[wreckmastr]

Originally Posted by opeliac

I was asking the question here just in case there is someone that has already done what I am planning to do...I know what some Chevy engines use for rods and crank at the level that I am shooting for...I just figured it wouldnt hurt to ask here.

We run MGP aluminum rods and a Billet Bryant center counter weighted crank. As most here have said for what your doing Aluminum rods are what you should run (IMO). Between a proper tune up and Alum. rods the rod bearings should look almost new after 100 runs.

[opeliac]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Parts don't know what make engine it is.....!


GTO George

I agree with that, to some extent...

[opeliac]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Thing is, a Molnar Pontiac forged is not really any better than a Scat. Both do not have all the counterweights.
The highest HP pushed though one of those I know of is 1500 HP with Kinsler on spray. And you have Marty 1600 HP (RA V crank ?)
You can buy a BBC Molnar fully counterweight,ed crank for 900$. Forged cranks like those do not exist for Pontiacs.
BTW, I asked Mr. Molnar what it would take to make some for us and he said 150K for the tooling and sitting on them for 10 years before you get your investment. Not going to happen.

At any rate, I suspect any BBC pushing 2400 HP with TTs has the type of forged crank that has never been available for Pontiacs. That is why the Pontiac big dogs run billet. Not because its any stronger, just fully counterweight,ed.
I will never build a 2400 HP TT Pontiac. But would not even let it enter my mind to try and do it with a Scat or Molanr crank. End up scrap metal.

I started to buy a billet, and was talked out of it by several people...Travis Quillen was one of them...Said to run the forged crank and spend the extra money on better rods...

Ed at Molnar seems to think his crank wont have a problem holding up...

[opeliac]

Originally Posted by wreckmastr

We run MGP aluminum rods and a Billet Bryant center counter weighted crank. As most here have said for what your doing Aluminum rods are what you should run (IMO). Between a proper tune up and Alum. rods the rod bearings should look almost new after 100 runs.

What power adder do you run?

[PAUL K]

I would without a doubt use a custom Carillo rod for your application. If you design the piston (billet) and rod properly you wont be much heavier than an aluminum rod set up. You will have a much longer life with the Carrillo rods and not have to worry about untorqing the rod bolts in the off season. Keep an eye on the rod bearings until you establish your tune up. After that they won't be an issue.

[wreckmastr]

Originally Posted by opeliac

What power adder do you run?

F3-136 Procharger

[opeliac]

Originally Posted by wreckmastr

F3-136 Procharger

I can see running a billet crank with that combo...

What kind of car do you run it in?

[wreckmastr]

All steel 69 GTO on radials. Nothing special.

[opeliac]

Originally Posted by wreckmastr

All steel 69 GTO on radials. Nothing special.

Why didnt you say Sikgoat? LOL

Nothing special huh? Only the baddest 69 GTO on the planet.

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by opeliac

I started to buy a billet, and was talked out of it by several people...Travis Quillen was one of them...Said to run the forged crank and spend the extra money on better rods...

Ed at Molnar seems to think his crank wont have a problem holding up...

Seems to think.......? He playing with your money.
Molnar.....Chinese crank, 2,500hp.....have fun!

GTO George

[opeliac]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Seems to think.......? He playing with your money.
Molnar.....Chinese crank, 2,500hp.....have fun!

GTO George

Yeah, Eagle cranks aren’t supposed to run fast in a nitrous bbc car either, but they have.

I’m not stressing the crankshaft in the least bit. The rods are really my main focus.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by wreckmastr

We run MGP aluminum rods and a Billet Bryant center counter weighted crank. As most here have said for what your doing Aluminum rods are what you should run (IMO). Between a proper tune up and Alum. rods the rod bearings should look almost new after 100 runs.

Now those are some heavy duty wrist pins.

[wreckmastr]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Now those are some heavy duty wrist pins.

1.094"

[taff2]

Looks like pin buttons, or is that the actual thickness of the pins?
I've never slackened the rod bolts over winter in any of my ali rod engines - maybe if you live in the North Pole yeah.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by wreckmastr

1.094"

We ran the 1.094" wrist pins as well. Funny BME story. At the end of a season when we finally had the Boss Bird running well, I sent back 16 wrist pins to BME for inspection. They were H11 pins for Top alcohol engines. About a week later, I get a call from Bill himself. He says, "I got good news and bad news for you!". "The bad news is all 16 wrist pins are bent, some .005"-.006. The good news is your dumb little Pontiac is making enough power to bend my wrist pins!". He replaced them all with their Vasco-Jet top fuel pins at no charge. He said, "you guys won't bend these". He was right and they were 12 grams lighter than the H11 pins. BTW, why nitro engines bend wrist pins? It's all the timing lead they need to burn the fuel. Our engine ran best at 53-55 degrees lead. Lots of liquid fuel to vaporize and burn. Higher power nitro engines run about 70 degrees of lead. Tremendous force on those pins.

[wreckmastr]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

We ran the 1.094" wrist pins as well. Funny BME story. At the end of a season when we finally had the Boss Bird running well, I sent back 16 wrist pins to BME for inspection. They were H11 pins for Top alcohol engines. About a week later, I get a call from Bill himself. He says, "I got good news and bad news for you!". "The bad news is all 16 wrist pins are bent, some .005"-.006. The good news is your dumb little Pontiac is making enough power to bend my wrist pins!". He replaced them all with their Vasco-Jet top fuel pins at no charge. He said, "you guys won't bend these". He was right and they were 12 grams lighter than the H11 pins. BTW, why nitro engines bend wrist pins? It's all the timing lead they need to burn the fuel. Our engine ran best at 53-55 degrees lead. Lots of liquid fuel to vaporize and burn. Higher power nitro engines run about 70 degrees of lead. Tremendous force on those pins.

LOL Yeah 4 or 5 years ago we changed from the H11 to the H13 and never had any more problems. Boost itself is hard on the pins and bearings I don't even want to think about the Nitro factor! I'll stick with this small power stuff.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by taff2

Looks like pin buttons, or is that the actual thickness of the pins?
I've never slackened the rod bolts over winter in any of my ali rod engines - maybe if you live in the North Pole yeah.

If you read the instructions with the BME rods and most others they recommend it if you live in the cold climate States. I never have either and only had a few crack because of it.... According to the rod manufacturer.

[taff2]

ps, my cars are always garaged and it doesn't get that cold over here even in Winter. (except for that one time I left the car in the trailer for a week and the block froze and cracked, but that's another story

[cgeise]

for what its worth I ran CROWER fully counterweighted billet crank never an issue.

[opeliac]

Originally Posted by wreckmastr

We run MGP aluminum rods and a Billet Bryant center counter weighted crank. As most here have said for what your doing Aluminum rods are what you should run (IMO). Between a proper tune up and Alum. rods the rod bearings should look almost new after 100 runs.

How many runs do you guys typically put on the rods before replacing them?