[gto4evr]

I bought my convertible glass from the "$99.99 hardtop $119.99 convertible" stand down at the Carlisle PA show somewhere around 2003ish. I had issues installing it a few years ago with it being too short at the upper corners. I also had the increase the lower spacers a bit to get it to catch enough for my comfort and the upper trim piece barely covers it on the corners. Now the 67 windshield I bought 3 or 4 years ago off that place on ebay that had outlets all over the country so you'd just pay and pick up at the one closest to you (I can't remember the name of the place but that replacement windshield fit like a glove on the 67). Can't find any auctions resembling that place now so I'll have to drive over to that warehouse one of these days to see if they're still there and what the name of the place was. No idea if the glass deal is like the dynacorn one supplier for 50 different companies thing. I've still got the windshield for my Judge sitting in the attic I bought at the same time as I did that vert windshield. Hopefully the hardtop glass fits better than that vert windshield did.

[68ragtop]

I am less than exciting about using this glass. I taped a bunch a short 3/8" OD vacuum hose around the perimeter to test fit & simulate the butyl seal. I was thinking all I would need to do is adjust the bump stops so I can drop it in for a perfect fit. its nowhere near them. If I install this, the butyl will be visible at the bottom as the stainless trim will just barely cover the edge of the glass. IT also doesn't follow the top header very well, a little low in the center & that glass arcs off at the bottom center about 1/4" I can push it down easy enough, so I am guessing that not too abnormal? The glass seems to have enough flex to compensate for that. But I have no good way of stretching it.

[68ragtop]

Heres a couple pictures:

With the stop all the way tot he top of its adjustment travel, I still need about 1/2" in height. From the stop area upwards the glass itself measures just over 22" I double anybody has a vert windshield without trim around it to compare, but I am curious what others have run into.

The glass could easily be 5/8" taller & fit much better. If this glass is an oddball I will pursue something else. Getting really used to doing that

Otherwise, I can make some 1/2" spacers, but I don't like how close the edge of the glass ends up to the edge of the stainless. I know in the pictures I have it fairly close to the clip pins, but If I lower it, it falls too low in the center top area. It doesn't follow the curve of the header all that well..

.

[bkmont]

Originally Posted by north

This factory pic shows a 68 GTO ragtop without either soft ray option so completely clear windshield. It was common in that era for factory pics to use clear windshields even sometimes on expensive models. I guess to better show the interior.

One day, I hope my red red vert looks like that!

[PurelyGTO68]

I didn't measure mine but I do remember that I had to adjust the two lower stops to their highest position to get the glass to fit the way I liked. It could have been a little taller for sure....

[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

I didn't measure mine but I do remember that I had to adjust the two lower stops to their highest position to get the glass to fit the way I liked. It could have been a little taller for sure....

Can I ask what brand glass do you have? As you can see from my picture, my adjusters are all the way up & its is still 1/2" short.
Sides fit nice & uniform.

[68ragtop]

I talked to Pilkington today. They measured a few of these screens they had on the shelf. They said they all measured 22-3/8" in the center (same as mine) so what I have is not an anomaly.

Can anyone confirm their windshield height? I realize this is not possible unless you have upper & lower trim removed & I don't expect or want anybody to do that

Have to believe a correct fitting glass is at the very least, 22-3/4" in the center.

[bkmont]

I measured the one I pulled out of my car about 4 years ago. It appears to be a replacement from way back. It's stuck up in the rafters of my shop. My tape pulled across the center measured 22 1/4". I would have to pull it down and clean the dust off of it to find out the name brand.
Bryan

[68ragtop]

Thanks for taking the time to measure yours. Your measurement finding is interesting. Makes me think maybe short is the norm. I was pretty sure my original glass was resting on the adjustable stops at the cowl, but that was may years ago. It's been nearly 2 decades since this car had a piece of glass installed. Right now I fudged the top down to were the lowest area at the top is just over 3/8" mounting surface, just enough for the butyl strip. This leaves me with about 3/8" from the bump stops. I made 1/2" nylon spacers & adjusted the bump stop to hold the glass in the right place. Then made my reference marks for install. So, I guess it will go in as is.

