[ponyakr]

Here's the 40v Greenworks I bought. Right now, it's $157 + tax, at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-Co...599493&sr=8-16

It's $195 + tax, with a 4Ah batt. I bought the one with the 2Ah batt, then bought one of the generic 6Ah batts, for about $50 on Ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IPA151K...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

The 6Ah generic was $49.99 when I bought it, from this seller. There are several Ebay sellers for these. I've noticed that their prices change. The cheapest price may be from a different seller, every time you check. Right now, this seller does not have the cheapest price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363341154906

Have mentioned some of this earlier.

It's not the lightest 40v rear motor. I think both the Kobalt & the Ryobi are lighter.

It's not the cheapest. Usually, you can buy an Ebay Ryobi a little cheaper.

But, it may be the quietest. The motor makes hardly any noise at all. The Kobalt is similar & may have the same motor.

It's string head has the 10mm shaft, as does the Kobalt.

The only real downside I've found is that the little 2Ah batt won't last more than about 15-20 min when string trimming. The 6Ah generic will last twice that long. Can't speak for the Greenworks 4Ah, since I haven't had one.

I've done quite a bit of string trimming in the past few weeks. Since I put brush blades on all the 10mm shaft heads, I've been using Ryobi string attachments, with their Reel Easy head. The brushless rear motor 40v Ryobi, Kobalt, & Greenworks powerheads all work just fine, for string work.

The last few days, I've been using a Ryobi powerhead, with the J-handle from the Trimmer Plus brushcutter attachment. I have two 4Ah Ryobi batts. They seem to last about 45 minutes each, for medium duty string work. Hey, at this point, an hour & a half of constant string trimming is about all I want, in one session.

For me, I find it less tiring to adjust the shoulder strap so that the trimmer hangs low enuff so that my right arm is almost straight, but still bent slightly, at the elbow. I adjust the strap attachment mount to where the string head is just above the ground, with the battery I'll be using, installed. If I need to raise the head slightly, I can just straighten out my right arm a little.

The arms/hands don't have to lift, at all, for normal trimming. The left arm/hand mostly just swings the trimmer left & right, using the J-handle. I have it adjusted all the way out to the left, as far as it will go. This allows more swing to the right side, without having to reach across as far as if I were using a regular handle, which is centered over the trimmer shaft.

Hey, I realize that people are different. So, my method might not be best for everybody. But, after many hours of trimming, & trying different methods, this is what I've found that works best, for me. Allows me to work longer, with less back/arm pain & fatigue. I actually used up both 4Ah Ryobi batts, the 2Ah Greenworks batt, & the 6Ah generic batt, in one session. But, I had to take several breaks, to rest the back, during that session.

Tore into some heavier stuff yesterday, out in the field by our house. The string didn't want to cut the heavy clumps of grass/weeds. Not real sure what that stuff is. But it grows in "clumps" and seems to have a sort of "stump" left, after you cut off the grass/weeds above it. Tried the Ryobi plastic blades. They did better than the string, but still had trouble with that stuff.

So, I tried the 4-paddle blade that came on the Trimmer Plus brushcutter. It cut great. Would probably work better if I sharpened it. But, it was mounted on a Kobalt attachment. In order to get the blade close enuff to the ground, the big Kobalt string guard was dragging the ground. Had to raise the rear of the trimmer & readjust the strap to hold it there, so the blade would be at a downward angle, with the guard off the ground.

All this happened just before dark, last night. Today, I'll try removing the guard. If that results in me being hit with too much stuff, I'll try one of the attachments which has a smaller guard. IIRC, both the Ryobi & Trimmer Plus brushcutter attachments came with much smaller guards. Now I know why.

Of course, I still have lots of different brush blades I can try. I suppose I could also trim some off the bottom of one of the big string guards. After I do some experimenting, I'll report back with the results.

PS: The tuff stuff I'm workin on is out in the field. I usually only cut it once or twice a year, with the Kioti & bush hog. Thought maybe that, since I have plenty of trimmers now, I might cut a section of the field which is closer to the house, & make it part of our "lawn" rather than part of the "field". After I get the "clumps" & ant hills shorter, I'll cut it with the Craftsman rider.

