[techteacher5561]

I stumbled on a 1980 TA for sale locally. Might be worth an investment, but i've several questions that maybe someone can assist with.

Body seems decent but is has some cracking body up near the roof pass side - trying to describe it- it's between the T top and rear glass but not all the way up to the roof, but the "curved" section where the roof goes down into the quarter panel. Is this a common thing?
Or does it mean it was "wacked" in an accident?
Or does it mean a quarter was put on and a bad prep job?

One ding in where the drivers fender meets the nose (kid hit mom's car backing up one day)
and the paint is peeling on the nose in multiple spots. littel bubble where the D/S fender meets the hood- oh missing the shaker hood pan for the air cleaner, shaker is held tot he hood with little metal bars screwed to the under side of the hood.

Car supposedly has a 455- I found it is a YC block, but the 6X heads makes me think its a 400 out of a later 76-77 TA.
Has a Torker intake (not a T2) Edlebrock carb and rusty headers dual exhaust.

Took a flash light but couldn't see around the HEi to look at the date codes near the distributor. underneath looks decent 10 bolt limited slip w sway bar in rear. Welded in square stock for sub frame connectors.

Interior needs cleaning, seat covers and foam, dash pad, someones added gagues to the dash.

He said he's take $5000 for it but I'm thinking 4000 is more like it.

Any ideas where else I should look for hidden rust etc?

With the 455 I'd maybe go 4, but with a 400,,, $3000 tops- Am I crazy to go that high?

Howard

[2manyT/A'S]

The 6x heads are a common performance upgrade for a 455 & are a good thing.

Check the side of the block underneath,behind the fuel pump for displacement. It is cast into the block.

The area you describe in the roof is where the quarter panel joins the roof & it is typical for the factory body work to show cracks,but also could be older non-factory filler as well.

Check the roof panel in between the t-tops near the back for buckling/bad bodywork.

Also check cowl behind distributer for buckling/cracking.

These are stress/flex areas especially on T-top cars with too many hard launches/big motor drag race history

If the car has any rust issues,I'd say the price is high.

Dashes for these cars are EXPENSIVE & hard to find.

Check all the usuall places for rust; Bottoms of fenders & rear quarters, behind rear bumper, floors below pedals & under back seats,windshield lower corners & where the rocker panels meet the rear quarter. (also rad support UNDER battery tray.

[techteacher5561]

Thank you for the reply.

I'm torn, I'd love a TA, and if it has the 455 oh boy that'd be cool. I may find time to go back and look closer at body issues.

probably only a $3500-4000 car.

Can't hurt to look some more.

Howard

[bonneville Joe]

Personally that sounds really high for a car that has been royally messed with. I'd wait if I was you on another car. I was in the same boat. I wanted a late 2nd gen T/A so bad it hurt and I could have wasted my money on alot of sub-par cars but I waited and found my 4spd SE and no car I've seen since could replace that car.

[Skip Fix]

"These are stress/flex areas especially on T-top cars with too many hard launches/big motor drag race history" They are also because the factory only used 3 spot welds per side on T top cars then spread some lead over it. Mine recracked just pulling it in and out of the body shop while in primer. We pullout the lead welded the entire seam and then re lead/fillered it.

Got a nice fresh paint 81 with a 400 in it and thew 30T on a stand!