[64speed]

Rebuilding this 468 after the failure. I am using HFT lifters instead of a roller mostly because of cost but also cam availability. I am reading about the EOIC method of adjustment. I think I am picking it up but I have never adjusted valves like that. To be honest I’m the past I just twisted each one between my fingers till I felt resistance and tightened the nut slightly right there without worrying about cam location because I was under the impression that Pontiacs did not have adjustable valve trains (never used poly locks or roller rockers. I am using poly locks and roller tip rockers this time). How do I do this to insure the lifters are turning. I know there is no guarantee against failure but if this one fails I’m gonna cry LOL

[lust4speed]

First off, I never liked twisting pushrods, and found that starting loose and going side to side (fender to fender) tightening down the polylock worked much better for me. Much easier to feel a slight clunk back and forth slowly going away on the rocker arm than determining when friction slightly increases spinning them.

You must set each valve separately if using EOIC. Really pretty simple. Using the firing order start with #1 exhaust and watch for the #1 intake rocker to just start to lift and then go to zero lash plus a half or whatever setting you are using on the intake. The next is #8 and only a partial turn of the crank until you see the #8 intake rocker start to come up. Then continue through the firing order for the rest of the intakes.

Then go back to #1 intake valve and watch for it to open and almost close and then adjust the exhaust. Like above just go through the firing order and you are done. As a precaution, take a flat edge and lay across the polylocks. All polylocks should touch or almost touch the flat edge. If you get a polylock sitting too high or low, then go back and check that adjustment.

One full revolution for setting intake and one full revolution for setting exhaust and you are done.

[68WarDog]

David, great to hear your new combo is coming together. What length pushrods are you now running?

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

You must set each valve separately if using EOIC. Really pretty simple. Using the firing order start with #1 exhaust and watch for the #1 intake rocker to just start to lift and then go to zero lash plus a half or whatever setting you are using on the intake.

Mike: Just a little confused here.

You meant Exhaust rocker just start to lift, set intake . Right?


I know you know what your talking about. Thanks

[track73]

If you don' t have the valley cover on it's easy to see if the lifters are on the base circle. I adjust the valves before I install the cover and intake. If that isn't an option you can also set the number 1 piston at top dead center on the power stroke and set both valves,. then 1/4 crank turn and do number 8 and so on.

[jwhit]

for years ive done this way eo ic
when ext starts to open adjust intake when intake starts to close adjust ext
never had issue

[ta man]

Originally Posted by jwhit

for years ive done this way eo ic
when ext starts to open adjust intake when intake starts to close adjust ext
never had issue

Thats how I do it, I can run thru the valves in less than 10 minutes. I also pull all my plugs so the starter spins easier and also have a bump wire tapped into my starter wire. So I can simply bump the engine from the front.

[jwhit]

Originally Posted by ta man

Thats how I do it, I can run thru the valves in less than 10 minutes. I also pull all my plugs so the starter spins easier and also have a bump wire tapped into my starter wire. So I can simply bump the engine from the front.

hope this dont get me band from fourm but i always put ford style solenoid
on fender well close to battery so wire running to starter is only hot when starting (this started when i drop wrech about 30 years ago and it shorted on starter and i was rushing to get battery unhooked ) now i can have easy spot to pull power and hook my remote start button real easy for adjusting lifters

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by jwhit

for years ive done this way eo ic
when ext starts to open adjust intake when intake starts to close adjust ext
never had issue

Isn't it: Intake valve just about fully closed? Then adjust Exhaust. Just curious. The exhaust is never a question, as It is always written as when it starts to open. The intake on the other hand, I've read fully open then just starts to close, or intake valve fully open then just about closed. some say fully closed. Hmmm. Thoughts. Am I overthinking it?

[Greg Reid]

This might sound crazy to you guys but I saw a guy do this once and I tried it. Worked for me. He simply adjusted every loose rocker until it was snug. Turn one quarter rotation, do it again, one quarter rotation, do it again and then one last time for four quarters. Now, go through the entire rotation again, one quarter at a time. You're done.
Is that crazy? I don't know but it works.

[Skip Fix]

I have always done it single cylinder at a time. That way I can remember which ones I did!

[Kenth]

I like it simple:
The correct way is turn the engine till you have compression on #1 cylinder.
Once you have it on TDC, you adjust the following valves #1,3,4,8, exhaust & #1,2,5,7, inlet.
Then you turn the motor over once back to the timing mark, you are now firing on #6, you adjust #2,5,6,7, exhaust & #3,4,6,8, intake. For hydraulic lifters you back the rocker off till you have play, then you take out all the slack between the push rod & rocker, then you tighten the rocker nut one full turn. This will place the hydraulic lifter plunger half way through it's travel.

