Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 05-12-2004, 04:34 PM
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Hi, TinInjun, NewsFlash-I am aware of the wiring location and it's origin on my 70, if you look closely at the photo and you will see the black wire does have a pink stripe on it, you are correct about the color code. However Replacing the wire from the ignition to the fuse block on the inside of the car will do nothing as far as correcting the resistance problems inability to supply a full 12 volts, once the ignition has been activated. It is the current out of the fuseblock going to the distributor that needs to be replaced as Paul mentioned earlier. Also many times guys will just splice in the HEI connector at some point without tracing down it's origin, this also does little to correct this issue. P.S. I have measured the voltage to confirm this some 28 years ago on my Earlier Year Pontiacs. MRDAN7

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Old 05-12-2004, 05:48 PM
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Hey I replaced the engine harness on my 69 do you think the modern ones have have resitance on the black wire pink stripe?

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  #23  
Old 05-12-2004, 06:18 PM
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If you are still running points, the resistance wire is OK. If you upgraded to an HEI you will need a full 12 volts. Just check it with a voltmeter if unsure.-JimT

  #24  
Old 05-12-2004, 06:22 PM
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power vavles are not the same as accelerator pumps...

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Old 05-12-2004, 07:12 PM
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Thanks Issach. I bought myself a book on Holley carbs and will find out for myself what they both do.

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  #26  
Old 05-12-2004, 08:51 PM
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Did it miss before you changed jets? I have an 850 Demon on my motor and I was trying out different jets at the track and when I ran smaller jets the car missed and popped and banged when I made a run. Leaned it out too much. Put the bigger jets back in and no more missing, ran perfect. I also run Autolites. Just something to look at.

  #27  
Old 05-12-2004, 08:58 PM
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Thanks Bret. No, it didn't pop before I changed jets but I didn't run it quite as hard as I did this last time. That being said, I was thinking it might be the jets too. I've got a set of 77s. I'll probably try those. One up from the 76s I switched to but still one down from the 78s that came with the carb.

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  #28  
Old 05-13-2004, 06:10 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MRDAN7:
if you look closely at the photo and you will see the black wire does have a pink stripe on it <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The resistance wire has "pink print" not a pink stripe. Also when checking voltage at the coil the engine must be running. Not off with the key in the on position.

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  #29  
Old 05-13-2004, 06:37 AM
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Quote: POSTED BY TININJUN: "It runs from the ignition switch the the bulkhead connector in the passenger compartment"

None of my Pontiacs had Bulkheads, my boat did, so do the planes I Fly on, but my car just has a Firewall, ALSO THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT DOES NOT HAVE THE "BULKHEAD CONNECTOR" The Fuse-Block & it's wiring is located on THE DRIVERS SIDE in CARS... MRDAN7

  #30  
Old 05-13-2004, 03:01 PM
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The fact remains that the blk/pink stripe wire is not the resistance wire.
There is only one wire going to the + side of the coil on a '70. Explain to me how it can become a non-resistance wire during start, then swap to a resistance wire during run. H'mmm something to think about.

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  #31  
Old 05-13-2004, 03:29 PM
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The 69 wire harness changed drastically

the new ignition switch for 69 (column mounted) put 12 volts on cranking mode then when the key was let go and the switch went to the "on" or running postion, the voltage was reduced from another wire - the resistence wire. If memory serves me, is at the fuse block connection or bulkhead - its not at the coil like the 68 and earlier Pontiacs.

Tom at M&H educated me on all this way back when. Gotta give the man props - he is a genious. My old 69 bird had a factory harness that I deleted wires not needed and ran my own non resistance wire to the positive coil connection. I'm pretty sure I connected both wires or ran a new wire replacing the resistance wire - but this requires completly disassembling the harness. easiest fix is to just simply run a separate regular wire to the coil to a 12 volt source that is off when the key is off. you can go right to the fuse block, the wiper motor, idle stop soleniod etc.

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  #32  
Old 05-13-2004, 03:37 PM
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By the way, I've written some articles and tech Q&A's on all this in HPP

if you ever heard a guy say HEI's or XXX distributors are junk and the points ran better - that is one reason why

also, MSD (and other companies) supplies a balast resister with their coils, some applications require less then 12 volts. I've seen guys hook up the balast resisters to resistance reduced coil wires!! So read up on your ignition system applications and get out the volt meters.

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  #33  
Old 05-20-2004, 01:16 PM
69GPModJ 69GPModJ is offline
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Heh, heh. I feel a little stupid posting this but thought I'd let everyone who suggested a solution know what the problem was.

Turns out it was just some fouled plugs. Changed the plugs and it revs as high as I need now without any complaints.

I didn't think it would be the plugs, though I knew it was running rich for a while. It ran for only a couple hundred miles with new plugs before I swapped 76 jets for the 78s the carb came with. Yet, it seems the new plugs got fouled in that short span.

So, yet newer plugs and it's running fine. Plugs look better too with the new jets.

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