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Old 03-13-2021, 07:12 PM
John V. John V. is offline
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Default Refrigerator Repair Advice Wanted

21 yo Jenn-Air Refrigerator Model JCD2289ATB came with the new to us house. Side by Side type. I have found a complete parts diagram for this model on-line. https://www.partselect.com/Models/JCD2289ATB/

It runs continuously. Initially, it seemed to turn off on very rare occasion but now I never hear it stop. I've googled it, indications are some fault with the defrost system but....

The home had been very lightly used between 2004 and 2019 when we moved in. I noted that the bottom of the freezer formed a cake of ice, thick enough that it would freeze the lower basket in place. I diagnosed that as a clogged drain line.

At the same time, the flapper on the ice/water dispenser had become balky, sometimes not closing without manual assist. I assumed the return spring had broken or weakened.

Shut it off and took it apart from inside the freezer to access the drain. After a bit of work, I was able to to unclog the drain and get water to flow thru.

Back in service, the freezer floor remains dry after a few months. That problem solved.

While I cleared the drain, a lot of water was draining from the freezer door itself as ice apparently was melting from inside the door.

I kept it turned off until water stopped draining from the door. When I put it all back together, surprise, surprise, the flapper began working flawlessly again. Apparently the spring was fine, ice build-up must have been impeding the flapper closing. Another problem solved.

Although I have no idea how or why ice formed inside the door in the first place.

Prior to all that, I had opened the back to access the compressor area, thinking coils might need cleaning. I didn't see any obvious issues which was surprising. Former owner had 2 cats when they were here, thought for sure I'd find cat hair but didn't.

While I had it opened up, I did clean the condenser fan blades just to lighten the load but they really weren't all that dirty.

All of that just trying to understand why the fridge ran as much as it did.

And now, it seems it is running continuously.

I haven't actually looked at the evaporator coil, I've just assumed it isn't frosted over

Except for the non-stop running, it seemed the freezer was staying cold, ice cream stays hard. Refrigerator also was staying cold, milk staying cold, butter hard, etc.

One other thing we noticed from the beginning, the door jamb between the 2 doors stays pretty warm. From what I read, I concluded this was a "feature" to keep condensate from forming on the jamb although it seemed kinda dumb or at least inefficient to keep the jamb so warm.

This refrig has what they call an Adaptive Defrost Control Board. Haven't figured out its purpose or what happens if it fails. Or how to test it.

So yesterday I decided to see what I could do to resolve the continuous compressor operation.

I could be wrong, but seems to me if the defrost system has quit, I would be having trouble keeping the fridge cold.

The fridge is semi "built-in" so not real easy to get to the back to listen for the compressor. The noise I'm hearing is pronounced inside the freezer compartment. I'm thinking I'm hearing the condenser fan?

But I went ahead and pulled the fridge out and the compressor is also running non-stop.

So that was where I was at when I attempted to check it out.

First thing I did was turn the freezer temp control to OFF.

That proved to be a mistake.

I should have checked the temps BEFORE I shut it OFF but I didn't. Turned it back on and sensed that the fridge side was getting warm. Stuck a digital thermometer inside the freezer and got 3.9 F.

Moved the thermometer to the fridge side and it started to climb all the way to 60+. At that point, I panicked and emptied the thing into my garage fridge.

Shut it off overnight and contemplated what to do. Plugged it in this morning with my thermometer in the freezer. It steadily dropped the temp. I have the freezer control set to slightly BELOW the Mid point marking on the scale.

After about 6 hrs the temp is reading MINUS 1.2 F. I believe anything from -5 to +5 is acceptable for the freezer so freezer seems good.

After that checked out I wised up and got a 2nd thermometer and put it in the fridge. It seems to be stuck at 59 F.

I have no idea how this happened. All I have done so far is move the freezer temp control to OFF and then back on. Surely the fridge was staying colder than 59 before that or food would have spoiled. But since I didn't check it before I turned it off, I'm not sure.

Regardless, this is where I'm at now.

Whatever the problem, maybe it is why the compressor doesn't ever stop.

The noise wasn't really bothering us. Mainly I'm thinking I'm using way too much kWh because it never quits running. Not to mention wearing out the compressor.

