Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiacs includes factory 403,305,350 Chevy, Buick V6,
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:43 PM
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Default Taking the plunge: LS3 into a '64 Tempest

It's time for me to start planning my LS3 engine swap, the car I'm using for my project is my '64 Pontiac Tempest 'sleeper' that was powered by a mild 455 Tri-Power engine. I have owned a 2002 WS6 A4 convertible since new so I know just how great these LSX engines are, my 100% stock 5.7 T/A is 1/2 second quicker in the 1/4 than my 455 Tempest.

My Tempest is NOT a hard-core Pro-Touring car. Link to car details:http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...Pontiac-owner.

I want to keep it low-key and continue the sleeper theme. The bench seat and column shifter will stay, with no changes to the stock dash/gauges. I already have oil pressure, trans and and water temp gauges under the dash, I'll add other gauges if needed. I won't need a tach, the trans will be programmed to shift before the engine redline. But if it seems like a good idea to add one, I will.

Having the power of a new '08 Corvette should make it a lot more fun. I won't add aftermarket engine dress-up items, add an engine cover, move the coil packs off the valve covers or anything like that.

Knocking a good 250 to 300 pounds off the front end with an all-aluminum V8 should do wonders for handling. Plus a new fuel-injected 6.2 engine should give me close to a 130 HP boost (hoping the stock LS3 with headers/2.5" mandrell-bent exhaust will be close to 460 HP) and reward me with close to double my current fuel mileage (9-10 city, 12-13 highway with 2.56 gears).

My low-compression (8.2:1) 335 HP 455 wasn't the most fuel-efficient engine, but it was dead-reliable and put together with all stock Pontiac parts. It easily yanked the 'ol Tempest (3780# without driver) into the high 13s in the 1/4 (13.899 @ 101.85), using 1st and 2nd gear only, I'm sure knocking off some weight and adding 130 HP will knock over a second off my ET.







I want to install a new LS3 430 HP crate engine, the only mod to the engine will be a set of headers and a tune. I want to keep it a reliable, smooth-running and fuel-efficient package, so no big cam or other mods. I plan on buying the wiring harness from GM that's made for the LS3 crate engine, unless there's a better or cheaper alternative.

I will be running an automatic trans of some kind, and it's very important that I keep the trans mounted in the stock location as I want to keep the factory column shifter and linkage. I don't want to run any conversion mounts that will jack up the engine/trans or move them forward or back from the stock location.

I'm hoping to find a combination of mostly stock GM accessory drives that will work with my plan of keeping the engine/trans in the stock location. Same thing goes for the oil pan and header selection. I'd prefer to run a factory pan of some kind (good luck, maybe the LH8?), but if I need an aftermarket pan of some sort to provide crossmember to pan as well as tie rod to pan clearance I'll buy one.

Right now the way the car is set up, I'm using a TH400 trans with the original ST300 2-speed auto shift linkage, the steering column and shifter detent have been modified (column slots lengthened for more travel, new low-gear detent step welded on) in order to select all 3 gears.

I'll either add a Gear Vendor OD to the existing TH400 (freshly rebuilt) with tight 10" Continental 3200 converter (also spankin' new) , or go with a 4L60E or possibly a 4L80E. Not sure if I want to deal with electronic auto trans control or not, but with the DBW LS3 engine it may be the best way to go.

Cruise control would be nice. I'll put the TH400/10" Continental in one of my other cars and go for a modern GM OD auto if that's the best route, hopefully without too much hammering on the trans tunnel. My column shift should be adaptable, I'll let the new 4L60E do all the shifting after I pop it into either Drive or OD with my lil' Granny column shifter.

Air conditioning is a must, a Vintage Air setup or whatever will be installed, so I'll need to accomodate an A/C compressor in the accessory drives.

I would like to run an in-tank fuel pump. Would any of the aftermarket Chevelle stainless steel tanks adapt to the Tempest/Lemans/GTO? I know the filler necks are different, perhaps the Tempest neck could be added to one. I can mod my stock tank if that would be a better way to go.

The rear end has been changed from th 2.56 open rear that was original to the car to a 3.36 posi. It is a factory 1966 GTO 8.2" 10-bolt so I hope it will hang in there a while if I don't thrash it too hard, this isn't a drag car with sticky tires so it should be okay.

Any help with putting together a shopping list for engine mounts, oil pan, accessory drives, headers (again keeping in mind the trans needs to stay put in the stock location) along with a fuel system and any electronics/wiring I'll need to buy would be greatly appreciated.

