[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by Fishin2Deep4U

The simple answer is yes. Especially with a gear tooth type hall sensor.

But, I want a sharper rising and falling edge. A very simple flat tab with a 90 bent into the end will work. Possibly cut off material on either end of the polled area to create loss of signal. BTW, the Chevy Vortec dizzy uses a poll gear arrangement as well. It's another one to look at.

I actually have a modified front cover that also works, but it's not as simple as the fuel pump block off. It requires precise positioning and the possibility of cam trust can affect the min/ max free air tolerance. The easiest answer is the oil pump drive/ sensor. All in one, wiring to the rear of the block. This is why I considered the Ford Explorer sensor. Again, easily accessible to replacement parts and cheap to boot. The hard part is grafting the pieces together and I have attempted to source some dizzys for this purpose.

I will be machining the parts at work, but I am trying to come up with a dirt cheap, DIY for the masses method of doing this.

But at hand, Where's our EFI specific forum?

Dave

That is a good description of a late 80's efi buick v6 cam sensor flag... Wouldnt be hard to mod a fuel pump eccentric to look similar... been 10 yrs but I seem to recall the sensor flag on my buick was @ 1/2"- 5/8" wide.(BTW all my 88 EFI fwd motor stuff including roller cam and heads/intake/oil pump/timing cover fit my rwd 82 Cadillac/Buick 252 just fine... was going to be a street rod motor... my son was storing it when I 1st moved to Tn... junked it by mistake and kept the blown up 231 fwd block... he was rather embarrassed...I'm still ticked.)

EFI controller like MS can make for a fine ignition controller and for data logging if you really dont want efi or feel you have to run a carb...

I think a seperate efi forum would be nice.

[krisr]

Well, i'm finally mustering up the courage to modify the valve covers I made a little while ago and run 4 x LS1 coils on either side. In the engine at the moment currently is a modified MSD Pro Billet for cam sync, but I've got a spare points Mallory distributor which i'm going to remove the points and advance assembly out of and see how hard it would be to adapt something like this for cam sync rather than cut up my Pro Billet distributor - http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/h...sor-p-489.html



As the mallory distributor is a small body thing, it shouldn't look too out of place hopefully.

Megasquirt 3X will be firing these puppies one at a time too

[Ollie]

Is something like this what you have in mind.

[krisr]

Yep, that looks like a stock Pontiac dist body though? The mallory unit I have is alot smaller than a stocker. If I could get away with it, i'd love to put a cam sensor on the timing gear and just have a small plug to drive the pump up the back and nothing else.

If I could get hold of an old MSD CPC cam sync plug, i'd love to cut it down, put a Pontiac gear on the end and try make it work...

[Ollie]

This is not a cut down stock distributor.
This is the lower half of an Accel two part duel point distributor PN37102.

[TheSilverBuick]

This is on my Buick 455 so it doesn't translate perfectly, but you'll get the drift.

Trued up the inside of the crank pulley so it was flat, mostly scraped the paint off of it, and opened up the trigger wheel off a ~'90 Ford Escort. Pinned them together.





Some square aluminum tubing and rivets for a bracket (I can't weld aluminum). Same sensor, just a different color.



I've made two different types of cam sensors now.

My HEI mod. Grind all the teeth off except one on the reluctor and pick up coil. Works like a champ.



Or what I did on the Pontiac OHC straight six, which I haven't tested yet, but am sure will work. Cut down the distributor plate into a tab and grabbed a cam sensor from a late 90's GM 4-cylinder (from the junkyard..).


I finally started on the valve cover coil pack mounts. Kind of goofed the alignment on cylinder #2, but figure I'll care less when it's hiding behind the A/C compressor. Simple steel tubing stands tacked in three places to the valve cover with a nut tacked welded to the top of each for the screw.

[krisr]

I built up the courage (thanks to a couple of JD's) and decided to attack my valve covers with the TIG. I had a spare set of LS1 leads lying around so I decided to recrimp the coil end of the leads onto my cut down MSD's. Its taken me an hour to do 2 leads

Welded the other cover but a weld cracked 6" away from where I'd been welding so had to play "chase the crack". I'll need to repolish that cover again, but it's as good as done now.

