[NAPA SAL]

I cannot get the squirters to squirt on the rear carb on my 65. Carb has been tanked and tested for open passages. the squirters feed is open and the two holes are open. I changed the ball and spring. When the ball and spring was out, I filled the bowl and pushed down the accelerator pump and the fluid came to the top of the hole. I installed the venturi, and nothing. I tried a soft plastic part in place of the accelerator pump that fit tighter than the pump, and STILL no squirt. PLEASE HELP!!!!

[Sirrotica]

There are 2 check balls in the 2 bbl Rochesters, one you already have located, the other goes into the bottom of the accelerator pump well. They are different diameters, and if you put the smaller one in the well it sticks in the casting. Sometimes it's nearly impossible to remove, it may be that someone has switched the balls and it is stuck in the casting.

In this parts diagram it would be #7:



I've seen this happen before, so I'm just throwing it out there that could be a possibility.

[mike w]

You have that backward. The smaller checkball goes in the pump well. I suspect it may be missing. Similar Chevy carbs from the 60s have no orifice in the bottom of the well.

So, I have seen this checkball missing more than a couple of times. I suspect someone familiar with Chevy Rochesters has had this carb apart.

[carbking]

Agree on the probability of missing intake check ball (or possibly the wrong ball or one not seating).

If the ball was in place, and you pushed down on the pump with the output check ball, spring and guide missing, you would have a face full of fuel, not the fuel just coming to the top of the hole.

Jon

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by mike w

You have that backward. The smaller checkball goes in the pump well. I suspect it may be missing. Similar Chevy carbs from the 60s have no orifice in the bottom of the well.

So, I have seen this checkball missing more than a couple of times. I suspect someone familiar with Chevy Rochesters has had this carb apart.

I may have reversed the sizes, but I know from experience if it gets stuck in the casting, it's really tough to get it out. Been probably 25 years since I've messed with the 2bbl Rochesters, so it gets hazy sometimes.....

[Dick Boneske]

I posted an explanation a few years ago. with pictures of how to remove the stuck check ball.

[Dick Boneske]

Here is the link.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...94#post5664594

[NAPA SAL]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

There are 2 check balls in the 2 bbl Rochesters, one you already have located, the other goes into the bottom of the accelerator pump well. They are different diameters, and if you put the smaller one in the well it sticks in the casting. Sometimes it's nearly impossible to remove, it may be that someone has switched the balls and it is stuck in the casting.

In this parts diagram it would be #7:



I've seen this happen before, so I'm just throwing it out there that could be a possibility.

OK I have the large ball under the tiny spring and T holder. I have the smaller ball under the accelerator pump. Still no squirt AND if I tilt the carb slightly back towards the throttle plates, gas pours out the tiny venturi holes, which is my original reason for disassembly. I even doubled the gasket and tightened the hell out of the venturi.

[NAPA SAL]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

There are 2 check balls in the 2 bbl Rochesters, one you already have located, the other goes into the bottom of the accelerator pump well. They are different diameters, and if you put the smaller one in the well it sticks in the casting. Sometimes it's nearly impossible to remove, it may be that someone has switched the balls and it is stuck in the casting.

In this parts diagram it would be #7:



I've seen this happen before, so I'm just throwing it out there that could be a possibility.

OK I have the large ball under the tiny spring and T holder. I have the smaller ball under the accelerator pump. Still no squirt AND if I tilt the carb slightly back towards the throttle plates, gas pours out the tiny venturi holes, which is my original reason for disassembly. I even doubled the gasket and tightened the hell out of the venturi.

[carbking]

OK, something simple we are all missing.

The lower ball opens to allow fuel to enter the pump well from the bowl (evidently working) and closes to prevent fuel from being pumped back into the bowl.

So on the workbench (suggest using water, not fuel), if you fill the pump well, but put no water in the bowl, does the water bleed past the lower ball into the bowl (it should not). If the discharge check ball, spring, and "T" retainer is out, and you now push down quickly on the pump, do you get a healthy squirt of water out the discharge where the discharge ball would have been.

Make these tests and something should turn up. I have seen several of the ball seats in the pump well which have been ruined by Dr. Goodpliers (the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench) drilling out a stuck ball instead of following Dick's method.

You will find the issue, just need to do some testing from bowl to squirter.

Jon

[gtoguys]

Maybe a stupid answer, are the squirter holes plugged? They are 0.022", not very big and can get plugged by very little of anything.