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79firebird_99TA · 05-31-2021, 09:49 AM

As we approach the summer, I'm looking for options regarding the AC in the Firebird. If I do this on the cheap (but right), I should be able to use the existing A6 compressor and prep it for R-134A(change the oil ...or replace it?) , replace the reciever dryer and condensor. I'd flush the lines, replace the orifice tube, evacuate and recharge.

I would appreciate any thoughts or advice. Vintage air might be an option if that's the best route.

burd · 05-31-2021, 10:53 AM

Keep it R12

padgett · 12:11 PM

Is the current system working but low (keep R12) or has it been opened/empty ?

If opened I'd change to R134A. It works good and is available @ $5 a can.

To change I'd flush the system first (some say is not needed with new lubricants, I would anyway.

Next replace needed components (filter/dryer & O-rings anytime it is opened).

Add the proper amount of the proper lubricant (dye is optional). Pull a vacuum, seal it off, and see if it holds ovenight.

If good then load most of a can to bring static pressure above the low pressure setting and fire up with fan on HIGH.
Target at a fast idle with a fan in front of the grille is 30-35 psi on the low side and around 200 psi on high. It will need less R134A than R12

I've bought parts from ACKITS.COM in AZ before and have a 2-stage vacuum pump from HF.

79firebird_99TA · 05-31-2021, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by padgett

Is the current system working but low (keep R12) or has it been opened/empty ?

If opened I'd change to R134A. It works good and is available @ $5 a can.

To change I'd flush the system first (some say is not needed with new lubricants, I would anyway.

Next replace needed components (filter/dryer & O-rings anytime it is opened).

Add the proper amount of the proper lubricant (dye is optional). Pull a vacuum, seal it off, and see if it holds ovenight.

If good then load most of a can to bring static pressure above the low pressure setting and fire up with fan on HIGH.
Target at a fast idle with a fan in front of the grille is 30-35 psi on the low side and around 200 psi on high. It will need less R134A than R12

I've bought parts from ACKITS.COM in AZ before and have a 2-stage vacuum pump from HF.

I'd love to keep it R12 but that was yesteryear for me. The system is open. I have the reciever/dryer and was going to get a parallel condenser and flush the lines and evactuate and recharge. Know of a good source for the condenser?

padgett · 05-31-2021, 06:00 PM

Ask at ACKITS.COm about condensers.

79firebird_99TA · 05-31-2021, 10:35 PM

I might be leaning towards Vintage Air's condenser with dryer. Looks like an easy install.... and good price!

79firebird_99TA · 06-02-2021, 12:14 PM

I have a 33205 accumulator that I bought some time back. Apparently the stock piece has a hard pipe at the bottom of the unit, whereas the 33205 has a female there. I am seeing that others on summitracing have complained about that. So I either need a jumper or just go another route.

79firebird_99TA · 06-02-2021, 12:58 PM

There is an accumulator tube that can be had that has males on both ends which should work. I'm showing 1" ID on the females of the accumulator. Most every one that I see either doesn't list the diameter of the male or it's 3/4". I have 1".

ta6point6 · 06-07-2021, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79firebird_99TA

As we approach the summer, I'm looking for options regarding the AC in the Firebird. If I do this on the cheap (but right), I should be able to use the existing A6 compressor and prep it for R-134A(change the oil ...or replace it?) , replace the reciever dryer and condensor. I'd flush the lines, replace the orifice tube, evacuate and recharge.

I would appreciate any thoughts or advice. Vintage air might be an option if that's the best route.

On most cars of this year the problem has been the A6 compressor. The front seal usually fails. it should leak a little for lubrication but usually fail all together. The rubber lines should be changed for the switch to 134A as well. The cheapest way I found to switch to 134A is to buy the sanden compressor conversion kit. It cost around 500 but came with ac lines, compressor and compressor mount. I flushed existing condensor and evaporator and put a vacuum on it and charged.
This is the one I used for my 403 TA unfortunately doing AC is not cheap. I think I spent another 150 bucks on refrigerant, gauges and ac flush cleaner
https://www.ebay.com/itm/77-79-Fireb...-/400311836222

79firebird_99TA · 06-09-2021, 08:57 AM

For now I'm going to start with the A6 and see what's what. I was able to get the accumulator and tube in yesterday. It was a tight fit ... but it's in. I ran out of solvent for my flush so I'll probably hold off on zipping everything else up. I'm changing the o-rings on everything as I go. I blew out the evaporator and condenser with compressed air, but still want to get the solvent. I also noticed that I'm blowing fuse #6 (AC /Heater) https://www.autogenius.info/pontiac-...e-box-diagram/. All was good until I moved the selector to defrost. Rather than blow fuses I'll troubleshoot by finding what is going to ground on the fuse output prong.

HWYSTR455 · 06-09-2021, 02:00 PM

I tried to do a rebuild/refresh of a factory setup on my 442 project, had the evap case repaired/detailed, rebuilt POA and calibrated for 134, new evap core, all new line, new condenser, drier, etc. That cost more than doing the Vintage Air setup in the long run, and, the performance is questionable. Looking back, I should have went with the VA setup.

I did a VA setup in my judge project, and the performance is excellent.

I just bought the kit for my 71 'bird, I'm not messing around with the 40+ year old crap anymore, it costs more in the long run, and has sub-performance. Do the kit, you know what you're getting.

.

79firebird_99TA · 06-09-2021, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I tried to do a rebuild/refresh of a factory setup on my 442 project, had the evap case repaired/detailed, rebuilt POA and calibrated for 134, new evap core, all new line, new condenser, drier, etc. That cost more than doing the Vintage Air setup in the long run, and, the performance is questionable. Looking back, I should have went with the VA setup.

I did a VA setup in my judge project, and the performance is excellent.

I just bought the kit for my 71 'bird, I'm not messing around with the 40+ year old crap anymore, it costs more in the long run, and has sub-performance. Do the kit, you know what you're getting.

.

Good feedback. Honestly the only reason why I'm going this route is that it cost me 12.00 for the accumulator tube. LOL. I just want to see what it will do. If I'm not satisfied, I'll look at that VA option.

HWYSTR455 · 06-09-2021, 03:03 PM

If you want to look at OE replacement, upgrade, or the like, or even alternatives to VA, you can look at these:

https://www.classicautoair.com/

https://www.originalair.com/

https://www.oldairproducts.com/

I used Classic Auto Air for the 442, and was more than pleased with the parts, service, and info they provide.

They do the best POA rebuilds and calibrations, and Original Air Group now has billet POA replacements.

.

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