#21  
Old 11-06-2022, 06:43 PM
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Entropy11 Entropy11 is offline
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Originally Posted by Rob in NH View Post
Practice spraying a panel , try different settings and different air pressure. If you don't have an old panel ask your local body shop for a damage one in their junk pile.
100% great advice. Play with an old panel till you’re happy. If you prefer it’s done in single stage I’d pick some up and play with it till you’re confident. There are too many variables even outside of temp/humidity to risk shooting a whole car without being as confident as possible. Paint isn’t cheap but sacrificing $200 in test materials is nothing compared to doubling that amount and adding a zero.

  #22  
Old 11-06-2022, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JUDGE3 View Post
so my first ever paint job I used base/clear. I wet sanded the color coat, no issues there other than the work. I had a very tough time spraying the clear. orange peel real bad. I was able to wet sand all the orange peel out but I was left with to many very fine sand scratches in areas even after polishing it a lot. I may have had my gun set wrong I dont know.

so I have this pre built in fear of shooting the clear coat now due to that experience.

but, the single stage paint has this stigma to me of a cheesy maco job. also if you dont shoot it very very well it sounds like your toast and stuck with a classic orange peel job. if that happens I would let it cure and redo the entire car. in fact if im not happy with either system i choose i will redo the entire car. have to much hard work and all new metal in this one to accept mediocrity.

but......painting a white car, if I could shoot it really well, single stage sounds fine to. gonna be a game day decision. leaning towards base/clear because I want another chance to beat the clear coat demon and get it right and have vindication. ha, i'm like that.
Single stage urethane is just clear with pigment added so they spray the same with the same gun settings and techniques.

Don

  #23  
Old 11-07-2022, 02:57 PM
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Like I said, even though I have painted one car, theres so much to learn.

Really did not realize single stage is just urethane clear with the pigment added. I get the 2 stage would make metallic colors and deep colors appear nicer. but would it for white? and why is it that single stage is more prone to not laying out flat and with more chance of orange peel?

I plan to get a better spray gun for paint this time around, the one pictured I will use for primers. iv'e since learned a lot more about gun adjustment and I do have an old hood and fender I can practice on. I painted my last car with it. l

now, the water remover set up I have is not a big deal, don't know if better is needed or not. between it and the disposable filter at the gun, I did not seem to have a water problem. dont even get water in the small sight glass filter on it.

I dont use a regulator at the gun, is that a must? i'm asking questions early so I can review all the info, right now I am in the filler application & sand and block stage. long way to go but going real well.

sounds like I cannot use my everrcoat polyester superbuild and remain compatible with the epoxy primer so I will stick with using just epoxy primer.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 10:54 AM.
  #24  
Old 11-07-2022, 04:27 PM
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Get a small regulator for the gun so you know what the pressure at the gun is. The paint tech sheet will tell you the recommended pressure.

Depth of the paint is also kinda misused and very debatable. Any paint will look great once you polish out all the fine scratches. The fine scratches that show in flourescent light are what causes paint to look dull. Remove all the scratches and you have a crystal clear view of the color.

Obtainable with base/clear or single stage.

This Corvette is single stage universal black in the shade.
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  #25  
Old 11-07-2022, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JUDGE3 View Post
Like I said, even though I have painted one car, theres so much to learn.

Really did not realize single stage is just urethane clear with the pigment added. I get the 2 stage would make metallic colors and deep colors appear nicer. but would it for white? and why is it that single stage is more prone to not laying out flat and with more chance of orange peel?

I plan to get a better spray gun for paint this time around, the one pictured I will use for primers. iv'e since learned a lot more about gun adjustment and I do have an old hood and fender I can practice on. I painted my last car with it. l

now, the water remover set up I have is not a big deal, don't know if better is needed or not. between it and the disposable filter at the gun, I did not seem to have a water problem. dont even get water in the small sight glass filter on it.