My apologies for the long-winded post, I tried not to leave anything out.




  #2  
Old 10-04-2008, 08:22 PM
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Default LS3 specs, for those unfamiliar with this fantastic powerplant...

2008 "LS3" 6.2L V8, (new GM crate engines are selling for right around $6200 + $895 for the wiring harness/controller/drive by wire throttle pedal assy, not bad)

Type:......................................6.2L Gen IV V8
Displacement:...........................6162cc (376.0 ci)
Compression ratio:....................10.7:1
Valve configuration:..................2 valves/cylinder, 2.16" hollow-stem intake/1.60" exhaust
Rocker arms:..........................1.7:1 roller with 6mm offset intake rockers
Assembly site:........................St. Catharines, Ontario
Valve lifters: ..........................hydraulic roller
Camshaft:..............................(204/211 @ .050, .551"/.521" lift)
Firing order: ...........................1 - 8 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3
Bore x stroke:.........................103.25 x 92mm (4.06" X 3.62")
Fuel system: ..........................sequential fuel injection
Fuel type:...............................premium fuel recommended
Bore Center:............................4.40" (111.76 mm)
Fuel shut off:..........................6600 rpm
Emissions controls:...................catalytic converter three-way catalyst positive crankcase ventilation

Applications: hp ( kw )/Torque ( Nm )
Chevrolet Corvette:
430(321kW) @ 5900 / 424(575Nm) @ 4600 SAE CERTIFIED

Chevrolet Corvette w/ Optional Exhaust:
436(325kW) @ 5900 / 428(580Nm) @ 4600 SAE CERTIFIED


Materials:
Block:......................cast aluminum
Cylinder head:...........cast aluminum (324/199 cfm intake/exhaust @ .550" lift)

Intake manifold: .......composite
Exhaust manifold:......cast nodular iron
Main bearing caps:.....powder metal
Crankshaft:..............cast iron with undercut and rolled fillets
Camshaft:................hollow steel
Connecting rods:.......forged powder metal

  #3  
Old 10-04-2008, 09:30 PM
Old Blue 66 Old Blue 66 is offline
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Do you mind me asking where you get a 2008 Vette motor?? Just currious. Did it come out of a wrecked car or can you buy it from GM?

  #4  
Old 10-05-2008, 01:05 AM
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Paul,

The LS3 is readily available as a brand-new crate engine from GM, they also sell a special wiring harness for engine swaps into older cars.

Link to an LS3 crate engine from Pace Performance, one of many sellers offering GM crate engines of all types:http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=228371

The LS3 was recently tested, along with 7 other GM crate engines in the October '08 issue of Hot Rod Magazine. The stock 430 HP LS3 with the addition of a set of headers ran 11.333 at 114.23 MPH in a race-prepped 3334# '69 Chevelle, running 4.44 gears and a high-stall 8" race torque converter and 10.5X28" slicks.

I can see it powering my car to easy mid-12s, just like the new 'vette road tests show. The Tempest should weigh right about 3500# without driver with the much lighter all-aluminum engine. I expect to be getting mileage numbers in the mid-teens in the city and low to mid 20s on the highway with a 4-speed auto OD trans, the more aerodynamic '08 Corvette (around 3300#) is EPA rated 16/26 city/highway MPG.

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Old 10-05-2008, 01:48 AM
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Bart-

Very very cool. This build just went to the top of my list of 'builds to watch'....

Not sure I have much help to offer right now except for some encouragement. BTW... I like the idea of the 4L80E.

Scott.

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Old 10-05-2008, 01:49 AM
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Sounds like a fun project! I assume you followed Andrew's '70 build?

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=553683

I've enjoyed watching that one come together.

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Old 10-05-2008, 02:29 AM
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Thanks guys, this project is still in the initial planning stage right now.

I think the direction I'm heading in is going to work out pretty well. I really want to have most of the parts sitting here before I buy the engine (24-month warranty), I need to get all of my ducks in a row before starting to turn the wrenches.

Still not sure if a takeout LS3 engine from a wrecked low-miles 'vette would be better for me, it would at least have all the accessories intact and other various pieces I can use for the swap. I'm open to any good options at this point.

I have followed Andrew's very impressive build and I'm hoping he'll chime in and help to steer me in the right direction. I have posted a copy of this thread on the LS1tech.com and Pro-Touring.com forums since I'm looking as much helpful input as I can gather.