I Just find it strange that its not a little bit closer. The only downside otherwise is the butyl will be visible at the bottom looking straight down & that stuff always collects dust & debris over time & looks bad. If the glass was 1/2 longer, it would complexly disappear behind the stanless bottom trim. I also thought about having it put in with urethane, but I have never seen a smooth bead of that stuff. All the windshield install guys have the luxury of the late model black band hiding their adhesive beads

[Gtozy]

Just measured my original glass, it’s 22 5/16” at the centre. The pic below is of the Pilkington numbers of the new glass I recently had fitted with no issues.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[68ragtop]

Thanks for checking! starting to look like that is the common size. What is the DW752? Mine is a 711 tinted, shaded, no antenna.

[north]

Bear in mind the butyl that Ames sells is too thin. They sell the same thickness for windshield and rear glass but the windshield needs a thicker one. Don’t quote me but I think the correct butyl is 3/8’ in front and 1/4” rear.

Also note if your looking for used original windshield keep in mind there are three sizes of 69-72 A body windshields. The convertibles have the shortest and a different shape up top, next all other two doors share a taller unit. Finally all 4 door models including wagons is a further 3/4” taller than the regular two door windshields.

[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by north

Bear in mind the butyl that Ames sells is too thin. They sell the same thickness for windshield and rear glass but the windshield needs a thicker one. Don’t quote me but I think the correct butyl is 3/8’ in front and 1/4” rear.

I'm thinking that it's 5/16 on the front. I know what I used on my 71 was WAY too thick and I could barely get the trim on which is up too high because the glass isn't down deep enough. I really think I used 3/8 on that one. That memory always reminds me to go down one size and I don't think it comes in anything bigger than 3/8. Near positive I used 5/16 on both the 67 and 69 vert windshields I did relatively recently. I've never put a rear window back into a 68-72 (yet, I'll be doing it on my Judge some time this century I hope) but I used the 5/16 on the back window of the 67. I'll have to see about this 1/4 in the back, that seems awfully thin but again, I've got no experience on that one.

[north]

As I said, I’m not sure of the sizes but I know that the size Ames sells is perfect in back and too thin for the windshield. I have notes at work. I’ll check them tomorrow

[Gtozy]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

Thanks for checking! starting to look like that is the common size. What is the DW752? Mine is a 711 tinted, shaded, no antenna.

Same but with the antenna.

[68ragtop]

I had mine test fitted with 3/8" od vacuum line taped to the backside edges in various locations. The overall thinkness with the glass I think will be perfect!
I will likely be putting it in this weekend & back to more stainless polishing.......

[north]

You want the butyl a bit thicker than it would appear because you really need to push hard to avoid leaks especially in corners where the windshield jam sheetmetal overlays are. Caulking guns have no place in old cars, you can never get it straight enough, designed, as someone mentioned earlier for modern cars with shaded areas to hide it.

[Greg Reid]

It's a lot easier to get a full seal (with butyl tape) on a nice, hot day in the sun.

[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by north

You want the butyl a bit thicker than it would appear because you really need to push hard to avoid leaks especially in corners where the windshield jam sheetmetal overlays are. Caulking guns have no place in old cars, you can never get it straight enough, designed, as someone mentioned earlier for modern cars with shaded areas to hide it.

That was my mention above. I watched a guy put in a screen on one of my cars a few years back. Electric caulk gun with a fairly even thickness, but crazy wiggles & lumps. All gone from the interior trim & blacked out edges.

I plan to work the seal to make sure there are no low areas. & make those upper corners a little thicker. those do look like the tough to seal areas. I remember replacing a lot of windshields with friends back in the early 80's bought used ones from junk yards & removed them ourselves. until the urethanes came into the picture anyway. amazing how strong that stuff is.

assembly manual shows using both types. keeping the butyl inward & a bead of sealant on the outside. I barely have enough contact area top and bottom of the glass as it is, sure not going to add that to the mix