[Lee]

Originally Posted by MarkS57

This is what I've been using lately...

https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing.../dp/B01M24GGLQ

I'm mainly using Driven's LS30 oil.

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by whittp

I may end up running the Comp 51-433-11 HR cam with the Crower 66294E lifters. This sounds like the set up you have in one of yours can you give me advise on push rods and valve spring pressure? The shop sounds like they want to go with this set up but I want to double check their work.

My KRE heads were setup with Crane 99893 springs. I'm running one of Dave's Cams, Comp Road paver 246/252 and Crower Solid roller lifters # 66260H-16. Lash is set around .004 or .005 cold. Have had 2 engines like this. No issues to date. 600 hp/600 t.
Pushrods are 7/16" x .116 wall.


Charles

[whittp]

The car is back on the street now and has about 100 miles on it. Break in oil looks like it was new at this point. I ended up going with the same Comp cam 51-433-11 and Johnson lifters. We performed the lifter bore modification as well. So far the engine runs great and is fairly quiet around the valve train. Much better than before. Oddly enough, the engine now makes enough vacuum to run the power brakes. I was using a vacuum pump before this rebuild. The shop said the cam was retarded a few degrees and they installed it at zero. I'm looking forward to my first oil change at 500 miles I'll be cutting the filter and hopefully not finding much.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by whittp

Would I have the option of changing to flat tappet cam and lifters while keeping my same rockers and push rods? I don't have the specs in front of me right now I attached a picture maybe that'll help.

Great news you have it fixed!

Have you seen this option by Randy Repp (Pontiac Speedshop) ? It's a retaining plate for off the shelf OEM production roller lifters. He sells the plate and the lifters (Sealed Power - USA made). I met him at Norwalk and he walked me through the install process - I will be using on my next build.

https://pontiacspeedshop.com/valvetr...-plate-system/

https://pontiacspeedshop.com/sealed-...oller-lifters/

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...=846858&page=3

[taktikian]

Thinking of running the Crower solids on the Crower 60245 hydraulic myself. Just got my con rods from Goatzilla and now is the time. What do I need to know about before making that decision. Currently have the CamSaver hydraulics but am concerned about ticking of a lifter or two. That would drive me more crazy than the steady clatter of solids. Really do not want to start all over with cam selection. Any thoughts?

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by taktikian

Thinking of running the Crower solids on the Crower 60245 hydraulic myself.

I would contact Crower and verify that they consider that acceptable.

I'm wary of using solid lifters on a hydraulic cam. Hydraulic cams have short take-up ramps.

[leeklm]

"I would contact Crower and verify that they consider that acceptable"

Just curious.... do any of the cam manufacturers advocate using solid rollers on their hyd profile cams?

I realize it is a common practice (also used in my engine), but would be interesting if any manufacturers would actually say yes, go right ahead...

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[NeighborsComplaint]

The fact that those roller lifters try to self-align themselves with no spring pressure on them whatsoever with the cam being slowly turned by hand doesn't really sell me. In a real world environment of half engine RPM, heavy valve springs and the inertial load of the lifter mass, their action is going to be a little different don't you think?

The fact that there are so many link bar failures tells me the rollers aren't exactly self-aligning themselves in actual operation and I think the knife edge of those flat plates is not going to last very long as the lifters attempt to rotate. Think about the way your pushrod guide plates are constructed. They are heavy gauge steel plate with wide wear surfaces (turned down lips) that are self-gusseted in the stamping process just for the pushrods that slide by.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

The fact that those roller lifters try to self-align themselves with no spring pressure on them whatsoever with the cam being slowly turned by hand doesn't really sell me. In a real world environment of half engine RPM, heavy valve springs and the inertial load of the lifter mass, their action is going to be a little different don't you think?

The fact that there are so many link bar failures tells me the rollers aren't exactly self-aligning themselves in actual operation and I think the knife edge of those flat plates is not going to last very long as the lifters attempt to rotate. Think about the way your pushrod guide plates are constructed. They are heavy gauge steel plate with wide wear surfaces (turned down lips) that are self-gusseted in the stamping process just for the pushrods that slide by.

Isn’t a dog-bone system similar in principle and already in service by other manufacturers?

[P@blo]

I decided I would go HFT cam/lifter combination even though I bought all the parts for the dog-bone roller lifter modification. Once I can see a set-up rack some serious daily driver mileage maybe I will pull the trigger.

Not worth being the test subject in any regards especially nowadays...

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by grivera

Isn’t a dog-bone system similar in principle and already in service by other manufacturers?

Check the qauge of the material used on the dog bones.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by P@blo

I decided I would go HFT cam/lifter combination

Good luck. Far as I'm concerned, that's a riskier move than using a roller cam.

Make sure the cam is surface-hardened. Well worth the added cost for nitriding.

https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech...iding-process/

[P@blo]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Good luck. Far as I'm concerned, that's a riskier move than using a roller cam.

Make sure the cam is surface-hardened. Well worth the added cost for nitriding.

https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech...iding-process/

Thanks for posting the nitriding link Schurkey. Because of my location I will probably just remove my inner springs, use low ratio rockers, specific oil, and Rhoads lifters with the additional cam lobe oiling option. If I lose a lobe I will be able to tell early by verifying push-rod rotation with a roller not so much.

Hopefully after the above there are quite a few trouble free miles ahead but life offers no guarantees either way.