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Old 10-05-2008, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzbk2l View Post
Sounds like a fun project! I assume you followed Andrew's '70 build?

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=553683

I've enjoyed watching that one come together.
x2. Look thru Andrew's thread for alot of LSx/GTO info.

Bart - I don't thnk you will have an issue with mounting the LSx in the stock location. I put an LSx/4L60e into a 1990 Chevy truck (same truck as mine - 454SS), using the original big block mounts & stock rear tranny Xmember (TH400 was original in 1990 454SS trucks). There are many suppliers making the offset brackets to mount small/big block Chevy mounts to the LSx block. You will need chevy frame mounts to make this work (different than Pontiac. I used a S & P accessory drive to raise the A/C compressor. It was a nice kit, but very expensive. Supposedly you can use a stock truck LSx setup with little work. I did this swap about 4-5 years ago & very little was avaiilable for the LSx swaps back then. The stock Camaro oil pan was on the motor & it fit the xmember great. The 1988-1998 C/K 2wd trucks have a similar xmember to the A bodies. Not sure if this will work or not.

As for the in tank pump, I used AN fittings on my truck with a bosch pump in the tank. I just bent some hard line & got an AN fitting that adapts from the steel line to the AN -6. Then I soldered the hard line into the stock sending unit. The chevy truck came with an in tank pump originally, but it was a low pressure pump. My Accel DFI came with the bosch pump & it was about 3 times larger than the stock pump.

I would think you should be able to fab up a setup to use the stock GM pump in an original style sending unit. I think the LS3 uses a returnless system, so you really only need one line run to the front. I had the fuel rail modified to be a return style & used the original GM return line in this truck swap. Of course the feed line needed upgraded for the higher pressure (TBI is 6-9 psi, LSx is 45+ psi).

Just my .02. Good luck with the project.

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  #9  
Old 10-05-2008, 03:33 AM
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well it looks like that thread about the wrecked gtos was the straw that broke the camels back. should be nice though. as cleanly detailed as all the pictures of the mechanical aspects of your cars ive seen on here show iam sure youll be able to make it look like it belongs there. good luck

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Old 10-05-2008, 11:45 PM
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Sorry that I am a little late to the party. Looks like you have a well detailed plan. One thing I should mention is that the GM Performance harness and ECU combo, like I am using, does not support automatic transmissions. It is a manual trans only harness. If you are going with an automatic, I would suggest getting in touch with Speartech. If you want to use the GM harness and explore other options, there are a few good ones. My favorite would be to contact Twist Machine, and get one of their programmable ECUs.

I would go with the stock Corvette accessories. Notch the frame for the A/C compressor. Use Edelbrock adapter plates, as they will mount the bellhousing in exactly the same position as before. Edelbrock also makes nice headers for your application.

I am using an LS7 cam and my combo made 418RWHP. So I would definitely recommend some kind of cam swap. Even a super mild cam will get you an extra 30-40 HP without sounding like it has any kind of non-stock cam.

If you have any specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Andrew

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Old 10-10-2008, 07:01 PM
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BRP? makes conversion mounts and rear x member for the swap with the 4l60 it seems there is not tunnel work needed on the 64-67

The engine mounts he makes allow you to use the F body engine as a take out and not have to notch frames or the like and puts you with the proper drivelline angle

489 bucks for the setup.

Although from what I read it keeps adding up with the trans tail shaft conversion for mech. speedo if you want it and so on and so on.

I have been looking recently I picked up an LS1 and 4l60 for my 37 ford but am thinking very hard about putting it in my 65 tempest wagon would make a very nice fuel efficient fast driver over my 4sp and ram air 3 cammed 400 at 10.25:1 engine.

Plus the weight savings will really change the handling characteristics something fierce

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  #12  
Old 10-11-2008, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
Sorry that I am a little late to the party. Looks like you have a well detailed plan. One thing I should mention is that the GM Performance harness and ECU combo, like I am using, does not support automatic transmissions. It is a manual trans only harness. If you are going with an automatic, I would suggest getting in touch with Speartech. If you want to use the GM harness and explore other options, there are a few good ones. My favorite would be to contact Twist Machine, and get one of their programmable ECUs.

I would go with the stock Corvette accessories. Notch the frame for the A/C compressor. Use Edelbrock adapter plates, as they will mount the bellhousing in exactly the same position as before. Edelbrock also makes nice headers for your application.

