Exclamation hideaway module update

IMPORTANT INFORMATION !!!!!!!!
ELECTRIC HIDEAWAY CONVERSIONS MUST READ!!!!
First of all let me appologize for not answering the many people who contacted me concerning my hideaway module, here's why.
The module I built was very limited, meaning the lites are on or off and the doors are either up or down which was not good enough, I'll explain later.
On a trip to the salvage yard I was determined to see what operates the chrysler door motor. After completely destroying the dash of a 1988 lebaron I found it! 1989 AND BELOW USE A HEADLITE DOOR MODULE SEPERATE OF THE CARS MAIN COMPUTERS. It is located in the center of the dash where a speaker would normally be. Pry up the top dash panel and look for the coffin shaped box about 7" X 3.5".This is a complete stand alone unit that does it all and is able to handle high current.It has a 10 wire connector on it. This module is amazing.when you first turn to the headlite position, doors go down lites come on; return to parking lite position and the doors stay down, headlites go out; return to off postion all lites off doors up.So, if you wanted to ride around with doors down and headlites off you can. For this operation and all that follow you must use the lebaron headlite switch, which will fit with little modification. Here's the kicker, if you use the lebaron beam selector switch (which must be remote mounted,won't work in floor you can find it on the side of steering column), with the headlite switch in the off position---one press of the beam selector switch and the headlite doors will cycle themselves. They will go down and sit for 2 seconds and then go back up: if you press and hold the beam selector swt. the doors will go down and stay there untill you release it again at that point they close. THIS IS AWSOME! in other words you can make them blink.Okay, stay with me here, if you find a car equipped with the headlite delay system, there is a big siver relay mounted above the glove box that you must use in conjunction with the module to do this. This feature is the best of all---if you turn the ignition off before the headlites off, the doors will stay down with the lites on for 60 seconds, after that, the lites go off and the doors go up automaticly,, very cool! OTHER OPTIONS:you can use the gto headlite switch but you will only be able to "headlites on doors down, headlites off doors up". Now if you use the lebaron headlite switch and the gto dimmer swt. you will have all of the neat above mention features except delay but it will act different---press dimmer once, doors go down and stay, press again they will go back up. IF you press it quickly TWICE the doors will cycle themselves(blink) down for 2 seconds then back up. Finally, I think that about covers it, except wiring unit up, which I will try to post when I'm back online tomorrow nite.

Electric hideaway conversion footnote:
After several months of trying perfect this system, I know some of you may shutter to think of doing this but, if you remove a large section of metal from the middle of the hideaway door (behind the grill piece) the doors work way smoother and the motor has more contol. The doors have some serious weight and removing it made all the different in the world on mine. If your thinking on useing springs by the time you put a spring on strong enough to assist in holding up the doors it really puts a bind on the plastic mechanism in the door motor.
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Last edited by cejay825; 09-09-2005 at 11:13 PM.
  #2  
Old 09-09-2005, 09:17 PM
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Thanks for the info. I appreciate all your hard work. Regards Dave

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Old 09-09-2005, 10:52 PM
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I always figured there had to be something in the car to control the motor. The later motor has no internal switches so the unit you found must also detect when the motor hits up or down by monitoring the stall current.

Good job of detective work. I will have to get one and try it. I still have my car on a reversable toggle switch.

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  #4  
Old 09-09-2005, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Blum
I always figured there had to be something in the car to control the motor. The later motor has no internal switches so the unit you found must also detect when the motor hits up or down by monitoring the stall current.

Good job of detective work. I will have to get one and try it. I still have my car on a reversable toggle switch.
Possibly, I know has an intergated circuit broad with some timer chips and relays. you can hear it clicking as it goes through the motions. On the 1990 and later models it is all controlled through the body computer.

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Old 09-12-2005, 12:12 PM
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Well I got my Electric Hideaway system hooked up Sunday and it is awesome. Everything is synched nicely and the doors line up with the grille perfectly.
I look forward to the wiring diagram from you on this so I can really get it finished!

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Old 09-12-2005, 12:37 PM
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Looks like a nice development going on. Keep it up.

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Old 09-12-2005, 03:41 PM
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i admire all of the "detective work" involved in the electric hide away conversion,(as i myself have installed the hideaway system in a 1968 chrome nose, vacuum powered, lots of fabbing involved), but i really don't see the need of all the mods and possible permanent changes made to the vehicle, when properly setup factory parts work amazingly well, i have zero issues with my setup, and i am running a blower to boot,(as far as vacuum is concerned). don't get me wrong fellas, but it just seems like the time and money could be spent elswhere to improve your old iron.
davey
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blown 68
don't get me wrong fellas, but it just seems like the time and money could be spent elswhere to improve your old iron.
davey
Don't get me wrong either, but that "blower" to me is "time and money" that could be spent somewhere else. Your car works fine vacuum doors,My car works just fine without a blower. Its all in what you like.