[ponyakr]

OK, I removed the string guard, & tried to whack some more of the "clumps".

1st pic shows the Trimmer Plus J-handle, mounted on a brushless rear motor Ryobi trimmer.

2nd pic shows the location of the shoulder strap mounting bracket, which balances the trimmer with the blade just above the ground.

3rd pic shows the position of the blade, with strap over my shoulder, & trimmer hanging off of it. No hands on trimmer.

4th pic shows the blade beside one of the "clumps".

5th pic shows the "stump", after whackin it with the 4-paddle blade.

The blade works great, without a guard. Didn't notice any excess "stuff" being thrown at me. Even without sharpening, this blade can cut the "clump" below ground level, if desired.

But, the blade cuts a very small area, per pass. So, it is MUCH slower than cutting with string, for stuff string will cut. Might look at buying a larger diameter blade, with longer cutting edges.

[ponyakr]

1st pic shows the part of the field I whacked. Will probably whack some more, then eventually mow it with the Craftsman rider & include it as part of our lawn/yard. If for some reason that don't work out good, I'll just leave it longer & hit it with the bush hog, occasionally.

The other pics are of one of the MANY ant hills, which are scattered all over our property. The larger hills appear to house many thousands of ants. Some are a foot or more tall & about 2 feet in diameter. So, I suppose we have trillions of ants on our 20 acres.

I stirred 'em up a bit, then whacked some off the top of the hill. A close up shows LOTS of mad ants.

I've made the mistake of standing a bit too close to a hill of mad ants, and not noticing that some were climbing up my shoes. Have also got some in my gloves, when picking up pieces of rotten wood. Them little boogers can produce a nasty little sting, for their small size.

[ponyakr]

Well, today I decided to try a different blade on the "clump" grass.

I think I mentioned a 10" blade I bought, which dulled REALLY quick, & is pretty well useless for anything much over 1/2". I mean this sucker is dull.

But, it IS 10" in diameter, & it IS light. My thoughts were that the teeth are probably sharper than the blunt edges of the 4-paddle Trimmer Plus blade. So, I decided to give it a try.

Swapped it onto the guard-less Kobalt attachment. I've read some reviews which say that most of the blades which are made mostly for cutting larger limbs & trees are sometimes bad about getting wrapped up with tall weeds, and are therefore not very good for weeds, especially tall ones.

So, with all this in mind, I really was not expecting this blade to be much good at all, in our field with the clump grass & the 2 & 3 feet tall weeds.

BUT, to my surprise, it worked GREAT ! Whacks the weeds with hardly any effort at all, even at just above an "idle". It will also chew up the clump grass, at low speed if you go slow. OR, you can rev it on up to nearly full throttle, on the low speed of the brushless rear motor Ryobi, and whack the clump grass about as fast as you can swing the blade back & forth.

I cut for over 30 minutes, (til I got rained out) & didn't once have to stop to unwind any long weed wrap-ups. Whackin these same weeds, I had to clear lots of wrap-ups, with both the string head & the 4-paddle TP blade. And, this blade doesn't throw hardly anything back at me, even with no guard.

So, it turns out that the blade I'd thought was worthless, is actually quite efficient, when used on the stuff in our field. As a result of this discovery, I MAY begin to use this type blade on most everything that's out in the open, & use the nylon string to cut where a metal blade might damage something.

I assume that some, if not most, of the other brush blades I have will probably also work. Once again, I've learned that you can't always believe the reviews you read online. My experience is that sometimes the results I get are exactly opposite what a review says.

[ponyakr]

Decided to give this 10" 3-tooth blade a try.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MW0MSE...roduct_details

The large teeth are sharpened on both sides, but could easily be sharpened much more, if desired.

It cuts heavy grass & weeds just fine. BUT, it occasionally dips right into the ground, stopping rotation. I tried steady concentration, trying to prevent this. But, it seems as tho there is an occasional magnet in the ground, which "pulls" the blade down. And it does so, whether I'm swingin it to the left or right. I know this probably sounds ridiculous.

