[S.F.]

Hello!

I am calling from Sweden and have a GTO 1966 sold new in Sweden december 1965.

I have a 455+ .040". All balance an ARP.
RPM steel rods.
Older SealPower forge piston, zerodeck.
SFI balancer and Flywheel.
12- Bolt with 3.08 Richnond gears and Eaton diff.
TH400 with new parts and Trans Go Shiftkit.
OEM 13" welded converter with 2500 stall.

Right now 1971 #96 heads, milled for 9.7 comp and little bowl and matchport.

420 hp and 515 tq on DynoDynamics chassi dyno.

OEM 1971 intake, matchport and 0.5" 4 hole spacer.

Crower 60243 cam, PRW stainless 1:65 rockers and SealPower HT951R HighRev Lifters.

Ignitor 3 in OEM disturber.

Looks almost original 1971-72 455 under hood.

My question:

Kan I use my #7M5, 8,2 comp heads and som kind of boost for a little race at low level (maby 500 to 600 hp) for fun att musclecar meatings in Sweden at summertime or can I do better spending money on other stuff?

Thank You from S.F. in Sweden.

[Tom Vaught]

You could run a Vortech/Paxton supercharger or a Procharger supercharger at LOW boost pressures and easily make your target goal of 600 rear wheel hp.

Luhn Performance made 862 HP on a 455 engine at 5300 rpm with a simple Vortech
T-Trim centrifugal supercharger.

Some would think the supercharger was a A/C compressor if they did not look closely.

Tom V.

[S.F.]

Thank You for the fast answer!

The cars usually at the race meetings I see are in low 11 to high 10 sec.
I just dont want to be much slower and do not want Aluminium heads.
A small "sleeper" blower may be the best option for my goals.

I will go thru the heads and I have a set of ARP rockerstuds.

Again thank You!

From S.F. in Sweden.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by S.F.

Thank You for the fast answer!

The cars usually at the race meetings I see are in low 11 to high 10 sec.
I just dont want to be much slower and do not want Aluminium heads.
A small "sleeper" blower may be the best option for my goals.

I will go thru the heads and I have a set of ARP rockerstuds.

Again thank You!

From S.F. in Sweden.

You made a good choice staying with the iron heads over aluminum . The aluminum over time becomes a problem because it slowing starts annealing from the constant up an down heat ..

Like Tom said , you will easily meet your power goal ..

Good luck ....

[S.F.]

Thank You!

It is good to here that OEM heads can be a good choise.

From S.F in Sweden

[steve25]

Heads are fine, but no stock valves unless you want to chance them failing on you.

[S.F.]

Thank You for information.
I will use Steinless valves and good springs.

From S.F. in Sweden.

[Half-Inch Stud]

7M5s should be good to work for you on boost. I set up a set of 7M5s for boost. Screw in studs, 6- exhaust holes, filled crossovers. Ported a little.

[S.F.]

Thank You!

I have ARP bolts and will pull the pressed ones.

Steinless longer valves.

A little matchporting and pocket clean upp.

Check for cracks is first on the list. Cracks is common on 7M5.

Right now shifting between High comp heads or low comp and boost.

Building a Subaru Forester with big turbo and support to now.

Dont do that.

Too much money for the power with Japanese turbo cars.

Thank You from S.F. in Sweden.

(Subaru for all the snow we have here in Sweden.)