After driving around for a while i´ll do a running adjustment, loosening one rocker nut at a time until the rocker clatters, snug it up til it´s quiet and then a full turn.
For this it helps having a valve cover with a cutout roof and some clips on rockers covering the spurt holes.

FWIW

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

...and watch for the #1 intake rocker to just start to lift...

Thanks for correcting my swapping the intake for exhaust. It should read "...and watch for the #1 exhaust rocker to just start to lift...

Hate when that happens

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

This might sound crazy to you guys but I saw a guy do this once and I tried it. Worked for me. He simply adjusted every loose rocker until it was snug. Turn one quarter rotation, do it again, one quarter rotation, do it again and then one last time for four quarters. Now, go through the entire rotation again, one quarter at a time. You're done.
Is that crazy? I don't know but it works.

That's how I do mine except with random rotations of the crank. When they're all snug (0 lash), I go 1/2 turn and lock them down with my polylocks where they stand. Never been a problem, no tickers.

[grivera]

http://www.wallaceracing.com/valvelash.htm

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by jwhit

for years ive done this way eo ic
when ext starts to open adjust intake when intake starts to close adjust ext
never had issue

Same here. Works great

[cnc]

Originally Posted by Kenth

I like it simple:
The correct way is turn the engine till you have compression on #1 cylinder.
Once you have it on TDC, you adjust the following valves #1,3,4,8, exhaust & #1,2,5,7, inlet.
Then you turn the motor over once back to the timing mark, you are now firing on #6, you adjust #2,5,6,7, exhaust & #3,4,6,8, intake. For hydraulic lifters you back the rocker off till you have play, then you take out all the slack between the push rod & rocker, then you tighten the rocker nut one full turn. This will place the hydraulic lifter plunger half way through it's travel.

After driving around for a while i´ll do a running adjustment, loosening one rocker nut at a time until the rocker clatters, snug it up til it´s quiet and then a full turn.
For this it helps having a valve cover with a cutout roof and some clips on rockers covering the spurt holes.

FWIW

Same here for adjusting valves I have a cheat sheet for it...lol

[jwhit]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

Isn't it: Intake valve just about fully closed? Then adjust Exhaust. Just curious. The exhaust is never a question, as It is always written as when it starts to open. The intake on the other hand, I've read fully open then just starts to close, or intake valve fully open then just about closed. some say fully closed. Hmmm. Thoughts. Am I overthinking it?

i let intake fully open and as soon as it starts to close i adjust ext

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 64speed

How do I do this to insure the lifters are turning. I know there is no guarantee against failure but if this one fails I’m gonna cry LOL

I'm sure you know adjusting the lifters properly and making sure all are spinning are two different things. When I've adjusted HFT lifters in the past with engine not running, I have seen the lifters and pushrod rotating. I suggest you put a mark on each pushrod with a Sharpie so you can verify they are rotating. Also, make sure the lifters don't hang up in their bores and that your camshaft endplay is set properly.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Kenth

I like it simple:
The correct way is turn the engine till you have compression on #1 cylinder.
Once you have it on TDC, you adjust the following valves #1,3,4,8, exhaust & #1,2,5,7, inlet.
Then you turn the motor over once back to the timing mark, you are now firing on #6, you adjust #2,5,6,7, exhaust & #3,4,6,8, intake. For hydraulic lifters you back the rocker off till you have play, then you take out all the slack between the push rod & rocker, then you tighten the rocker nut one full turn. This will place the hydraulic lifter plunger half way through it's travel.

After driving around for a while i´ll do a running adjustment, loosening one rocker nut at a time until the rocker clatters, snug it up til it´s quiet and then a full turn.
For this it helps having a valve cover with a cutout roof and some clips on rockers covering the spurt holes.

FWIW

ive done it this way also, thats the common SBC procedure. but i have read that once the cam duration gets too big, that way can become inaccurate since the lobe isnt in the ideal location, not sure how true that is maybe some of the experts can comment on that procedure on larger duration cams. it has worked on smaller cams i have done like a xe268, but for the OF roller i chose to do the EO/IC way for each valve.

also very important to follow what the lifter manufacturer says for preload, each lifter is different, a short travel for example doesnt use 1 full turn, some ive seen are 1/4-1/2 turn after zero lash.