Anyhow, I took it off & put the dull 10" 40-tooth blade back on. Hey, it works great. And, you can SEE the blade while it's rotating. The 3-tooth blade almost "disappears" when it's rotating.

So, for me, the 10" 3T blade does NOT work. But the 10" 40T blade DOES work.

I ran across these 10" 40T blades I'm gonna try. They have some raised "fins" which are apparently supposed to cut any long weeds that might try to wrap around the cutting head. It SOUNDS reasonable. I forgot to mention that I cut some really tall weeds(maybe 4 feet or so). Had several "wrap-ups". Had to stop & clear it by hand.

These blades are advertised as Curt-Saw brand. Will report how they do.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

That Green 10" 40T blade is one of the original blades i bought.
Tangs could rub the head depending on size of the head, but no problem on the EGo head. May need to be spaced out lower on driveshaft if clearance is too tight at head.

Also a clock-wise trimmer will need it installed upside down, the tangs would increase ground clearance and catch the turf if cutting low.

The Detangle/Flaps ,,, i found are not needed on these weed blades.
At least the way i use them, have not had any wrap-ups.
But when i cut tall stuff i do it in stages instead of swinging for the bottom on first cut. The debris is easier to deal with that way.

The Blue 10" 15T Kurt blade is way better for weeds/brush and such.
Because it can be installed up or down = double sided use. 2x longevity
And it can be sharpened - if required or desired.

I love the Blue 10"
The Green one cuts wood good and works fine for weeds/brush too.
But the Blue Blade is the better value in that category (weeds/brush)
I think a 2-pack was only about $10

10" is perfect for weed/brush stuff
For wood cuts , i think 10" is too much
Going to get some 8" & 9" blades for wood cuts next time - will have to dig back into this thread and read your reviews again.
The Blue and Green 10" Kurt blades are the only blades i have bought so far.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Really Really Like the way a 10" Blade does with weeds versus the string head.
I don't get covered in greenery from the waist down like i do with string heads.
And will save a good chunk of change not buying as much string.

Still use string for some things, only if i really need to for light work.

[ponyakr]

"...I don't get covered in greenery from the waist down like i do with string heads..."

Yeah, I removed the string guard. Can run the blade real close to the ground, and VERY little stuff is thrown back. And it cuts most stuff just fine, at a real low rpm. That makes the battery last a lot longer. I'm gettin over an hour now, with the 4Ah Ryobi batts. I'm usually ready for a break by then, anyhow. Will use a blade from now on, except for the stuff that demands only string.

PS: Some of the Kurt-Saw brand blades I've bought are no longer available, that I can find. The dull 10" I've been using the most appears to be generic, which is sold under several brand names. They dull extremely quick, then are no good for any wood over about 3/4". But they'll whack anything smaller, if you have up enuff rpm. I suppose the tips are either not carbide, or they are a real low quality carbide. Wouldn't buy any more for brush/limbs/trees. But, they're cheap enuff to buy for weeds/grass & small stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/AR-PRO-2-Set-...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/SORANGEUN-10i...garden&sr=1-52

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

The Blue 10" 15T Kurt Blades are still available. $10.89 pair
Guarantee you would like them.
I should probably order another pair of them before they become unavailable too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ponyakr]

Yeah, I saw that one. It's a crazy lookin thang ! LOL

Description says it's for the ROOTS of grass. But, I suppose that if it'll cut the roots, then it should cut the above ground stuff, too.

I reckin I'd better order a pair & give 'em a try. Can't think of any reason not to.

Done ! They're cheap. And I get another 5% off that, for using my Amazon store card.

Now it shows that there are only 12 pair of these left. Since the other Kurt-Saw blades disappeared, I assume that after these are gone, there won't be any more. Mine are supposed to be here May 20. So, I'll try one ASAP, & if I really like 'em, I'll order more, right away.

[ponyakr]

OK, I wanna start a conversation now about lawn mowers. Our 42" Crafstman rider is probably nearly 10 year old. It still runs & cuts OK. But, 3 of the tires leak the air out after only a few hours. One got so bad last year I had to buy a new one.