I am using an LS7 cam and my combo made 418RWHP. So I would definitely recommend some kind of cam swap. Even a super mild cam will get you an extra 30-40 HP without sounding like it has any kind of non-stock cam.

If you have any specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Andrew
Andrew,

Thanks for the helping me get things started here, you've given me some very important bits of specific engine mounting and header application info that I really appreciate.

I have four questions for now, more to come later I'm sure.

1.) What is the part # for the LS7 cam?

I'm all for running OEM stuff in this engine rather than aftermarket for longevity's sake. LS7 427 cam specs: Duration @ .050 211/230,.593/.588 lift with 1.8:1 rockers, lift will be reduced to .560/.555 with stock LS3 1.7:1 rockers (fine by me).

2.) Exactly what rubber (or urethane?) engine mounts/OEM steel frame mounts do I need to make the Edelbrock (P/N 6701) adapter plates work? Link to adapter plates:http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=23&y=11

I assume I'll need to source some Chevelle pieces here. I've done some searching/reading on a couple of different sites and I see different combinations of wide/narrow/short/tall Chevelle engine mounts and frame mounts mentioned for the A-body swaps. Which direction do I need to go here?

3.) How much ground clearance do the Edelbrock (P/N 65073) LSX swap headers offer? How far do they hang below the frame rail on your car Andrew? Link to headers:http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

4.) Which oil pans will work with the engine in this mounting position, either factory or aftermarket?

I noticed while reading through your thread that you bought an aftermarket pan from Autokraft for your '70. Since buying that pan have you learned anything more about other pan options for the A-body cars?

I am really leaning towards running an un-modified factory pan. I know my car won't have the cornering ability to require anything more than a factory pan. I'd like to retain any additional bottom end reinforcement the thick cast aluminum pan has to offer, even though that added stiffness may be more sales hype than fact. Also trying to keep costs in check here, I really don't want to spend $400-$600 on an aftermarket pan and possibly relocate the oil filter.

The Corvette pan that the LS3 engine comes with is supposed to be fairly compact, but I'm considering the GM factory LH8 pan which is even more compact and supposed to be a good fit for early GM F & A-body LSX conversions (2008 Hummer H3 Alpha pan w/gasket & bolts: P/N 12614821, pickup/screen: P/N 12608593). P/N 19212593 is for the kit that includes the pan, pump pick up, dipstick, hardware, gaskets, and windage tray http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=245308.

I've seen a picture of the LH8 pan in a '64 Lemans with a BRP mounting kit but I'm not sure if the engine is mounted in close to the same location as mine will be. It looks to sit a bit higher with the BRP kit than I want mine to sit, not sure. The engine mounts look tall, and it appears the engine is sitting high to help the accessory drives clear the frame/steering components with minimal cutting/grinding. Link to thread with pics:http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43481 The LH8 pan looks to hang about 1" below the crossmember, not a big issue as I'm assuming the Edelbrock headers will hang about that far below the bottom of the frame rail as well.

Thanks again to you and to everyone else here who have taken the time to help me with their constructive input.

So far it looks like the Edelbrock engine mounting plates and headers will be on order pretty soon, still up in the air on the oil pan and exactly what OEM engine mounts I'll need.

Bart

  #13  
Old 10-13-2008, 01:57 PM
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Bart -

I was at Memphis this weekend for the NMCA meet and one of the manufacturers on the midway specialized in GM LSX motor transplants in various vintage musclecars. The car they had on display was an old rotted '64 Lemans hardtop with a LS motor installed.

I grabbed some business cards:

Muscle Rods
GM LSX Conversion Kit specialists
Shawn Henderson
Marketing and Sales
Office 770-751-0687
Direct line 678-873-0847
www.MuscleRods.com

Muscle Rods
GM LSX Conversion Kit specialists
Bart Johnson
Shop Manager
Office 770-751-0687
Direct line 678-446-0653
www.MuscleRods.com

Muscle Rods
GM LSX Conversion Kit specialists
Phil Brewer
Owner
Office 770-751-0687
Direct line 678-457-0987
www.MuscleRods.com

There also was a company that did accesory drive bracketry.

They were

Kwik Performance
1146 W. Pheasant Run St
Springfield MO 65810
417-955-1467
www.kwikperf.com

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  #14  
Old 10-22-2008, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-man View Post
Andrew,

..........

1.) What is the part # for the LS7 cam?

I'm all for running OEM stuff in this engine rather than aftermarket for longevity's sake. LS7 427 cam specs: Duration @ .050 211/230,.593/.588 lift with 1.8:1 rockers, lift will be reduced to .560/.555 with stock LS3 1.7:1 rockers (fine by me).

