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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#21
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100% great advice. Play with an old panel till you’re happy. If you prefer it’s done in single stage I’d pick some up and play with it till you’re confident. There are too many variables even outside of temp/humidity to risk shooting a whole car without being as confident as possible. Paint isn’t cheap but sacrificing $200 in test materials is nothing compared to doubling that amount and adding a zero.
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#22
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Don |
#23
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supplies & equipment
Like I said, even though I have painted one car, theres so much to learn.
Really did not realize single stage is just urethane clear with the pigment added. I get the 2 stage would make metallic colors and deep colors appear nicer. but would it for white? and why is it that single stage is more prone to not laying out flat and with more chance of orange peel? I plan to get a better spray gun for paint this time around, the one pictured I will use for primers. iv'e since learned a lot more about gun adjustment and I do have an old hood and fender I can practice on. I painted my last car with it. l now, the water remover set up I have is not a big deal, don't know if better is needed or not. between it and the disposable filter at the gun, I did not seem to have a water problem. dont even get water in the small sight glass filter on it. I dont use a regulator at the gun, is that a must? i'm asking questions early so I can review all the info, right now I am in the filler application & sand and block stage. long way to go but going real well. sounds like I cannot use my everrcoat polyester superbuild and remain compatible with the epoxy primer so I will stick with using just epoxy primer. Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 10:54 AM. |
#24
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Get a small regulator for the gun so you know what the pressure at the gun is. The paint tech sheet will tell you the recommended pressure.
Depth of the paint is also kinda misused and very debatable. Any paint will look great once you polish out all the fine scratches. The fine scratches that show in flourescent light are what causes paint to look dull. Remove all the scratches and you have a crystal clear view of the color. Obtainable with base/clear or single stage. This Corvette is single stage universal black in the shade.
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#25
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Epoxy primer can be used with polyester primer. I do it all the time. They are compatible. I painted this car in SPI black single stage. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...c-firebird-43/ Don |
#26
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It is doable without a paint booth, this is only the 2nd car I've painted and both in my garage.
You're going to have to sand some peel so prepare for that. I use 600, 1000, 1500, and then 2000, and a good orbital buffer. First pic with no trim is with no workover, so as out of the gun, bc/cc. I don't even use an expensive gun, its a devilbiss FL3. 2nd pic is after cutting & buffing. Untitled by JL Clark, on Flickr Untitled by JL Clark, on Flickr
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
#27
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Single stage should ONLY be used on SOLID colors, NO metallic, No Pearl for a DYI set up. Why?
In single stage the mettalic and or pearls are suspended in the paint, and will sit in any imperfection and look darker there. Also the metallic can " run" inside the coat causing a " zebra effect". Base/ clear gets you a LOT of UV protection, especially the SPI paints.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#28
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For solid colors, you can also use a mix of single stage and clear for the final coat. On many paint lines anyway. This is done to get a somewhat tougher top coat while avoiding the clear coat look.
Check the P sheets for compatibility but I think most are OK up to around 50%. You mix the ready to spray single stage with ready to spray clear. |
#29
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Orange peal fear.
1. Never use a 1.4 nozzle 1.2 or 1.3 is much better 2. 1.3 to 1.5 bar, no more 3. Slow or med reducer. 4. Let sit 20 min between coats to avoid solvent pop.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#30
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what is a 1.3 to 1.5 bar? what is the most common reducer? thank you, I appreciate all the help I can get. |
#31
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1 bar = 14.5 psi
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#32
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Don't worry about orange peel , you can always wet sand and buff it. Just put 3 or 4 coats of clear.
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#33
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When you produce orange peel on flat surfaces, you can get solvent pop. ( hood roof deck lid)
Finer mist ( 1.2-1.3 tip) with 75% overlap and slower reducer/hardener and good wait times of 15-25 minutes will eliminate possible solvent pop, and eliminate sanding 1 coat of clear off. Most likely will still buff off 1 coat though.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#34
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I would say "don't panic" if you get some orange peel, specially if you have enough coats of clear. If you are painting at 70 degrees or warmer ... use the slowest reducer possible, the slower the better in my opinion. I have some direct experience with this from painting on a late afternoon when the sun had warmed one side of the car a tad more than the other ... the warmer side had noticeably worse peel as it didn't have as much time to settle down.
The finer mist you can get the better ... but I gotta admit I had a hard time making that happen with a Iwata gun with a 1.3 without using about 30 psi. (although that was at the gun inlet, no idea what it was at the cap). Regardless, some orange peel just means some quality time with your car to get to know all it's curves
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