Because of this, after mowing, I put blocks under both ends, then have to air 3 tires & move the blocks each time we mow.

Also, the battery runs down between mowings. So, I have to hook the batt charger/booster to it to get it started. For quite a few years now, I have always had to give it a squirt of starting fluid in the air cleaner, before starting when cold.

Well, I'm retired & have plenty of time. But, TJ wants to be able to just jump on it exactly when she gets ready to mow her horse lot, & not have to wait for me to go out & do all the things required to get it ready to mow.

So, that means either spend some money on this old mower, OR buy a new one. Well, that means I need to decide WHAT to buy. We really love the hand operated trans. It's just a stick that is operated with the right. The farther forward you push it, the faster your forward ground speed. The farther to the rear you push it, the faster your backward ground speed. Pretty simple & EZ to use. BUT, as far as I can find, there are no longer any models made with this hand stick.

They all have foot controls. I was recently at Lowes. They had a couple of Husky models & the S100 JD. I sat on a Husky & checked out the foot pedals. DON"T like them, AT ALL. Forward is OK. But I don't like the reverse pedal location or operation.

Then I sat on the S100 JD. It has 2 pedals SIDE-by-SIDE. I can live with those.

So, questions for you guys:

(1) Do you know of any brand that still makes a lawn tractor with a hand stick, rather than foot pedals ? (NOTE: I am NOT interested in a zero turn mower, so please don't even bring 'em up.)

(2) Does anybody have a JD with the side-by-side pedals ? For those who do, how do you like the way those pedals operate, as compared to the kind on most other lawn tractors ?

[ponyakr]

2 options we'd like on a lawn tractor are electric blade engage(PTO?) & cruise.

The elec PTO is said to be easier on belts, making them last longer. And, since we have quite a large area to mow, cruise would prevent having to hold the forward pedal to maintain speed.

In looking at the specs for the JD models, IIRC, it looks as tho the S140 is the cheapest model they have with elec PTO. But, is has a 48" deck. I really wanted to stay with a 42" deck, so it will have only 2 blades.

https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn...-lawn-tractor/

As of this post, I'm thinking that the S240 model is the cheapest that has a 42" deck, elec PTO, & cruise. It's several hundred more than the S140, but has several upgraded features. Right now, it's my choice.

https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn...tractor-42-in/

Problem is finding one. No dealer in my area has one. Don't know if it's because of the plague, or increased demand, or what.

Just for my information, would some of you guys check in your area & see if the S240 is available, & if not, when they expect to get one ? I'd appreciate it.

If I could find one, even 100 miles away, it would be no problem to drive & pick it up in the back of our Tacoma. But, if there are none available nationwide, it might be a waste of time to search for one at all the dealers within a 100 mile radius.

At this time, we don't plan to spend more than $3000 for a mower.

Also, 1 other thing I noticed about the current JD line. They have come up with this thing that is standard equipment on several models. When you wanna change oil, you just twist off the east-to-reach filter & replace it. It contains the oil.

This presents 2 problems. The filter is VERY expensive. And, there is old oil in the engine that is NOT replaced. But, since the warranty is only 2 or 3 years, depending on the model, maybe JD figures it'll be a money maker, for at least 2 reasons.

https://www.deere.com/en/our-company...nd-oil-change/

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

I think what you are looking for is a Hydrostatic , with the "gear lever" that controls direction and land speed.
Didn't know they had gone extinct.
I have a (Dark Green) 1997 or 98 model Craftsman 25hp 50" deck that is hydrostatic and wouldn't want any other type than hydrostatic after using it for so long.

Fix the Old One !
New chinese Carb , new battery , new inner-tubes ... maybe under $200 ?
Maybe even a new seat

I was in Lowes the other day, they had an EGo Battery Power Riding Mower
....................... $5000 !!

[ponyakr]

"...Fix the Old One !
New chinese Carb , new battery , new inner-tubes ... maybe under $200 ?..."