2.) Exactly what rubber (or urethane?) engine mounts/OEM steel frame mounts do I need to make the Edelbrock (P/N 6701) adapter plates work? Link to adapter plates:http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...+115&x=23&y=11

I assume I'll need to source some Chevelle pieces here. I've done some searching/reading on a couple of different sites and I see different combinations of wide/narrow/short/tall Chevelle engine mounts and frame mounts mentioned for the A-body swaps. Which direction do I need to go here?

3.) How much ground clearance do the Edelbrock (P/N 65073) LSX swap headers offer? How far do they hang below the frame rail on your car Andrew? Link to headers:http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D65073&N=700 +4294923429+400065+4294839039+4294918680+429479936 5+115&autoview=sku

4.) Which oil pans will work with the engine in this mounting position, either factory or aftermarket?

I noticed while reading through your thread that you bought an aftermarket pan from Autokraft for your '70. Since buying that pan have you learned anything more about other pan options for the A-body cars?

I am really leaning towards running an un-modified factory pan. I know my car won't have the cornering ability to require anything more than a factory pan. I'd like to retain any additional bottom end reinforcement the thick cast aluminum pan has to offer, even though that added stiffness may be more sales hype than fact. Also trying to keep costs in check here, I really don't want to spend $400-$600 on an aftermarket pan and possibly relocate the oil filter.

The Corvette pan that the LS3 engine comes with is supposed to be fairly compact, but I'm considering the GM factory LH8 pan which is even more compact and supposed to be a good fit for early GM F & A-body LSX conversions (2008 Hummer H3 Alpha pan w/gasket & bolts: P/N 12614821, pickup/screen: P/N 12608593). P/N 19212593 is for the kit that includes the pan, pump pick up, dipstick, hardware, gaskets, and windage tray http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...&ProdID=245308.

I've seen a picture of the LH8 pan in a '64 Lemans with a BRP mounting kit but I'm not sure if the engine is mounted in close to the same location as mine will be. It looks to sit a bit higher with the BRP kit than I want mine to sit, not sure. The engine mounts look tall, and it appears the engine is sitting high to help the accessory drives clear the frame/steering components with minimal cutting/grinding. Link to thread with pics:http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43481 The LH8 pan looks to hang about 1" below the crossmember, not a big issue as I'm assuming the Edelbrock headers will hang about that far below the bottom of the frame rail as well.

Thanks again to you and to everyone else here who have taken the time to help me with their constructive input.

So far it looks like the Edelbrock engine mounting plates and headers will be on order pretty soon, still up in the air on the oil pan and exactly what OEM engine mounts I'll need.

Bart
Bart,

I am sorry for the late response, but let me see if I can tackle some of your questions.

1. No clue. LOL. I got mine from Jeff Schwartz. Give him a call. I think he has a couple of new, take out, LS7 cams sitting around that were taken out of new crate engines. http://www.schwartzperformance.com/

2. Used the exact same parts that I had with the BBC. I have reproduction Chevelle big block frame stands and Energy Suspension, tall/narrow poly mounts.

3. I haven't measured the ground clearance, but the Edelbrock headers tuck up nicely. I can take a measurement if this is critical. I will say that they are the best fitting headers I have ever owned.

4. For me, the only option was the Autokraft pan. From everything that I have read, non of the OEM pans will work the the Edelbrock mounts. I needed to use the Edelbrock mounts because their engineer claimed that their mounts will position my bellhousing in the exact same location as it was with my BBC. This was critical for me since I did not change the transmission. My shifter needed to be in the same location as before. As it turned out, Edelbrock designed the mounts as promised and my shifter is in exactly the same location as before. I asked if I can use the CTSV pan, but the Edelbrock engineer told me I could not and sent me pictures that showed where the pan hit. Believe me, they really wanted an OEM pan to work, but as it stands none do. So with that I got the Autokraft pan because it is the only steel pan that retains the oil filter in the stock location. That was the critical feature for me. I would never use the LH8 pan. It hangs 2 inches below the front crossmember. That just looks hideous.

If you don't mind moving the engine back I have seen swaps that use the 4th gen F-body pans. Keep in mind that moving the engine back can present problems with the heads hitting the firewall if you ever have to swap transmission. When the seal in my hydraulic TOB blew I had to pull the trans. With the engine in the stock location I was able to really tip the transmission down and service it without an issues. I can see if the engine was further back the heads might hit the firewall.

