[highrisk]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

Did you ever look into the choke setting, both initial and pull-off? All my stock Pontiacs always started just fine even after sitting for a couple of months. It was only if they sat for a year or more that I either had to do the 'ol crank 'n pump or pour a shot glass of gas down the carb.

The choke is an electric choke and is set by the recommendations. You can tell there is no gas at first and you just have to crank the engine until the mechanical pump is able to get gas into the carb
Dale

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[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by highrisk

The choke is an electric choke and is set by the recommendations. You can tell there is no gas at first and you just have to crank the engine until the mechanical pump is able to get gas into the carb
Dale

Did you physically look? Does the choke fully close when set? Did you pull the air cleaner, pump the linkage a few times and see that there is no fuel squirting prior to attempting to start?

[Tom Vaught]

Another comment: related to above.

For several years, (without the pusher/carb primer pump) I just carried a oil squirt can (painted red on the outside) and kept some gas in that. Take off the center carb air cleaner, gave the carb vent several squirts to make sure the carb jets were covered, two squirts into the throttle blade area, and fired the engine up.

Now the mechanical fuel pump is pumping many times more pump strokes vs the cranking engine and the carb bowl would fill to the proper level in a few seconds of running.

That was ok when I lived on the farm and the car was not driven often. The Pusher Pump helped with WOT runs and removed the "open the hood, take the air cleaner off, etc, etc" when I was in college. I had a hood chain on the car in those days so it would have been more work with the oil can process.

Tom V.

[Chief of the 60's]

LOL! I remember those days of 20 pounds of chain hanging down when someone opened their hood.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

Did you physically look? Does the choke fully close when set? Did you pull the air cleaner, pump the linkage a few times and see that there is no fuel squirting prior to attempting to start?

Yes to all of those.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

LOL! I remember those days of 20 pounds of chain hanging down when someone opened their hood.

But it kept the college kids (with no cash to buy a replacement for a dead battery) from taking MY battery or Tri-Power.

Tom V.

[highrisk]

So I decided to mount it to the back of the trunk wall. I installed the bracket upside down and backwards to tuck the pump up under the trunk and right in front of the gas tank. This also keeps it well away from the rear end. I also bent the bracket a little so the pump would sit straight and level. I could not use the stock three points to mount the bracket to the trunk because the bottom hole was too low. So I got 4 longer bolts and used the four top holes. I also cut pieces of 3/8" fuel line to act as rubber insulators so the bracket wasn't touching the metal of the truck to help stop vibration noise.
Dale

[highrisk]

WOOHOO, it worked. The car hasn't been started in almost a month. I turned on the electric pump for about 10 seconds then turned it back off. I pumped the accelerator twice and the engine fired before the engine could even turn over once, it was instant. Plus it stayed running and did not have to be restarted. Normally I would have had to crank it for several seconds and made a couple of attempts to get it started. Then it would have died after running just a couple of seconds requiring you to start it again. So I am very happy, should have did this when I rebuilt the car since I had the same exact problem with the 66 and the electric pump solved its problem.
Thanks for all of the advice and help,
Dale

[nytrainer]

Convinced me. Just got the Carter pump today.

[Tom Vaught]

Posted on that mod several years ago (electric fuel pump with by-pass circuit.)

Carter makes a great street pump, very happy that they now sell the pump with their by-pass system.

Agree, it does work extremely well, Dale.

Big benefit I see is much less cranking load on the battery each time. I could do the pump, set the choke, get out of the car, reach into the window from the outside of the car and turn the key (64 GTO) and the engine would fire up and run every time.

Tom V.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by nytrainer

Convinced me. Just got the Carter pump today.

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Posted on that mod several years ago (electric fuel pump with by-pass circuit.)

Carter makes a great street pump, very happy that they now sell the pump with their by-pass system.

Agree, it does work extremely well, Dale.

Big benefit I see is much less cranking load on the battery each time. I could do the pump, set the choke, get out of the car, reach into the window from the outside of the car and turn the key (64 GTO) and the engine would fire up and run every time.

Tom V.

The kit I bought is the P4602RV which is actually their P4594 pump with the bypass kit and check valve included. The paperwork that came with the pump actually called it a primer/booster pump. I used the same pump on my 66, only 5/16 instead of 3/8. I put it on the car in 85 and it was still going strong in 2007 when I lost the car. It was also the only pump so it ran continuously off of an oil pressure safety switch and a momentary on switch under the dash for priming the carburetor. Very good pumps and I was glad to see they are still made in the USA.
Dale

[MidnightAuto]

I am going to run this play with a pusher pump as well. I am tired of the hard start as weather warms up. I have one silly question - for this carter mentioned at the beginning of this thread , the Carter P4602RV, found here:

https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p4602rv

Its not clear to me what size those hose barbs are? I have 5/16 stock gas line and want to make sure this kit will work with it? Sorry for the silly question, but not clear to me...thanks.

[Tom Vaught]

I had a Holley Blue pump mounted on the trunk "Kick-up" for at least 15 years for priming.

It worked ok but in Hindsight I would today use the Carter Pump.

The hose nipples I believe are 3/8" brass hose nipples but you could replace use them with 5/16 hose fittings.

Tom V.

[MidnightAuto]

Ok got it. Thanks tom, I see those on summit...

[rohrt]

That is a nice setup.

If you turn on the electric pump while its running do you then double the pressure to the carb and flood it? I'm wondering since I had fuel starvation at high RMP if I could connect the electric pump to come on with the kickdown switch?

[MidnightAuto]

Well I’ve got all my parts sorted and went under the car to look at placement as well. I’ve decided I don’t want to drill into the trunk pan and have bolts showing through, although that seems to be easiest/ closest. Seems folks have mentioned attaching to tank strap or cross member as other options. By chance does anyone have a pics of that with a representative 64 or similar a body? My ability to fabricate a bracket is limited, but I did find this site that may be helpful for me if I need something. Www.Onlinemetal.com Anyway, if any pics to help give me ideas, would be appreciated. Thank you.

[pfilean]

I used this under a 61 B body. Mounted on an angle that bolts to the tank strap mounting bolts. This is only intended as a primer pump for tri power so I also used a switch over valve intended for pickup saddle tanks. But as it mounts to the tank straps it is totally removable with no tell tale holes. Hangs a little lower than I would like and maybe someday I'll modify it again.

[MidnightAuto]

Thanks pfilean. Same boat for me - using as a pusher for a tripower. I see a bolt in the top right- is that going through the strap? I can’t really tell if anything else bolted at the top.

[pfilean]

Yeah - it seems there was a hole in the strap for some reason. Not sure what it's purpose was but by using it I had a three point mounting so it wouldn't tend to rattle around the two upper mount points. The angle had holes that just fit the spacing on the original tank straps.

My PO had at one time used the hole as a single mounting point for a pusher pump and he then deleted the mechanical pump. Had a single on/off switch that you had to remember to turn on when you wanted to start and turn off when you killed the engine. Not safe and the pump hummed like hell on that single mount. That arrangement didn't last long after I bought the car.