[TheSilverBuick]

I just got my distributorless system working yesterday (Buick).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGSrY...Jo4BJ5Am4jH-sA

[lfdsteve]

Running a powerjection 3 setup here. Would have been nice to have a section to turn to to evaluate all the alternatives as each manufacturers website is only their product specific.
For example it would have been nice to know that almost universally it is understood that the fuel pump and fuel filter supied by PP with the kit won't work. The fuel on demand system really is short lived and almost always ends up in a return line setup. Oh don't forget the throttle position sensor and temp sensor almost always need to be replaced right out of the box as the supplied units almost always fail. There own tech guys( should I say their old tech guys as no one from the company posts on their forum any longer) admit that it's not a self learning, plug and play system.
With all that I have been able to navigate into a setup that now seems to run very well. Probably should have cut and run earlier instead of patching this together but was into it for too much cash to change directions.
Anyway, not bitching but would love an EFI section so others can get non biased accounts of how each of these setups run.
Steve

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by lfdsteve

Running a powerjection 3 setup here. Would have been nice to have a section to turn to to evaluate all the alternatives as each manufacturers website is only their product specific.
For example it would have been nice to know that almost universally it is understood that the fuel pump and fuel filter supied by PP with the kit won't work. The fuel on demand system really is short lived and almost always ends up in a return line setup. Oh don't forget the throttle position sensor and temp sensor almost always need to be replaced right out of the box as the supplied units almost always fail. There own tech guys( should I say their old tech guys as no one from the company posts on their forum any longer) admit that it's not a self learning, plug and play system.
With all that I have been able to navigate into a setup that now seems to run very well. Probably should have cut and run earlier instead of patching this together but was into it for too much cash to change directions.
Anyway, not bitching but would love an EFI section so others can get non biased accounts of how each of these setups run.
Steve

I think what I like most about MegaSquirt is the support thats available pretty big forum and seems there is always someone who has the right answer when you need it.

[Fishin2Deep4U]

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

I think what I like most about MegaSquirt is the support thats available pretty big forum and seems there is always someone who has the right answer when you need it.

Agreed. This is what attracted me to the MS family. There are just do many different installs on so many types of engines. It's nice to have that depth of knowledge when trying to do a relatively "simple" type install.

Dave

[krisr]

All mods complete - made up the leads from a set of old LS1 leads I had laying around (coil end) and recrimped onto cut down existing MSD leads with a bit of persuasion - all ohm'd out fine.

Have modified the wiring harness to add the trigger/power/ground for the coils and add in oil pressure & fuel pressure monitoring. Fuel pressure works a treat, oil pressure I won't know until I get it running.

Once I get the spare mallory distributor modified/machined down so it's just a true cam sensor, this will mark the last mod I made to the motor I think

[Ollie]

Hay, guys, We should be posting these on the forum to help get the EFI posting count up. Not hidden 5 pages deep in a sticky.

[darbikrash]

Here is my version of a 1x cam signal for the Holley sequential port EFI. I started with a stub out from BOP, and made up the machined pieces to build up the extra length necessary to allow for a Hall effect sensor mounted vertically.

Inside there is a shutter type of wheel with a notch to give a “falling edge” trigger to the sensor. The pieces will be hard anodized after fit check. Note the cam drive gear is upside down in the photos.

Motor is a 461 with Old Faithful HR cam (modified to 114 LSA), and KRE 305 CFM heads.



Hall effect sensor


Shutter wheel with cap removed


Cap inverted with sensor protruding through


Steel washers fabbed up to keep the distrubtor clamp from tearing up the soft aluminum



Mock up on the block

[Ollie]

I like what British V8 has done with a Ford cam position sensor.
This is posted on the MegaSquirt forums.
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...p?f=71&t=51205

This was fabricated for a Rover/Buick V8.
No reason why it could not be done for a Pontiac.

[Engine-Ear]

RE: Shutter Wheel pic - is there a balance issue? Seems like a meaningful fraction of the disc is cut away. Thoughts?

[TheSilverBuick]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

RE: Shutter Wheel pic - is there a balance issue? Seems like a meaningful fraction of the disc is cut away. Thoughts?

Could get it balanced, but really between the small diameter of the disc and the actual small size of the disc the imbalance is negligable in the grand scheme of things. Plus remember it spins at half the engine rpm speed.

Works like a charm. Blue line is 36-1 trigger wheel, green is the cam signal.

[darbikrash]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

RE: Shutter Wheel pic - is there a balance issue? Seems like a meaningful fraction of the disc is cut away. Thoughts?

It is supported by a Oilite bushing fairly high up the shaft, so the bending moment is quite short. Ideally, there would be perfect balance of mass, but with a stiff supporting shaft it should be OK.

The best check is to place a hand on the outer housing when it's running to see if it has any excessive vibrations. If it turns out to be an issue I can relieve material (remove mass) on the opposite side of the slot from the bottom face so as to not interrupt the sensor.

[darbikrash]

Back from the anodizer and installed on the engine.

[RAIV-Z]

Nice setup.