The website I linked suggests that the Adaptive Defrost Control Board fixes a fridge not cold 50% of the time. I found one cheap enough and ordered it in case it has failed, I already have it on the way.

But since I have no idea what it does or how to test it, so far I am only throwing darts.

The other major part to fix a fridge not cold 23% of the time is the Defrost Heater & Thermostat Assembly. Can I test this part with a multimeter? What am I looking for if I do?

Would failure of the ADCB or the Heater & Thermostat Assembly be causing the compressor to run continuously? If the freezer compartment gets to the freezer temp setpoint on the Freezer Temp control, shouldn't the compressor shut off then? Or does the fridge temp over-ride that somehow?

Any advice?

  #2  
Old 03-13-2021, 11:51 PM
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ponyakr ponyakr is offline
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"...21 yo Jenn-Air Refrigerator Model JCD2289ATB came with the new to us house..."


Buy a new one with all the features you want. IMO, if a fridge has lasted 20 years, it's time to replace, rather than spend money on it.

We recently had to replace our 20+ yo. Bought a Whirlpool French Door model, at Lowes . We love it.

Because of the 2020 plague, we were not able to get the GE we tried to buy. To get by, we bought an LG brand low priced top freezer model. Put it out on our back porch. It has worked great.

From our fridge shopping, the single door top freezer models are under $1000. The French door models with outside ice/water are between $2000 & $3000. Fancy models & brands are Over $3000, up to $10k & even more.

When lookin up fridge reviews, they all seem to have some who think they're great & some who say they are total junk, for a vast variety of reasons. Don't know which reviews to believe.

Also read that LG had some major problems & are still involved in some lawsuits.

Guessing that because of the plague, lots of brands/models are still hard to find. We had to talk Lowes into selling us a floor model.

That pretty much exhausts my current knowledge of refrigerators.


Last edited by ponyakr; 03-14-2021 at 12:04 AM.
  #3  
Old 03-14-2021, 07:55 AM
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Half-Inch Stud Half-Inch Stud is offline
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Observation: Side-by-Side fridges have a tougher time with staying defrosted.

The Fridge problem you have is perplexing. Cold freezer and warm fridge, with a compressor runningfull duty. Doubful to have a valve directing firdge vs freezer temps, so I wonder if there is a blend door to cool/regulate the fridge? Also the fridge-side failure mode is as if a fridge therocouple got its wires pinched-shorted.

We ditched our samsung side-by-side (came with house), and got a new Whirlpool Top freeze/bottom fridge type 21MTFA, and it is wonderful:quiet and holds way more.

  #4  
Old 03-14-2021, 09:03 AM
py71lemans py71lemans is offline
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My guess would be the damper that controls the air flow from the freezer to the frig closed when you shut it off and cant open again. If you hear a fan running in the freezer and can feel air movement in the freezer, find where the air should be coming in the frig. you should feel cold air come in(make Shure freezer door is shut. If you feel cold air come in then the air return opening may be frozen shut. You need the circular air flow. I would bet it is the damper.

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Old 03-14-2021, 10:43 AM
John V. John V. is offline
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Replacing it is always an option but because the existing fridge is built into the cabinetry and includes cabinet panels on the fridge doors, replacing it becomes more than a simple swap out. Biggest issue would be the width and height which would probably limit our choices and not allow us to get the one we'd actually want. But that is something I wouldn't need advice on, we can figure all that out easy enough.

And the unit is in like new looking condition owing to the fact it has gotten so little use. Former owner spent just a few weeks a year living here.

ponyakr, I had been following your fridge saga and appreciate your input. Former house we had a fairly high end counter depth Kenmore Elite french door model which we bought as part of a major kitchen remodel. At the time, it was one of only a few that offered ice/water dispenser in the door. Downside, the icemaker took up a lot of fridge space. And I'm particular about my ice, I didn't like the cube style it produced vs. the one I had previously and often couldn't keep up with the amount of ice I use. We liked it but counter depth (the Jenn-Air is also counter depth) only works for us because we were empty nesters. We knew that had our 4 boys still been home, that counter depth would not have cut it. It was an advertised approx. 25 cu.ft. which was similar to the full depth one it replaced but the configuration just didn't seem to give us a lot of fridge space. I never understood why, but my wife really liked the bottom drawer freezer section.

py71lemans, the damper makes sense. I see it in the "Controls" diagram but it isn't clear what gets it to open.

