Suspension TECH Including Brakes, Wheels and tires

          
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  #21  
Old 07-20-2010, 05:22 PM
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I preloaded the rear suspension with a floor jack before I torqued everything. I hadn't thought about it for the front yet, but I guess it would be a good idea to get the motor in the car before I torque everything down.

And I did go with the SBC springs. The guy recommended them since I am going with aluminum heads/intake. I will just have to see how they work out.

  #22  
Old 07-20-2010, 06:43 PM
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Just wondering, on the front coils did you use any isolators or spacers? I figured they might use something up front but two people from PY sales told me nothing is used up front, some use a spacer but that is just for ride height purposes, nothing else.

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Old 07-21-2010, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1978 T/A View Post
I preloaded the rear suspension with a floor jack before I torqued everything. I hadn't thought about it for the front yet, but I guess it would be a good idea to get the motor in the car before I torque everything down.

And I did go with the SBC springs. The guy recommended them since I am going with aluminum heads/intake. I will just have to see how they work out.
The only problem I see with this method is that all the weight is not there yet. Your motor/trans/ gas/ interior/whatever is going to effect the final weight (and distribution). I would loosen up the bolts until the car is complete, then tighten things up.

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  #24  
Old 07-21-2010, 08:44 PM
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Cody, when I pulled the original springs there was no insulators or spacers of any kind. The rear had insulators, but not the front.

JC455 The only thing that is out of the car right now is the motor/tranny and tank. I will leave the front loose till I get weight on it for sure. I hadn't really considered weight distribution for the rear. When I get everything together I will look and see how it sits. If I am not happy with it or think it looks off I will loosen/retorque the bolts.

Thanks for the imput JC455, does anyone else have any imput? I am open to comments.

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Old 07-22-2010, 02:16 PM
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I would agree to keep the front and back bolts loose till it's fully assembled and even drive it around the block carefully with the full weight on the car and bolts slightly loose, then torque them down on level ground. You want to make sure they are torqued down when the arms are in the middle of their travel to avoid binding.

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  #26  
Old 07-22-2010, 04:32 PM
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What do you mean by "the arms are in the middle of their travel?" Wouldn't they be in the middle if the car was on the ground with full weight on it?

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Old 07-22-2010, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1978 T/A View Post
What do you mean by "the arms are in the middle of their travel?" Wouldn't they be in the middle if the car was on the ground with full weight on it?
Yes, however I think he is saying to drive it around the block to "settle in" the suspension, and then torque the bolts down after you park.

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Old 07-22-2010, 09:19 PM
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right, I just meant when they are half way in between the full up and down extent that the arms can travel, which is where they are meant to be under full weight of the car at rest.

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Old 07-23-2010, 03:56 PM
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Ah thanks for clearing that up. Do you recommend I do the same thing for the rear?

  #30  
Old 07-23-2010, 05:41 PM
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I would. I would think if you didn't preload the rear suspension before you torque it, the control arm bushings might bind or make it ride stiff. Kinda unrelated but my Jeep did that. I torqued the leaf spring and shackle bolts even before setting the vehicle down and it rode extremely stiff.

  #31  
Old 07-25-2010, 02:26 PM
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I preloaded the suspension with a floor jack like, but depending how it rides when I get everything back together I might loosen all the bolts and retorque them again.

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