[67drake]

I had “tuning” issues with my ‘63 LeMans last season, and determined the next step is to pull the distributor out and ditch the Pertronix. I had a thread going on about it back then.
My distributor guy is just going to convert it back to points, and give the distributor a good going over. My question is what will it take to go back to points after Pertronix was run? I didn’t install the Pertronix, it was on the engine when I purchased the car. Does a resistor wire need to be put back in? Are those available? This is a situation I’ve never dealt with before.
Thanks.

[John Milner]

If you want it to look original, you would want to run a new resistor wire if it was cut off. I'm not sure if those are available aftermarket by themselves. I suppose you could find a parts harness and remove the resistor wire and attach to your harness. Another option would be to use the 12V wire that went to the Pertronix system and attach it to a ballast resistor mounted to the firewall to cut the voltage down to the points.

[blueghoast]

I would just use anther Distributor that way you got a spare?

GT

[kyle_blake]

Another option is put the points back in it , take condenser out and use as a trigger for a MSD 6AL box or something to that effect that has a REV limiter ability. Might be more $$ than it's worth.

[Half-Inch Stud]

HEI could-should be the final dizzy destination.

[Scarebird]

IIRC Mopars use a regular wire but an actual resistor wired inline.

[67drake]

Thanks for the replies. Just curious-what is this in front of the coil? Reminds me of the ballast resistors I’d see on old Chryslers. Never seen this on a GM, but this is the oldest GM car I’ve ever owned.

[67drake]

Spun photo

[J.C.you]

Did you happen to change the coil? Pertronix uses a specific coil

[Joe's Garage]

Originally Posted by 67drake

Thanks for the replies. Just curious-what is this in front of the coil? Reminds me of the ballast resistors I’d see on old Chryslers. Never seen this on a GM, but this is the oldest GM car I’ve ever owned.

That looks like a ballast resistor to me.

[67drake]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

Did you happen to change the coil? Pertronix uses a specific coil

I don’t know. Engine was set up like this when I bought the car about a year ago.
I looked through my ‘63 manual and couldn’t find anything on a ballast resistor being use originally.

[mgarblik]

That is a ballast resistor in your picture with that blue coil. If that ballast resistor was hooked up and it was supplying 8-9 volts to the Petronix unit, that's why it would not work properly. They are very clear that you must have full battery power to the Petronix unit, 12V nominal for it to function. If going back to points, you need full battery voltage to the points when in the crank position and reduced voltage through a ballast resistor or resistance wire when in the run position, 9 volts or so. Honestly, you need to sort what has been done to the wiring harness first before worrying about the distributor. The point ignition often runs a wire off the small "R" terminal on the starter for full battery power cranking. But many replacement starters don't have that terminal and none of the mini-starters have that terminal. The 12 volts will have to come from the ignition switch in crank only to satisfy the point ignition. Not a big deal but you need to find out what you have now in order to get where you want to go.

[67drake]

Hmmm. Par for the coarse with this car, a mystery. It ran great at one point hooked up as it is, but it wouldn’t surprise me if the previous owner botched this up too.
Now if the temperature would get above 0, so I can spend some time in the shop.

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by 67drake

I had “tuning” issues with my ‘63 LeMans last season, and determined the next step is to pull the distributor out and ditch the Pertronix. I had a thread going on about it back then.
My distributor guy is just going to convert it back to points, and give the distributor a good going over. My question is what will it take to go back to points after Pertronix was run? I didn’t install the Pertronix, it was on the engine when I purchased the car. Does a resistor wire need to be put back in? Are those available? This is a situation I’ve never dealt with before.
Thanks.

Wouldn´t your "distributor guy" be able to guide you?

Anyway, start the engine, check voltage at battery, should be about 14 volts. Then check voltage at coil, should be about 14 volt with Pertronix. If 11 volts or less you have a resistor on the "run" lead that need to be bypassed.

For points ignition you´ll need a coil with 1.8-2.0 Ohms in the primary winding, between + and - and a resistor of about 1.35 Ohms in run lead (IGN1). For start you´ll need full battery power from the R terminal on starter or yellow lead from ignition switch (IGN2).
Points ignition usually has about 11 volts running and about 7 volts with ignition on, engine not running.

HTH

[Cliff R]

Going back to points is a EXCELLENT idea, IMHO.

In recent years I've come to HATE Pertronix as I've had nothing but issues with them and my carb builds got ALL the blame. I learned very quickly to ask the customer having issues if they made the switch to Pertronix, and anytime they said yes I had them look there for issues and low and behold just about every single time that's where the problem was.

Anyhow, as mentioned points require either the factory resistor wire to the coil or external ballast resistor plus an ingition bypass wire during starting.

I'd also recommend to go on Ebay and obtain a couple sets of NOS Delco Remy points sets and put them on the shelf. I bought 6 sets last month and they averaged less than $10 a set delivered. You can also find them with the cap and rotor NOS at reasonable prices. I'm NOT fond of too much of the current production points sets and always use NOS when I build distributors here. I recommend installing one set, set the dwell and remove them. Put them in a zip loc bag and store in the vehicle glove box with a head lamp and screwdriver. Install a second set, set dwell and enjoy the vehicle. Unlikely you'll need the first set, but for sure it beats a roll-back and/or walking if you have an issue with them.......

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by Kenth

Points ignition usually has about 11 volts running and about 7 volts with ignition on, engine not running.

HTH

and about 7 volts with ignition on, engine not running WITH THE POINTS CLOSED. With the points open it should read battery voltage.

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon

and about 7 volts with ignition on, engine not running WITH THE POINTS CLOSED. With the points open it should read battery voltage.

Correct!

[george kujanski]

IIRC, to use the standard Pertronix, the module power should be battery voltage, whereas the coil power should still use the resistor wire. connecting the module hot wire to the coil + terminal will cause the module to see a flutuating supply voltage, which may be the cause of pertronix complaints.

One main problem with the use of aftermarket electronics usage over the years is incorrect connections.

Way back when i was designing diesel engine protection systems, a customer called complaining that his unit didn't work. After much discussion over the fone, I went over the wiring.... When i got to "terminal "L" should be connected to engine ground", he said "what"????? Obviously he expected the ground to be accomplished thru the module mounting. not so.

George

[Kenth]

The red wire from Pertronix I, II and III must have full battery power at "start" and "run" with NO external resistors inline.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...files/1181.pdf

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...iles/91181.pdf

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...iles/71181.pdf