Yeah, that would be great, IF everything else on it would last several more years. BUT, as old as it is, there may be other things about to conk out. Maybe even the engine. Don't wanna spend any money on it. I'll probably use it when I wanna mow the whole yard myself, & have the new one for TJ, so she can use it herself, anytime she wants to, without waiting for me to get it ready to mow.

Would try to sell the old one & use that money to help pay for the new one. BUT, I've had terrible luck trying to sell used stuff. Probably couldn't get $500 for this one. Maybe $200, tops. Would rather just use it til it quits then give it to somebody who can fix it.

Speakin of selling stuff, I finally sold 2 of my trimmers. Sold the 40v Kobalt front motor, with a 2Ah batt & charger, for $100. And, sold the 80v Greenworks, tool only, for $80. The Greenworks guy already had an 80v GW batt.

Although the prices for my 80v Kobalt & my Echo trimmers are good, most potential buyers just can't seem to understand why I'd be trying to sell a trimmer, WITHOUT a batt & charger.

So, I decided to try another tactic. I offered my brush motor Ryobis, the 40v Greenworks, & one 40v rear motor Kobalt, WITH batt & charger. The prices are lower than new price, & I think very reasonable. But, for these locals, anything over $100 is too much to pay for ANY string trimmer, even if it does come with a batt & charger.

[ponyakr]

"...EGo Battery Power Riding Mower
....................... $5000 !! "

Yeah, that brings up another question I have. I've thought about buying a self-propelled walk-behind mower. It would be much quicker than using one of my trimmers, but I'd still get some good exercise. I could use it for regular mowing, right around the house, then use a rider for the bigger sections.

I've done quite a bit of online research. Most sites place an EGO in the #1 position. But I'm not gonna pay that much for a batt walk-behind.

Was thinkin of Ryobi. But, they get quite a few very bad reviews.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-20...20-Y/311084824

The 40v Kobalt gets slightly better reviews & I already have several batts & chargers. My local Lowes even has 6 in stock. But, some of the owners say they don't have enuff power for any heavy grass or weeds. Only 74% of Lowes reviewers recommend it. With my 10% discount, the total price is just under $400.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-40-V...ded/1000330375

The tool only version is only $70 less. The new batt & charger are worth more than that. So, this tool only deal is not as good.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-40-V...wer/5001089019

Then there is the 80v Kobalt. It gets slightly better reviews. It should have plenty of power for heavy grass. The 80v, as a "tool only", is the same price as the 40v with batt & charger. And, I'd have more use for my 80v Kobalt batt.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-80-V...wer/5000859515

So, any of you guys have a batt powered walk behind self propelled mower you'd like to comment on ? No EGO or other high priced brands, please.

[Murf]

Originally Posted by ponyakr

2 options we'd like on a lawn tractor are electric blade engage(PTO?) & cruise.



The elec PTO is said to be easier on belts, making them last longer. And, since we have quite a large area to mow, cruise would prevent having to hold the forward pedal to maintain speed.



In looking at the specs for the JD models, IIRC, it looks as tho the S140 is the cheapest model they have with elec PTO. But, is has a 48" deck. I really wanted to stay with a 42" deck, so it will have only 2 blades.



https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn...-lawn-tractor/



As of this post, I'm thinking that the S240 model is the cheapest that has a 42" deck, elec PTO, & cruise. It's several hundred more than the S140, but has several upgraded features. Right now, it's my choice.



https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn...tractor-42-in/



Problem is finding one. No dealer in my area has one. Don't know if it's because of the plague, or increased demand, or what.



Just for my information, would some of you guys check in your area & see if the S240 is available, & if not, when they expect to get one ? I'd appreciate it.



If I could find one, even 100 miles away, it would be no problem to drive & pick it up in the back of our Tacoma. But, if there are none available nationwide, it might be a waste of time to search for one at all the dealers within a 100 mile radius.



At this time, we don't plan to spend more than $3000 for a mower.



Also, 1 other thing I noticed about the current JD line. They have come up with this thing that is standard equipment on several models. When you wanna change oil, you just twist off the east-to-reach filter & replace it. It contains the oil.



