[track73]

Here In Northwest Indiana My 79 T/A must pass a single idle emissions test to purchase my license plate. I like my Veterans plate because I think it has helped escape a few minor tickets. It passed back in October of 2019. I haven't driven it more that about 350 miles since. Back then the HC was 117 PPM and the CO was 2.5%. The standards are 350 PPM and the CO % is 3.5. Now it's HC 191 and the CO is 5.54%. It still has gasoline that was purchased last November with Lucas gas stabilizer. I know high CO is a rich mixture I haven't done anything to the engine since 2019 when I put a Cliffs kit with all the idle down tubes jets metering rods, choke pull off, etc. And car car passed then. Any suggestion would be appreciated

[Tom Vaught]

Talk to some people that live in Pennsylvania, they have had the idle emissions tests continuously for over 40 years. They can tell you some things that might help you pass the testing. I did the job for 7 years but still will not help people beat the testing.
Tom V.

[steve25]

Ok, so the question is have you used the Lucas before and had it ever been in the tank during a previous emission test?

[Schurkey]

Start with FRESH GASOLINE and a fully-warm engine. Given a choice, I'd use 10% Ethanol-fortified gas.

High HC tends to be misfire. High CO tends to be rich mixture.

Dick with the idle mixture screws as needed to make it run right with minimal CO. Typically lean-dropped by about 1/4" of manifold vacuum on each screw (or close to that.)

[mgarblik]

I have pretty extensive experience in this area. First you need to get the old gas out of the tank and get nice fresh fuel in the system. The old gas, especially with the stabilizers, suppress the light ends in the fuel from evaporating. This will greatly increase CO emissions. Using gasoline WITH up to 10% alcohol will actually help with the CO emissions because it has some free oxygen in the mix. Next, turn the idle mixture screws inward until the engine begins to idle lousy, then back out only 1/8 turn. You want it as lean as it will run, but without missing. This is very important. Any misfire at all will send CO sky high. Hope this helps. I was an EPA trainer for the Ohio E-Check program that ran for 10 years. I never had any decent running car unable to pass an emissions test, from IM-240, ASTM 25-25 to diesel opacity. If the car runs decent, it will pass. Good luck with it. Once your test is passed, return your idle mixture screws to the best idling condition, which will be richer.

[track73]

Thanks Guys. I've driven this since 1985 and most as my daily driver. It always passed even with the engine swaps. I wondered about the Lucas, that's why I mentioned it.

[Formulas]

It's been a while but if I remember right initial timing is a player might be the only time to go full retard lol

And is easy to reverse after

[MarkS57]

Originally Posted by Formulas

It's been a while but if I remember right initial timing is a player might be the only time to go full retard lol

And is easy to reverse after

Yup, in an idle test, this helped. Good thing about driving a 65 with std plates in NJ, no inspection and as long as you are not puking out visible smoke or small animals and kids are not passing out behind your car, you're good.

[ponjohn]

1/4 tank of premium fuel and 1 quart of denatured alcohol.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Is the air filter clean?
Is the choke opening all the way?

Carbs that sit and dry out repeatedly get a layer crud build up inside.
If that makes the float get heavy it will raise fuel level in the bowl and cause a rich idle.
Could also make for a leaky needle and seat. Enough to raise fuel level without flooding over.
Dirty air bleeds cause rich running.

Fresh gas and a little TLC should get you back on top of the game.

Clay