I dont use a regulator at the gun, is that a must? i'm asking questions early so I can review all the info, right now I am in the filler application & sand and block stage. long way to go but going real well.

sounds like I cannot use my everrcoat polyester superbuild and remain compatible with the epoxy primer so I will stick with using just epoxy primer.
Single stage is not more prone to not lying out flat and orange peel. That is simply not true.

Epoxy primer can be used with polyester primer. I do it all the time. They are compatible.

I painted this car in SPI black single stage.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...c-firebird-43/

Don

  #26  
Old 11-08-2022, 04:00 AM
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It is doable without a paint booth, this is only the 2nd car I've painted and both in my garage.
You're going to have to sand some peel so prepare for that. I use 600, 1000, 1500, and then 2000, and a good orbital buffer.
First pic with no trim is with no workover, so as out of the gun, bc/cc. I don't even use an expensive gun, its a devilbiss FL3.
2nd pic is after cutting & buffing.
Untitled by JL Clark, on Flickr
Untitled by JL Clark, on Flickr

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  #27  
Old 11-09-2022, 02:23 PM
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Single stage should ONLY be used on SOLID colors, NO metallic, No Pearl for a DYI set up. Why?
In single stage the mettalic and or pearls are suspended in the paint, and will sit in any imperfection and look darker there. Also the metallic can " run" inside the coat causing a " zebra effect".
Base/ clear gets you a LOT of UV protection, especially the SPI paints.

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  #28  
Old 11-09-2022, 02:53 PM
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For solid colors, you can also use a mix of single stage and clear for the final coat. On many paint lines anyway. This is done to get a somewhat tougher top coat while avoiding the clear coat look.

Check the P sheets for compatibility but I think most are OK up to around 50%. You mix the ready to spray single stage with ready to spray clear.

  #29  
Old 11-13-2022, 02:37 PM
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Orange peal fear.
1. Never use a 1.4 nozzle 1.2 or 1.3 is much better
2. 1.3 to 1.5 bar, no more
3. Slow or med reducer.
4. Let sit 20 min between coats to avoid solvent pop.

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  #30  
Old 11-13-2022, 06:26 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulabruce View Post
Orange peal fear.
1. Never use a 1.4 nozzle 1.2 or 1.3 is much better
2. 1.3 to 1.5 bar, no more
3. Slow or med reducer.
4. Let sit 20 min between coats to avoid solvent pop.
my spray gun is a 1.3

what is a 1.3 to 1.5 bar?

what is the most common reducer?

thank you, I appreciate all the help I can get.

  #31  
Old 11-14-2022, 07:54 AM
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1 bar = 14.5 psi

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  #32  
Old 11-14-2022, 01:49 PM
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Don't worry about orange peel , you can always wet sand and buff it. Just put 3 or 4 coats of clear.

  #33  
Old 11-14-2022, 03:37 PM
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When you produce orange peel on flat surfaces, you can get solvent pop. ( hood roof deck lid)
Finer mist ( 1.2-1.3 tip) with 75% overlap and slower reducer/hardener and good wait times of 15-25 minutes will eliminate
possible solvent pop, and eliminate sanding 1 coat of clear off. Most likely will still buff off 1 coat though.

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  #34  
Old 11-14-2022, 05:07 PM
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I would say "don't panic" if you get some orange peel, specially if you have enough coats of clear. If you are painting at 70 degrees or warmer ... use the slowest reducer possible, the slower the better in my opinion. I have some direct experience with this from painting on a late afternoon when the sun had warmed one side of the car a tad more than the other ... the warmer side had noticeably worse peel as it didn't have as much time to settle down.

The finer mist you can get the better ... but I gotta admit I had a hard time making that happen with a Iwata gun with a 1.3 without using about 30 psi. (although that was at the gun inlet, no idea what it was at the cap).

Regardless, some orange peel just means some quality time with your car to get to know all it's curves

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