This presents 2 problems. The filter is VERY expensive. And, there is old oil in the engine that is NOT replaced. But, since the warranty is only 2 or 3 years, depending on the model, maybe JD figures it'll be a money maker, for at least 2 reasons.



https://www.deere.com/en/our-company...nd-oil-change/

Around here the bigger S series tractors are priced very close to the X 330 tractors, which is a step up. It comes with a 42 inch blade & you should be able to buy one right around 3K.

Have you been looking at JD dealership or big box stores?

The last time I checked, which was this spring, the S260 was the same price as the X330. Sale on the X330. I didn’t look at an S240.

Ain’t mower shopping fun! I just see all the other stuff I could buy with that money.

P.S. I have a 1995 LT155 that I bought new. It has the manual blade lever. I think I’ve replaced the blade belt twice. Much less than my friend has replaced the electric clutch on his JD.

Murf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[ponyakr]

Thanks for the info !

"...the X 330 tractors..."

Just looked up that X330. Looks like the price is $3199. With tax, that's around $3500. Not gonna pay that much, at this time. And, I don't see enuff upgrades to make it any better for our needs. Main difference looks to be an extra year warranty.

https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn...-lawn-tractor/

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing...ere/model/x330

https://www.machinerypete.com/other/...ohn-deere/x330

"...Have you been looking at JD dealership or big box stores?..."

Would rather buy from a dealer, in case I have problems with it & need warranty work. Checked out the basic S100 at Lowes. Asked about an S140, at a dealer, by Email. They didn't have one. Said they did have an S240 demonstrator I could check out.

They don't know when they'll get anything else in. Apparently, there is a real log jam of orders, for some reason. Maybe they got behind because of the plague. Or, maybe this happens most every Spring & they don't get caught up 'til mid Summer or later.

About the same problem we had last year trying to buy a fridge. Took several months. We bought a cheap top freezer model, which the salesman didn't even know they had, from Lowes. It was just to get us by 'til we could buy the bigger one TJ wanted.

They finally got 3 units of a model she liked. So, we bought one. When the driver went in the warehouse to pick it up for delivery, he said it was totaled. Damaged much too bad to sell.

Come to find out they had sold one & put the other good one out as a floor model. We were NOT happy. They said their policy was to NOT sell floor models. But, we pretty much insisted. They sold it to us & delivered it. It's been working great. We love it.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Was back at Lowes today and looked over at all the mowers out front.
ALL of them were Zero-Turn machines with the handlebar on each side.
3 or 4 different brands/colors - ALL zero-turn models

How do you sip a beer or have a cigarette while mowing if both hands have to hold a control bar ? pffftt
And none of them had Headlights either
i can't mow at night without Headlights
Who buys these damn thangs ?

My Dad and a Brother-in-Law both just bought new mowers.
They got Hustler brand ... at John Deere dealers ?
Said the Hustler got higher ratings than JD ? what ?
Maybe Hustlers are all they can get into inventory
i think they bought zero-turns too , iirc

[ponyakr]

I sat on a zero turn & checked out all the controls, several years back. Didn't like the feel of it, at all.

I think it may be some sort of a masculine deal. Lots of guys want the baddest, fastest machines they can get. The zero turns probably make 'em FEEL better, as well as cutting more area, quicker.

This reminds me of when Tim the Tool Man Taylor hopped up a mower to race Bob Villa. It went out of control.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBNPAJLhKZ4

Here's another one he built.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5q9J5U5RjU

[ponyakr]

Got several of the blades I'd ordered, today. Was raining, so I didn't try 'em.

Also made a sale. Sold the 80v Kobalt chainsaw & string trimmer, with the batt & charger. Got most of what I paid for 'em back, plus got the use of the saw, to cut several big trees off TJ's horse trails.

Still have the Echo saw & 2 trimmers. Gonna keep the saw, batt, & charger. Because of the price of Echo batt & charger, the trimmers will be hard to sell.

Posted ads for several more trimmers, with batt/charger. Not one single inquiry for anything over $100. So, it looks like I'll just remain blessed with lots of trimmers. Hey, I can live with that.