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thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 01:53 PM

After a very long 2-year wait (and the car sat for a few more years before that) I've finally started on my GTO. Two years ago, I moved the car to a friends shop and he helped me pull the engine. I dis-assembled it and took everything to the local machine shop. He then removed the hood, nose and two front fenders. It then sat for two years waiting for me to get the engine back together. Originally I was just going to cleanup the engine bay and put the engine back in and move on to paint but I've since decided to go frame off. First time trying this and I'm excited about it.

I took several pictures of the engine re-assembly but I don't have them ready to post yet so those will have to wait a bit. I do have a few pics of the completed product.

This is the numbers matching block. Did a basic rebuild with all new clevite bearings, Sealed Power Rings, lifters, and pushrods. Basic checkout on the block and basic 3-way valve job on the heads with new seals. Retained factory crank, rods and pistons. Replaced the cam with Comp Cams XE262 and added a new roller timing chain from Butler Performance. Rear seal is the new GraphTite rope seal. Intake is stock. ARP rod bolts and head bolts replaced the used originals. Added factory headers and a new Timing Chain cover from RARE. Also added a new harmonic balancer and hi-flow aluminum water pump from Summit. Carb will be stock, numbers matching carb. New HEI distributor is also waiting to go in. Stainless hardware is used wherever possible also purchase form Butler Performance. I am currently waiting on a set of stainless sleeves to complete the water pump installation, torque down the intake and bolt on the carb.

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 02:04 PM

Next I complete the tear down on the front clip. Removed the entire engine wiring harness and then removed the core support. Also removed everything off the firewall and cowel so I can strip it and get it ready for paint. Plan to use Eastwood's chassis black to paint both. Last thing I did was to remove everything from the front nose. This is a hideaway car so there were a lot of brackets to take apart. Good news everything was in great shape so I won't have to replace anything other than bolts. Bad news is I took about 50 pictures of the nose BEFORE I started dis-assembleing everything and then someone stole the camera out of the garage I am working in. So when I get ready to re-assemble I may have to ask for some pics for help. I took the inner fenders, core support, vaccum canister, hood springs and all the brackets I had removed from the nose and engine compartment to the local powdercoater and had them shoot them with a nice low gloss black. I already have those parts back and they look awesome.

Here's a few pics of the car with the front clip completely removed:

I found a few rust problems under the chrome strip that installs on top of the lower half of the windshield. I was disappointed as I thought the rust issues were isolated to the rear portion of the car.

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 02:11 PM

Next was getting the body off the frame. This was cool as I've never done this before. We removed the gas tank and tossed it (this one had been leaking and I'll be installing a new one). We also removed the rusty old exhaust system and pitched it to. A few problematic body mounts and some clever lift work and we had the two separated. All told it took less than an hour. Having a lift and air tools REALLY helps.

If anyone wants/needs close-ups of any part of this fully assembled frame, let me know. I took lots of pics.

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 02:20 PM

It only took one more evening and I had completed stripped the frame bare. Its ready to go to the powdercoater. The quote I have to sandblast it, shoot some zinc rich primer on it and then top-coat it with the same low-gloss black is $600. I'm curious if anyone else has had this done and how much it cost.

Here's a pic of me removing the rear end:

And a few of those detail shots:

I will rebuilding the front and rear suspension with all new components. Probably going to use poly-graphite bushings. I've done a lot of reading on these vs. regular rubber. Also replacing all the body mounts, all new stainless brake/fuel lines and all new hardware from inline tube. Also going to completely rebuild front and rear brakes. Haven't made decisions yet on stock rebuilds or mods. At a miminum I'll upgrade the rear drums and install all new hardware and shoes and the front will get upgraded calipers, rotors, pads and braided lines.

UPC-WU2 · 10-09-2009, 02:23 PM

Nice job. Keep it up and keep posting pics.

UPC-WU2 · 10-09-2009, 02:25 PM

Noticed the blacked-out tail panel...

2002Z4CSS · 10-09-2009, 03:08 PM

Thanks for the pictures. I can't wait to get my restoration started.

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UPC-WU2

Noticed the blacked-out tail panel...

Is that not correct? I'm 3rd owner on it and I think its only been through 1 repaint.

webfoot · 10-09-2009, 04:50 PM

Nice work! Engine looks great.

I know price varies by location but for $550 I can get my frame blasted and powdercoated locally, or if I drive down to Portland it'll cost a few hundred less than that.

69goatboy · 10-09-2009, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefirebirdm@n

Is that not correct? I'm 3rd owner on it and I think its only been through 1 repaint.

1st off: great job and thanks for the pics! It always helps for inspiration to see someone else in sort of the same boat.

Secondly, the blacked out tail panel has/is a topic of much debate amongst the Judge and concours resto crowd. Apparently some plants did that and others didn't.

What plant did your car come from? My early Arlington built car has the blacked out panel.

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 05:32 PM

My car was also built in Arlington: BT01487. I believe mine is an early built car as well. All the engine parts are date coded for 68.

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 05:34 PM

I'll get a better shot of it as it is today and post it.

69goatboy · 10-09-2009, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefirebirdm@n

My car was also built in Arlington: BT01487. I believe mine is an early built car as well. All the engine parts are date coded for 68.

Looking at your pics again, I would say that yes, you have an early 69 car. Yours has the quarter rocker mouldings (as mine does too). They stopped using those early in the production year.

stevensd · 10-09-2009, 09:45 PM

[IMG]C:\Users\David\My Pics\photo.jpg[/IMG]

I have a 69 GTO w/o AC. I put the factory AC in the car but have a question on what to do with the two vents behind the dash. they used to have cables that would open and close them.

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69goatboy

Looking at your pics again, I would say that yes, you have an early 69 car. Yours has the quarter rocker mouldings (as mine does too). They stopped using those early in the production year.

Ahhh cool. I didn't know that!!

stevensd · 10-09-2009, 11:24 PM

Could you please post some pictures. i am converting a non AC to a AC using factory parts. i have two fresh air vents under the dash with cables that control the open/close. I would like to see what the AC cars look like in these areas.

PaulatFast · 10-09-2009, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevensd

Could you please post some pictures. i am converting a non AC to a AC using factory parts. i have two fresh air vents under the dash with cables that control the open/close. I would like to see what the AC cars look like in these areas.

The A/C cars had no holes for the vent tubes in the cowl. Remove the flappers and seal the tubes. You will need A/C kick panels upon reassembly.

PaulatFast · 10-09-2009, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69goatboy

Looking at your pics again, I would say that yes, you have an early 69 car. Yours has the quarter rocker mouldings (as mine does too). They stopped using those early in the production year.

You sure? because I'm certainly not. Have a production date for the stoppage of the quarter rocker moldings? I have seen very late 69's with the moldings. Ever notice how many 69 convertables are missing these moldings? That debate is still debatable. Not fact. One thing is for sure, your car is supposed to have them, and it does!

thefirebirdm@n · 10-09-2009, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevensd

Could you please post some pictures. i am converting a non AC to a AC using factory parts. i have two fresh air vents under the dash with cables that control the open/close. I would like to see what the AC cars look like in these areas.

So are you looking for pics of the firewall/cowel area around the A/C suitcase or pics inside the car?

stevensd · 10-10-2009, 12:05 AM

this is the passenger side, inside of the car

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