At first, I thought the damper you refer to might be the little slider device on the fridge wall on the freezer side. It is a simple device that goes from "COOL" that closes the small door to "COLD" where it is wide open. Some cold air is flowing thru that and I've always kept it about 1/2 or 3/4 open just for yucks.

But I don't think that is the damper. It isn't shown in the controls but in the "Shelves and Accessories" diagram. Not clear what drives the air thru this device. It is simply called the Cool/Cold Slide Control and Housing. Also has a retainer. I'm guessing the Operator's Manual which I don't have provides insight as to how to make use of it.

But the Damper looks to be a more significant component.

So Step 1, I removed the Shield to expose all the controls.

I'll study the damper and see if I can figure out what makes it tick and report back.

  #6  
Old 03-14-2021, 02:23 PM
John V. John V. is offline
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Making progress (in understanding the operation)!

Process of elimination based on the fact that the freezer section is working well:

The temp slider controls inside the fridge are the damper control rod for the fridge section and the temperature control rod for the freezer section. Just mechanical rods.

Setting the temp control rod to OFF shuts everything down. Setting it above OFF tells the compressor to turn on (to a setpoint temperature) which also turns on the condenser fan. It also turns on the evaporator fan as all 3 are on the same circuit electrically and powered on together.

Tells me compressor, condenser fan motor, evaporator fan motor, and related wiring and a few circuit components are all functioning properly.

But after figuring the damper system, I find that I am getting no air (cold or otherwise) coming thru the damper door as py71lemans figured.

Based on how it seems the damper is supposed to be controlled, that really only leaves:

1. Adaptive Defrost Control Board which I have placed on order, or...
2. Defrost Heater and Thermostat Assembly, or...
3. Possibly the Temperature Control itself which looks to be the component that actuates the Damper Door.

The Defrost Heater is powered thru the ADCB.

The Temp Control also interfaces with the ADCB but being no electrician, I'm unclear about the role of each in the operation of the damper door.

But it looks like replacing the ADCB might fix my problem and if not, one of the other 2 will. I believe the Heater just needs continuity, just resistance heater I think. The wiring diagram shows the continuity of the Defrost Thermostat to be 240k ohms. I think it is checked cold but I'll worry about that if the ADCB doesn't solve it.

Or maybe it is the Temp Control that gets checked for continuity when cold. Again, I'll check if need be.

Crossing my fingers that the ADCB is the answer. Paid about $15 for it. The Heater can be had for under $40 delivered. Temp Control pricing ranges widely but I saw one for about $50.

So all told, I should have it running for little more than $100 tops. I'll be bummed if I can't get it running again mainly cause I'd rather not have to research a new one to fit in my available space and I really don't want to rework the cabinets if I have to get a fridge too large for my space.

Thanks for the responses. I'll report back after I receive the ADCB and install it.

If anybody knows anything about continuity checks for the Heater/Thermostat or the Temp Control, I'd still like to hear about that.

  #7  
Old 03-14-2021, 02:56 PM
JimFB400HO JimFB400HO is offline
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I usually refer to Repair Clinic to diagnose our appliance issues. They have a lot of videos and descriptions of likely issues and how to repair them (hoping you will use them to purchase the parts needed). I entered your model number in and there are several videos. Note the one "Refrigerator freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm" in the "View All" after the first 6 videos.

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairH...roubleshooting

  #8  
Old 03-17-2021, 05:28 PM
John V. John V. is offline
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Looks like I was making mountains out of molehills.

I was waiting on the ADCB that I ordered and meanwhile checking to see if I could determine what else might be wrong. I kept my thermometers in the freezer and fridge. Tuesday morning I woke up to see the freezer was at minus 13 F falling. Way too cold and the compressor running.

The Temp Control was set at approx. where I had always set it. So I moved the Temp Control down scale until the compressor kicked off.

