[grivera]

My bird is a street car that will be raced about 10x a year. The engine dynoed at 522 hp/631 tq so I’m concerned if I hook with slicks I will have massive axle wrap. My car has low mile multi-leaf springs. I am considering Comp engineering slide a link bars but I’m not crazy about how they look or the lost ground clearance. Fwiw, I will be upgrading my rear, driveshaft, and u-joints.

Am I overly concerned?

What are other solutions for axle wrap?

[Murf]

http://www.calvertracing.com/index.php

I had good luck with these.

Murf

Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk

[grivera]

Thanks- what are alternatives to this type of set-up?

[Formulajones]

Cal Tracs that Murf posted work excellent. Even old slapper bars still get the job done if you want a little nostalgia day 2.

In the PS and F.A.S.T. classes these devices aren't allowed.

So what I've done is clamp the front halves of the springs, then play with the rubber pinion snubber above the center section. Some cars have bolt on snubbers and some don't. Mopars used to do that effectively back in the day. Works very well on mild HP street cars.

If not afraid of day 2 looks and not restricted by rules, I prefer the simple slapper bar deal. Cheap and easy, and setup properly work well.

[Lee]

Calvert also has excellent leaf springs. They are a 2-piece "monoleaf" design - the front leaf is VERY rigid to prevent axle wrap (built-in traction bar) while the rear-half of the spring is softer and gives you a decent ride.

I ordered a pair of these for my old Falcon project. It was not a "shelf" item, so I had to provide a bunch of measurements to them. When I installed them, the ride height was too low. I called back and discussed the situation, and they had me take a bunch more measurements. A few days later, a new set of rear-half springs arrived - at no cost to me, not even shipping. Once installed the ride height was EXACTLY where I wanted it. They even sent me prepaid tags to ship the first set back. Some of the best customer service I've encountered in this hobby.

[grivera]

I suppose the rear has to be set up for mono-leafs to accomodate the Calvert leafs?

[Lee]

Originally Posted by grivera

I suppose the rear has to be set up for mono-leafs to accomodate the Calvert leafs?

Call them to verify. I had multileaf springs on my Falcon, and the Calverts bolted in and worked fine with no other changes.

[Formulajones]

If they don't make the mono to fit the multi flange (I think they do) they also make small spacers for that instance as well.

[grivera]

I just looked on their site and it looks like they sell a spacer multileaf

[RocktimusPryme]

For those that have done the Calvert mono leafs how bolt in are they? Seems I remember reading the directions at some modifications were required.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Old school slapper bars work pretty well and are easily removed, as well as a adjustable pinion snubber. As FJ nailed it. It's all the issues of using and containing these monsters that derailed my desire for a "big" one.

[Cliff R]

I set my Ventura up many years ago by welding the axle tubes to the carrier, made an adjustable pinion snubber, installed springs designed for drag racing with the thick front sections, clamped the front sections, and adjustable drag shocks. At the same time I welded in sub-frame connectors and removed the front sway bar and adjustable front drag shocks. It has a GM 8.5 diff. Hooks SOLID on 8" wide DOT tires mounted on stock 7" rims. 60' times are usually in the 1.59-1.61 range on a good track with decent air, and it slows to 1.61-1.64 in really hot/humid weather. NONE of the stock parts lasted vary long inside the housing, so it now has a 1350 forged yoke, US Gear R/P, Eaton carrier and Mosier axles with C-clip elim's. That took care of breaking parts. The only other problems I've had are twisting the spring perches off the axle tubes and had to re-weld and reinforce the welds.

I prefer this set-up to any sort of visible traction devices and hate the look of any sort of "slapper" bar hanging under the car.......Cliff

[Formulajones]

Slapper bars for the win!!!

[grivera]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

I set my Ventura up many years ago by welding the axle tubes to the carrier, made an adjustable pinion snubber, installed springs designed for drag racing with the thick front sections, clamped the front sections, and adjustable drag shocks. At the same time I welded in sub-frame connectors and removed the front sway bar and adjustable front drag shocks. It has a GM 8.5 diff. Hooks SOLID on 8" wide DOT tires mounted on stock 7" rims. 60' times are usually in the 1.59-1.61 range on a good track with decent air, and it slows to 1.61-1.64 in really hot/humid weather. NONE of the stock parts lasted vary long inside the housing, so it now has a 1350 forged yoke, US Gear R/P, Eaton carrier and Mosier axles with C-clip elim's. That took care of breaking parts. The only other problems I've had are twisting the spring perches off the axle tubes and had to re-weld and reinforce the welds.

I prefer this set-up to any sort of visible traction devices and hate the look of any sort of "slapper" bar hanging under the car.......Cliff

Great post Cliff! Do you have pictures of the adjustable pinion snubber? What brand drag radials?

[AG]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

For those that have done the Calvert mono leafs how bolt in are they? Seems I remember reading the directions at some modifications were required.

I have the Calvert split monoleafs with their Caltracs on the race car and they work excellent. Cars into the 8s use that set-up, I will be using them in my street Firebird when I change the motor.

[Skip Fix]

Another option if they still make them are Tri City Launcher springs. The NHRA stocker guys used them before Calvert came on the scene. basically a copy of the old Mopar Super Stocker springs with the front leaf pack really stiff and second spring all the way to the front spring eye and clamped. I think John Schloe the old first gen F body Stocker used them back in the day and turned me on to them.

[ta man]

Originally Posted by grivera

Great post Cliff! Do you have pictures of the adjustable pinion snubber? What brand drag radials?

If you do a search for Adjustable Pinion Snubbers, you will find quite a bit of information especially with the older Mopars and Fox body mustangs.These pictures will give you an idea.

[Cliff R]

"Great post Cliff! Do you have pictures of the adjustable pinion snubber? What brand drag radials?"

No pics but mine is similar to the one on the left above, but mounts to the vehicle instead of the diff.

I've tried just about every DOT out there except for Nitto's. Currently using 255/60-15 Mickey Thompson ET Street radials. They do a great job but don't last very long. They require a log burnout to get some heat in them, so are getting pretty thin at 40-50 runs or so, worn smooth by 60 runs, then you get a few really good runs till the cords show!

The previous ET Street's (bias ply) lasted for hundreds of runs, as they are pretty much just a slick with two grooves cut in them. They require very little burnout, but no nearly as stable on the top end of the track as the radials.......Cliff

[Formulas]

I made a set of springs similar to the tri'city springs from 2 old sets,
Cut the eyes off of one main spring set installed that spring against the main spring im using then bumped the smallest spring from the stack

That effectivly stiffens up the front segment reducing wrap up making it a bit more like a solid trailing arm while the back provides same ride

This particular set is for a stick car that isnt finished yet

[Skip Fix]

I've got Tri City's on my TA and have 60 ft'd 1.5s with just 9" slicks and seen other guys 1.3-1.4 60 fts with those as the only traction device.