[supersport#69]

My 68 is getting the last bit of bodywork done before last coat of primer. He wants to know if I want a coating/liner sprayed inside the fenders?

He mentioned bed liner or something to that level but I told him I wanted to get some advice on this.

Are you guys just painting the inside (and by inside I don’t mean wheel wells or frames showing in engine bay) but actual backside of the fender.

I was thinking a thin undercoating or nothing.

[Verdoro 68]

I'd be inclined to go with the factory style black on the back side of the fenders.

[supersport#69]

What was factory style?

[Greg Reid]

I don't think bedliner would be a bad thing to put there. I just epoxied mine and misted black. It's not easy to see those areas when it's all put back together but mine looks sorta like 'nothing'. Just a charcoal black/grey speckled. Mainly, you just want to protect it from moisture I would think.

[bdk1976]

Kinda depends on whether you care about keeping it 'correct' or not. I'm not a prisoner to that, so I blasted some spray bomb rubberized bedliner in mine 15 years ago and no issues since. It doesn't see a lot of weather, but likely more than most cars on here. If I had to do it again I'd use a 2 part bedliner.

[supersport#69]

Mine isn’t custom and I do like original, but it’s not a big factor for me in an area unseen.

I was curious what others were doing in that area for rust protection.

On another note, I have to buy my paint and clear this week. The painter likes ppg and DuPont and he’s doing bc/cc. I also need the clear but he wasn’t specific on that. Any brands preferred there?

[turbo69bird]

Usually a painter likes to stay with one line for contamination purposes. I’d let you painter decidez. Personally I always liked PPG best myself.


https://youtu.be/puxjINVBORc

This stuff is an amazing product you can do full cars with it and it’s direct to metal isocyanates free.

[vertigto]

Will chipping of the paint bother you from stones and/or road debris kicked up?

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by supersport#69

Mine isn’t custom and I do like original, but it’s not a big factor for me in an area unseen.

I was curious what others were doing in that area for rust protection.

On another note, I have to buy my paint and clear this week. The painter likes ppg and DuPont and he’s doing bc/cc. I also need the clear but he wasn’t specific on that. Any brands preferred there?

The burgundy paint you saw on my '67 is single stage PPG applied in 1993. I'll say it again: if it were my car, it would go single stage Starlight Black enamel. The clear coat will peel if you keep the car long enough.

[supersport#69]

The paint stores I called today did not have a book going back to 68 and starlight black or code A was useless in help.

I feel like I had this conversation before so I’ll have to check my old threads but I feel like starlight was the same as tuxedo for Camaro and Raven for Mustang.

Is starlight solid jet black or is there any metallic in it?

One store I called carried Sikkens brand but no luck on numbers. I called a Sherwin Williams and same thing.

My painter prefers ppg or DuPont so I’ll look for those suppliers tomorrow.

sherwin was $459 gallon for black but not necessarily for Pontiac.

[400 4spd.]

Is the painter leaving it up to you to choose a clear??? That's strange. And you want PPG brand code 9700 for your black, btw. For clears we use PPG DBU 2002 and DCX61 hardener. Expensive, but worth it.

[MUSLCAH]

I’d use single stage paint ..on a solid color ,like you have. You can still cut and buff it too....and still see yah face in it. Just put 4 good coats down.

[supersport#69]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

Is the painter leaving it up to you to choose a clear??? That's strange. And you want PPG brand code 9700 for your black, btw. For clears we use PPG DBU 2002 and DCX61 hardener. Expensive, but worth it.

Thanks for the info. He is somewhat because of cost range.

I don’t really want to spend $800 a gallon like one I checked on. Range was $100-800 so somewhere in between I figure. Will one gallon do 5 coats with a vinyl top?

[supersport#69]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

Is the painter leaving it up to you to choose a clear??? That's strange. And you want PPG brand code 9700 for your black, btw. For clears we use PPG DBU 2002 and DCX61 hardener. Expensive, but worth it.

The painter wants to use solvent based. Does ppg 9700 come in solvent based?

If not, does DuPont? If so, do you know that code for Starlight?

[supersport#69]

It looks like I can get Omni plus 9700 solvent base for $460 gallon. Ppg Clear $417 gallon plus $135 hardener. They have a cheaper clear (Omni) for $140 gallon.



They have a special on Trans star clear with harder for $311 gallon

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by supersport#69

The painter wants to use solvent based. Does ppg 9700 come in solvent based?

Yes, Deltron Base Coat (DBC). And buy the best high solids clear that you can afford. You want good UV protection to prevent fading, chalking and adhesion problems later. And with a good heavy clear you don't need 5 coats!

[supersport#69]

Is the DBC still 9700?

Thanks for the info.

[400 4spd.]

yes

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by supersport#69

Thanks for the info. He is somewhat because of cost range.

I don’t really want to spend $800 a gallon like one I checked on. Range was $100-800 so somewhere in between I figure. Will one gallon do 5 coats with a vinyl top?

Tony, the original Starlight would be the same as Tuxedo or Raven. It was all non-metallic single stage. Very easy to cut and buff, VERY easy to touch up and match, and very, very durable. Metalflake newer blacks can't even come close to the richness of true solid blacks like the originals.

[gtohunter]

Originally Posted by supersport#69

My 68 is getting the last bit of bodywork done before last coat of primer. He wants to know if I want a coating/liner sprayed inside the fenders?

He mentioned bed liner or something to that level but I told him I wanted to get some advice on this.

Are you guys just painting the inside (and by inside I don’t mean wheel wells or frames showing in engine bay) but actual backside of the fender.

I was thinking a thin undercoating or nothing.

I used bedliner material and cut it 50% with acetone. That got rid of the "chunks", and it laid down nice and flat but still tough to scratch. I did wheel wells, floor pans, trunk pans (under spatter paint). Been on there since 2008 and no issues.