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#1
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Ball joint questions
My 61 is a driver........and it needs a right lower ball joint replaced.
Don't really want to open the "rebuild full front end" can of worms....at this point in time... Had a good look at the subject...and I'm thinking that if I remove shock,tie rod end and sway bar end link........I should be able to drop lower control arm down enough to separate from steering knuckle...and replace said ball joint. I do have a 4 jaw internal spring compressor to use if needed... Looking for some input...before I start the job.....Thanks |
#2
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No need to worry about the spring, the shock stops it from lowering the lower A frame any further. All you really need to do is split the spindle from the ball joint, lift the upper A frame, and spindle up out of your way, and prop it up with a short piece of 4x4 block under the upper A frame. The sway bar link can stay attached, as can the shock. Turning the wheels so that the tie rods are longest on the side you're working on gives you some extra wiggle room to lift the spindle up easier out of your way. Removing the brake drum will make the spindle, and upper A frame lighter to lift up.
Chisel/cut the rivets off, bolt the new one into the lower A frame and reverse the procedure. I use either a cutting torch to cut the heads off the rivets, or an air chisel, doing it with a hammer, and chisel is quite a workout. If you're driving the rivets out, a jack under the lower A frame keeps the lower A frame from bouncing/flexing, rendering your hammer/air chisel blows less effective. That's the way I've changed dozens of lower ball joints over the years, surely someone else will tell you how they do it, but that's the procedure I've used for over 50 years. I hope that helps you out.
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Brad Yost 1973 T/A (SOLD) 2005 GTO 1984 Grand Prix 100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway? If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated Last edited by Sirrotica; 12-01-2022 at 04:07 AM. |
#3
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I would just add this after doing many of them like Sirrotica. Use a floor jack to support the lower control arm as he suggested. So jack stand under the frame, then floor jack to support the lower control arm. For extra safety, you can wrap a chain around the spring coil and upper control arm and padlock them together. Then there is no way the spring could get away even if the floor jack failed AND the shock pulled apart somehow. Probably overkill. I use a air chisel or a sharp hand chisel with a holder. I don't like to use a torch on classic old cars unless I have to. Too much old grease,oil and old rubber parts to catch on fire. The rivets are only 5/16" on those joints, so they cut fairly easy. First time around, it's a 2-3 hour job to do both sides. Car will drive much better. Good luck.
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#4
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Thanks for all the tips...both of you...
I appreciate your input.... Could have prolly blundered thru it....but like to load my gun...prior to using it... Had another look...and lowers are bolted in...so have been replaced already... As far as doing the uppers.......I'm guessing similar procedure...but remove shock and compress spring? |
#5
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Actually, no. They are easier. The lowers are the load carrying joints, so you have to support the lower arm to keep the spring safe. The uppers are follower joints, (non-loaded). So to be safe, support the lower arm with a floor jack. But once the joint is popped loose from the taper at the ball stud, just unbolt it or cut rivets if original. It's possible there is a specific right and left upper ball joint. Don't know for sure. Check the part numbers. Car will drive so much better with 4 new joints, you won't believe it.
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#6
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More great info...thanks...
I just love working on this car.....it's just so simple.....and NO metric bolts.. |
#7
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I use a Drexel with good fiber cutting wheel to cut an X slot in the rivet heads. Sharp Chisel will slice right thru after that..
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The Following User Says Thank You to rwfisher For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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What is a Drexel? Do you mean Dremel?
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#9
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... but you might need a metric chisel.
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My Pontiac is a '57 GMC with its original 347" Pontiac V8 and dual-range Hydra-Matic. |
#10
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I think I have one that goes both ways..
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