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#21
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One other option might be one of Holley's in-tank pump /regulator combos. Here's the listing for your Firebird: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-304
The neat thing is that you retain your stock tank. The pump and regulator are mounted on the pickup, so there is no return plumbing to worry about. The regulator is pre-set to 58psi. So all you need is the stock steel fuel line forward, but remember to replace any rubber line with EFI rated hose and clamps. On the FiTech throttle body, cap off the return port and the possibly the vacuum port to the built-in regulator. Something to think about anyway. fwiw, I did this "dead head" style setup previously on my '38 Chevy street rod FiTech setup. But as these new Holley products weren't available at that time, I used an in-tank pump with an LS-style Corvette fuel filter/regulator unit instead which shortened the return as much as possible. I wish something like this was available back then.
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Larry |
#22
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That's happened to me a few times. I just play dumb. I don't know why's it's not working sir, I promise I'll get it fixed before next time. lol
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"Those poor souls have made the fatal mistake of surrounding us. Now we can fire in any direction" 1970 Trans Am RAIII 4 speed 1971 Trans Am 5.3 LM7 1977 Trans Am W72 Y82 1987 Grand National |
#23
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Perfect! Thanks! It looks better than my AL lines for sure. Where do they route/stop up front?
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#24
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Another thought is to run Camaro lines - they route on the pass. side IIRC and may be much easier to go to a FI unit.
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#25
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On a 70 model like mine they make a turn behind the engine cross member and run under the rear of the oil pan and then over the cross member to the fuel pump. Here's a picture of the front section of the 1/2" lines in the factory location (for 72) That lone bolt next to the cross bar of the upper control arm is where another line clip goes, which will hold the lines closer to the control arm where they should be. I just didn't have it installed yet for this picture. |
#26
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thats one thing i dint like about the earlier 70-73 cars is the passenger side fuel line & the line going across the front of the oil pan... the later years & the OP's 78 are a much better design, routing on the driver side & not crossing over the cross member or oil pan.
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#27
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I don't like my 70 though, it's a little different. It crosses behind the cross member under the engine between the cross member and oil pan sump, then runs up and over the cross member along the oil pan rail to the fuel pump so it's packed with a lot of heat and doesn't get nearly as much air flow as the front version. |
#28
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#29
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This was run drivers side - had I thought about it a bit more I would have run it passenger side, avoiding the clutch linkage and throttle assembly. Only this to avoid is the oil filter and heater hoses. |
#30
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where it runs on top the frame next to the engine its very close to the headers if you have bigger pipes, my line is all of about 2" from the big 2" tube super comps i run, way to close for comfort, i had to use some heat wrap on the line in that area its so close. you can kid of see it in this pic, runs very close, would be much cleaner & away from major heat sources on the driver side. they make the later year driver side run in 1/2" too & would be much easier than trying to convert a later year car to passenger side routing. |
#31
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That doesn't look too bad for clearance. I think even with the RA manifolds on the 72 I did it was still just a couple inches. I'm okay with that. As long as I can get a hand between fuel lines and heat sources I've never had an issue, and being where it is with plenty of air flow tends to mitigate any would be issues.
On my 70 the factory didn't come up and over the frame rail like that. It's all hidden behind the engine cross member and runs under the oil pan sump. What's worse is it makes a turn to come up and over the cross member on the driver side, still running under the engine between the block and the RA exhaust manifold where there is a ton of heat and very little air flow. I've just never like fuel lines running "under" engines like that. I'd much rather have that come up the top of the frame rail by the upper control arm. It seems to be the lesser of 2 evils I think. Honestly though I don't think there is a real good way to do it on these 2nd gens. Coming up the passenger side is fine, but I'd like that better if the car didn't have power steering, and the front mounted steering box. Which I think is why initially on the 70 models like mine when they crossed under the back of the engine, they didn't come up and over the top of the frame there, and ran it under the engine along the block instead. Of course the starter is there too. baaaaa lol Always something |
#32
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that pic is kinda deceiving since the close area is hidden by the A-arm mount part of the frame. the heat wrap does its job & ive never had any type of vapor lock or hot fuel issues, just closer than id prefer.
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#33
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He said Copper-Nickel. Not copper. Big difference. OEMs use it
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#34
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I cannot overstate how much I love working with copper-nickle tubing. Makes plumbing a car so much easier.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#35
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I don't have a problem plumbing regular steel lines. Easy enough to work with
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