The compressor didn't stay off for long. I had never tried to check the temp in the freezer or fridge before but it was obvious I had the Temp Control set for way too cold. My target temp was minus 5.

Thru the day, I continued to watch the thermometer and 4 or 5 times I reset the Temp Control down scale. Each time the compressor would kick on and drive the temp to minus 7 before I would reset it again. Finally at the end of the day I had it where the compressor would kick off at about minus 6.

The freezer temp would then rise until it was about minus 0.5 +/- a few tenths when the compressor when kick on and then off at about minus 6. I was happy to see that the compressor was cycling and no longer running continuously. That problem now resolved.

Meanwhile, I still had no air movement thru the damper in the fridge.

I did have some air coming thru the small COOL/COLD port in the sidewall. Keeping the fridge door shut, the fridge temp had dropped to about 42 F. Still too warm and if the door was opened at any point, took way too long to cool back down even to 42.

But I went to bed Tuesday night thinking I had at least learned why my compressor had been running non-stop.

Woke up Wednesday morning to find the compressor continuing to cycle on and off in the minus 6 to 0 range.

But the surprising thing was to see the fridge temp had dropped to 39 overnight. I opened the fridge door and discovered with the compressor running I was now getting air flow from the damper!

I I wanted to see 37 in the fridge so I moved the damper control up scale. I didn't get an immediate change so I moved it further up scale before going to bed. I overshot because I woke up to find the fridge at 34. I moved it down scale a bit but will make smaller adjustments and wait for a day to see the temp now that it is working as it should. The fridge is still running a bit on the cold side but I know I will get it just right soon.

I have concluded that I have been running the freezer too cold ever since we moved in. And after messing with it at the start of this escapade, I probably drove the freezer temp even lower. And when I shut the freezer off, somehow the damper door stuck shut. Then when I finally ratcheted the freezer temp upward, the damper door came unstuck and the fridge started cooling again.

Pix attached show where I have set the Temp (freezer) Control and Damper Control. Originally the Temp Control was set just below the mid point and the Damper Control also a bit below mid point. The 2nd pic shows the small COOL/COLD port. It is set just below the COLD (slide door about 3/4 open).

The new ADCB will go into inventory when it arrives. Only cost me about $15 which is not as good as free, but not near as expensive as it could have been if I had to call for service or worse, bought a new fridge. Thanks for the comments, it was all helpful. py71lemans, you put me on the right track. Although, I'm still unsure what controls the damper door, I learned a lot about how my refrigerator functions so And it always is helpful to me to talk thru stuff like this.
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2021, 09:47 PM
John V. John V. is offline
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Turns out my refrigerator did need repair.

The "it repaired itself" scenario was short-lived. After briefly dropping the fridge temp below 40, it stopped blowing air thru the damper again and could barely keep the fridge temp down to 43 with the door closed all night. Messed with it Thurs evening and fridge got up to 54, fridge door open a lot. Went to bed, Fri morn it had only come down to about 48.

Decided to install the new ADCB Fri morning. Didn't expect it to fix the problem but it has.

Finished the install, fridge was at 61. Took several hrs, compressor running continuously, but finally the fridge was back below 40. Air flowing again thru the damper. Also discovered the air return flapper behind a crisper drawer, with air flowing, the flapper (a plastic film over an opening) is sucked inward allowing for proper air return.

Today I have been monitoring the compressor on/off temps and the fridge temp and making adjustments.

Fridge was actually getting too cold so I have adjusted the Damper Control in increments thru the day to just below the Mid point setting (top of the 4 bar scale) and the fridge is currently running at about 35. Probably need to close the damper a tad more tomorrow.

Temp Control is adjusted to the space between the 2 bar and 3 bar on the scale. It has been shutting off at about minus 10 in the freezer and back on around minus 4. I'll let it run thru the night and probably adjust the Temp Control a bit, freezer doesn't need to be quite that cold.

But looks like it was the ADCB that had failed and all is good now. Very pleased.

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Old 03-21-2021, 01:28 PM
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Glad to see it fixed. I don't know about you but I get a nice sense of accomplishment when I can repair something for the fraction of the cost of replacement.

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