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  #1  
Old 08-18-2016, 03:38 AM
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Squidward Squidward is offline
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Default 72 Lemans header install

Grr!

Installing Hooker headers. I thought 1st gen birds sucked bad. Now I have redefined that perception.

Installed driver side last night. Had to remove starter and steering shaft, and tube was still contacting crossmember. And who decided to stick the brake distribution block way down there? I'm still not sure how I will thread all the bolts.

Header came out, and will get a whacking so it doesn't hit the crossmember.

OK, rant done. I guess this is "Welcome to your first A-body", huh?

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  #2  
Old 08-18-2016, 07:27 AM
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I have done 2 sets on my 71 Lemans and will pay to have it done next time. Never again!!!

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Old 08-18-2016, 07:44 AM
Hunter98TA Hunter98TA is offline
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I had the same problem with Hooker. VERY close to the brake distribution block and starter. I now have Doug's headers and a new 4wh disk brake setup that relocates the block to under the Master Cylinder so clearance isn't an issue. I'll be installing the starter this weekend and hopefully I won't have clearance issues.

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  #4  
Old 08-18-2016, 11:14 AM
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West Coast GTO West Coast GTO is offline
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The Hooker hearers on my 71 GTO hit the brake distribution block even after someone beat the hell out of it to fit. Also, one tube hits the A/C box( also beat up) and they both sit so low that I can't drive over even a small speed bump. I'm going with the RAIV type .
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  #5  
Old 08-18-2016, 07:40 PM
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CraigGT37 CraigGT37 is offline
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I used a 1/4in drive 12 in extension and a u-joint from the underneath. Worked alot better than trying wrenches.

  #6  
Old 08-18-2016, 07:55 PM
marxjunk marxjunk is offline
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no hooker headers for me...i use cheapies..and work every time

now..just factory HO manifolds for me...i read a dyno test some where and there was just a 12 percent improvement...not enough for a street car in my opinion..

that and good hookers are 350+ now..and thats a lot for header..and they arent even the highest priced anymore...crazy!!

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  #7  
Old 08-18-2016, 09:17 PM
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I had to grind down a wrench to fit in for the center header bolt and also used a universal joint. There was a week of on again off again work as I walked away when I got too frustrated. My mechanic I use now charges 250 and it is worth every penny to let him do it.

  #8  
Old 08-19-2016, 02:08 AM
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Hedman's on my 67 FB were a breeze by comparison.

This is my first experience with Hookers.

Wait for it...




This stuff writes itself. Seriously.

Yes, it is the #5 port that is SO FAR being the biggest PITA for bolt stuff. Will bring the mighty BFH to bear this weekend, and give it another shot.

It made me look online at RARE's just to keep my options open.

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  #9  
Old 08-19-2016, 06:43 AM
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Eric71T37 Eric71T37 is offline
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This is why I went with Ram Air III manifolds on my current car.

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  #10  
Old 08-24-2016, 05:55 AM
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Finally.

I test fitted these headers prior to engine install, and had already given a whacking to the tubes for starter clearance. Thought I was good.

I had to BFH the #3 tube to NOT rub on the crossmember. And when it was all said and done, I had to pry on the brake distribution block/lines to get clearance so they wouldn't touch the tube. And this is after I had removed the steering intermediate shaft. Starter install and shim with headers no fun either. Grr.

Passenger side went better. I went ahead and removed the tranny cooler lines before even starting, and pulled off the oil filter housing. Header went right up and in. Oil filter housing went on, with plenty of room for filter removal/install (angled filter housing). Tranny cooler lines required quite a bit of massaging to get around the tubes, but all is good now - I hope.

I am convinced that the previous owner never actually hooked these things up to the engine, but most likely installed the headers onto the new exhaust system in hopes of dropping the engine in. The engine was not in the car when I bought it. And this theory makes sense because my headpipes don't reach the collectors now, and the pipes over the axles are contacting the axle tubes. Now I get to retire Mr. BFH, and call up Mr. Sawzall to fix the rest of the exhaust.

Now if only I could get my POS hood to latch...

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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?"
  #11  
Old 08-24-2016, 07:47 PM
1NC Again 1NC Again is offline
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I installed Dougs in, or should I say on, my Lemans with the body off and still had some of the issues above. Brake valve will now be under the master cylinder, am using a hi torque mini starter, and have yet to see how the A/C box will clear. Looks like there's lots of room but we'll see. The trans cooling lines (brand new stainless hard lines) look like a terrible bird nest in there and I'm worried about boiling the fluid even with ceramic coated headers. I expect before all is said and done I'll resort to a cooler under the passenger seat.

  #12  
Old 08-25-2016, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1NC Again View Post
I installed Dougs in, or should I say on, my Lemans with the body off and still had some of the issues above. Brake valve will now be under the master cylinder, am using a hi torque mini starter, and have yet to see how the A/C box will clear. Looks like there's lots of room but we'll see. The trans cooling lines (brand new stainless hard lines) look like a terrible bird nest in there and I'm worried about boiling the fluid even with ceramic coated headers. I expect before all is said and done I'll resort to a cooler under the passenger seat.
I don't have an evap box to worry about. I will add a tranny cooler for sure, and possibly some sort of hose insulation. Brake prop block might move somewhere else eventually if I add a line lock. Ahh... ain't it grand?

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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?"
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