I hope that helps.

Andrew

  #15  
Old 10-11-2008, 04:46 PM
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LOL ya know I wanted a pontiac motor and built an IA2 for a serious engine but to do it all over again I would get a stroker LS or LS7 minor beefing up and go way more miles to gallon, injected and doctile compared to a similar HP POntiac based motor.

But hey I like my IA2 too.

YOu won't ruin the tempest hey it is all bolt in anyway.

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  #16  
Old 12-07-2008, 04:54 PM
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Default You're my hero!

First off, I would like to say I LOVE the concept that you're going for with the resto-mod '64. I'm preparing to do the same with my '69 LeMans. Needless to say I'll be watching this one very closely.

On that note I've got a couple of philisophocal questions for you:

1) Why did you choose to go with the crate motor instead of (for example) a used truck motor or a used LS-2.
2) I noticed that you're making provisions to use the original-era mechanical guages. Are there vendors that convert original style guages to electronic such that they would work with a newer PCM? Or is that not an option..
3) For the wheel/tire combo, have you considered (although they are pricey) the wheel vintiques steel or aluminum aftermarket wheels? They have the original look, but come in 17" and larger for better handling.

I'll probably have more as time moves on, but again, I love what you're doing!


  #17  
Old 12-07-2008, 05:42 PM
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Default While I'm in between coats here, my reply

Quote:
Originally Posted by fgs0347 View Post
First off, I would like to say I LOVE the concept that you're going for with the resto-mod '64. I'm preparing to do the same with my '69 LeMans. Needless to say I'll be watching this one very closely.

On that note I've got a couple of philisophocal questions for you:

1) Why did you choose to go with the crate motor instead of (for example) a used truck motor or a used LS-2.
2) I noticed that you're making provisions to use the original-era mechanical guages. Are there vendors that convert original style guages to electronic such that they would work with a newer PCM? Or is that not an option..
3) For the wheel/tire combo, have you considered (although they are pricey) the wheel vintiques steel or aluminum aftermarket wheels? They have the original look, but come in 17" and larger for better handling.

I'll probably have more as time moves on, but again, I love what you're doing!

Thanks for the kind words friend.

1) I chose a spankin' new LS3 engine because for one thing I know where it's been, and it comes with a 24 month/24K mile warranty. A lot of salvage yards want way too much for these 6.2 liter engines. If you don't buy a Corvette version you'll still have to spend a fair amount of dough to undo all of the truck stuff that won't fit in with the swap parameters.

2) At this point I'm not sure of my gauging options, I really haven't researched that one important detail as of right now.

3) The steel wheels are just too heavy, period. My current 17X8s weigh 37# bare, with a 235/45-17 tire they weigh 56# . I considered having a new pair of 17X9" rear steelies made to match my current set so I could continue the same look. However after looking at the cost ($209 each plus painting) and the need for new tires I was already halfway to a set a new lightweight 18X9s and tires.

I'd bet the 18" wheels I bought are far lighter than any of the Wheel Vintiques aluminum 17" wheels, plus I just don't care for the styling of them anyways.

My Tempest really needs a set of black wheels for it to look 'right' to me, I really couldn't be any happier with ones I bought. They were somewhat pricey at $358 each, I bought 5 of them. Not a bad price for a very nice-looking high-quality cast wheel that weighs only 20.8# bare, 45.8# total w/tire for each front and 47.8# for the rear.

  #18  
Old 10-13-2008, 05:21 PM
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Colin Frolick Colin Frolick is offline
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there's also ATS, didn't see them mentioned yet, they make motor mounts, oil pans, etc. www.t56kit.com

and i'll second upgrading just the cam in a new LS3 probably gains 30-40hp

  #19  
Old 10-14-2008, 11:45 PM
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Keith,

Thanks for the links, both are now bookmarked. I saw the crusty '64 Lemans on the Pro-Touring.com site, I linked to a thread showing their kit in my post above. Still not sure if their kit puts the engine and trans in the right position to suit me.

Colin,

Thanks for the link to ATS, I'll explore their site.

A cam swap is the best bang for the buck next to headers, it would be nice to be approaching 500 flywheel HP and still be able to get 20+ MPG on the open road. Those 320-330 cfm heads will really wake up with some more cam.

  #20  
Old 10-15-2008, 12:25 AM
gearhead78 gearhead78 is offline
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Watching this thread. My 64 will probably get some sort of LS motor

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