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Old 09-12-2005, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cejay825
Don't get me wrong either, but that "blower" to me is "time and money" that could be spent somewhere else. Your car works fine vacuum doors,My car works just fine without a blower. Its all in what you like.
No need to get defensive. I, too, appreciate the work you've done. However, my car came with the vacuum operated stuff and I've managed to get everything to work as designed from the factory, using aftermarket replacement parts. My biggest expense was the door bushing kit.

Heck, the doors will even cycle once with the engine off, like if I shut the engine off without turning the headlights off first. Can't complain about that!

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Old 09-13-2005, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cejay825
Don't get me wrong either, but that "blower" to me is "time and money" that could be spent somewhere else. Your car works fine vacuum doors,My car works just fine without a blower. Its all in what you like.
easy now, didn't mean to offend, touche on the blower, you are correct, it is in what you like, i like 700 horses on pump gas, and i spent alot of time and money re-wiring the entire car, making mods, etc., but i also have a bone stock 1969 ramair III that i put back to factory correct everything. i am running on the assumption that you guys are modding your relatively stock vehicles, and i am on both sides of the fence, a resto purist with my 69, and a do want the heck you want to do with it with my 68, so i repeat, no offense, i have much respect for modding and improving things, i am just curious as to the drive behind this particular mod, when it seems to work fine otherwise. good luck,
davey

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Old 09-13-2005, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blown 68
easy now, didn't mean to offend, touche on the blower, you are correct, it is in what you like, i like 700 horses on pump gas, and i spent alot of time and money re-wiring the entire car, making mods, etc., but i also have a bone stock 1969 ramair III that i put back to factory correct everything. i am running on the assumption that you guys are modding your relatively stock vehicles, and i am on both sides of the fence, a resto purist with my 69, and a do want the heck you want to do with it with my 68, so i repeat, no offense, i have much respect for modding and improving things, i am just curious as to the drive behind this particular mod, when it seems to work fine otherwise. good luck,
davey
Okay guys, I think my post was read out of context I never was offended or defensive the only thing I meant was "to each his own" its all good! But I must say Davey the same reason you can't figure out for doing this mod--I feel the exact same way about your blower. "to each his own"

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Old 09-13-2005, 02:47 PM
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sounds great, i surely cannot argue with you on the each his own. like i said, good luck with the experimentation. tell you what, if i figure out a good method of actuating the doors with my blower, would you like it then? (wink wink).
davey

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  #13  
Old 09-13-2005, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blown 68
sounds great, i surely cannot argue with you on the each his own. like i said, good luck with the experimentation. tell you what, if i figure out a good method of actuating the doors with my blower, would you like it then? (wink wink).
davey
That sounds odd enough!,I'll be the first one in line!

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  #14  
Old 09-14-2005, 07:27 PM
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I have 91 motors on mine. Do you think the module will work on them or am I going to have to find earlier motors.

Thanks Glen

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Old 09-15-2005, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamingmuscle
I have 91 motors on mine. Do you think the module will work on them or am I going to have to find earlier motors.

Thanks Glen
Glen

The module will work that motor just fine. It will control all of them. When you say motors are you use more than one ?

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Old 09-16-2005, 01:05 PM
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cejay,
Any update on the wiring schematic?

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Old 09-16-2005, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cejay825
Glen When you say motors are you use more than one ?
Naw just one. my fingers don't know how to type. Brain works ok but the fingers have a mind of their own. Atleast thats what my wife tells me.

Glen

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Old 09-17-2005, 04:22 PM
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Um, am I missing something here ??
I have had a 68 for the past 24 years and the only trouble I ever had with the vacuum system was a drooping door that was easily fixed with a new over-center spring, and a rusted out actuator that I originally fixed with a steel washer and some silicone. I did replace the bushings and hoses when I did the full restoration. It is such a simple system I can't imagine wanting to change it unless you guys are just doing the mod for the fun of it. All the parts are available repro, so that can't be it. Have I just been incredibly lucky not to have constant trouble with the hideaways ?

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Old 09-18-2005, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul6874
Have I just been incredibly lucky not to have constant trouble with the hideaways ?
No. I had to repair rust damage to the actuators as well and all my stuff works as designed by Pontiac. I haven't had any problems with my hideaways since.

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Old 09-19-2005, 05:53 PM
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cejay825 Do you know part numbers or the actual name of the modules you found. I have a good friend who works the parts counter at a chrysler dealer. I can get the parts for just a little over cost. But she can't find them with my description.

Thanks Glen

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