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#1
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Reinstating Original AC
Our '67 Lemans came from the factory with AC. But the original engine was replaced and in making the switch, the options under the hood (AC and Cruise) were never put back together. Fortunately, most parts for both came with the car. I'm now looking at putting the AC back together. Are any of these parts reusable? The guy I bought it from told me they replaced the engine last year. So these parts have been open and laying around. I had to buy a new receiver-drier that was missing but I've read that it should be replaced any way. A local shop suggested that I put it all back together and they will clean and vacuum it out, then check for leaks. Although this will cost some money I'm thinking that it might be worth a shot. Replacing these parts would be an expensive proposition around here.
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#2
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I too would take the time to re-assembly the system as is, Unless you see obvious issues/concerns.
If the evaporator holds PSI testing and can be successfully flushed to me that half the battle. Most of the other main parts are available. But again getting it back together and tested would be my first step. Change out any/all seals that you can. At the least, if it doesn't pass the test, you would have a correct looking set up while you make the next decision. JM2C Cheers.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jeff Hamlin For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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Thanks, Jeff.
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#4
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I second Jeff, but I would go ahead and replace all of the hoses and honestly at this point I would go ahead and convert to R-134. https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s...it_POAELM.html This is the route i ended up going, and it worked out well. When converting, this guy at Century told me to fill the system to 80% of the original fill when using r134. This is the perfect time to flush out the old oil out of the compressor and replace it with whichever you need for your refrigerant. You'll need 11 ounces of oil. I'm sure you could flush out the condenser now too. Like Jeff said too, replace every single O ring. I ended up buying a cheap air compressor driven vacuum pump from Harbor Freight (like $20) and did all of my vacuuming and filling myself. I did already have a set of AC gauges and bought a set of adapters for the gauges to fit the original fittings on the car, so i have no adapters but am running the R134. I let the gauges set on the car for 2 weeks under vacuum to make sure i had no leaks, and charged to 80% (4 cans of refrigerant) and it's ice cold at 85 degrees outside.
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#5
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Yes, it looks like I'll have to go 134a. There's no r12 around here. Dealing with the POA valve looks to be a pain as well. Hardly anybody does them now. They're all pushing the POA update. I'm not super concerned about originality, so maybe I'll look at that with a new Sanden compressor that can cycle. Does the system work at a reduced capacity without recalibrating the old POA for 134a? Or does it not function at all?
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#6
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Changing to 134a requires recalibrating the POA or eliminating it. One of the two must be done if you want the system to work. Search on the forum here, I recently saw a thread with people having problems with one of the aftermarket compressors. If yours is still good, I would replace the seal behind the clutch and reuse it before i would use the aftermarket. Mine cycles now that i did the Century POA conversion.
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"I know just enough to keep me here, but not enough to get me out" |
The Following User Says Thank You to Cardo For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
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Interesting that you have eliminated the POA and cycle the A6. Gives me hope that I might be able to do this without blowing a wad.
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#8
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Classic Auto Air in Tampa can rebuild/recalibrate your POA...$300....or $240 plus shipping and core charge $75 for one they have in stock. I tried the POA replacement and have had no luck. I just got a rebuilt POA and will be installing that and recharging my AC when the warmer weather gets here. The shipping to me was $24.99...my return shipping(UPS) for the core was $13.25....so they definitely screwed me on shipping!
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#9
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The POA eliminator i used uses a POA that has been cut open, the guts removed, and tig welded back together. It includes a thermal switch with a bulb which converts the system to a cycling system based on the evaporator temperature. $135, and looks stock, and no more problems with the valve. This is not the POA replacement that everyone else is using. https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/s...it_POAELM.html
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"I know just enough to keep me here, but not enough to get me out" |
#10
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R-12 is way down from before, I picked up a 30 lb tank w/ 22 lbs in fir $200.
Stay with r-12. I see it at the swaps for like $25 a can.
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#11
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I have about a dozen cans of r12 and a 15lb tank I got off Craigslist locally.
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#12
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Just drove to Ottawa and picked up this 30 pounder for a great price. And I found an AC guy that will help me out. After I re-assemble everything, he'll pull a vacuum with their nice commercial unit. If there's a leak he will identify it, then I'll take it from there. I'll upgrade as needed, and try again. I'm hoping that I won't have to pull out the evaporator, but we intend to rehabilitate the front clip anyway, so that will have to be two projects in one if it gets to that
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#13
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If you have a POA valve in your system and want it rebuilt and calibrated for R12 or R134, contact Benny Sanchez at Factoryautoair06@gmail.com.
He rebuilt mine for my 69 Catalina as the piston was seized. The A6-based system now blows very cold on R134, along with a new compressor, evaporator, condenser, and heavy duty fan clutch. If the system was designed for POA valve-based control, you will likely have a better experience by staying with that. The A6 compressor in those systems was not designed for a cycling clutch. Also the air temperature of a POA system remains relatively constant instead of swinging up and down 15°F+ as the clutch cycles. |
#14
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Cycling saves a bunch of fuel, if anyone cares..
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