#41  
Old 02-29-2020, 03:40 PM
Nicks67GTO Nicks67GTO is offline
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For the record that Lares box is falsely advertised. It's a typical fast ratio 12:1 box that they call a 10:1 for some reason. They were adamant it was a 10:1 box at street machine nationals, where we talked to them extensively about it. My buddy bought one, stuck it in his autoX chevelle.... 0 difference in turns lock to lock over his 12:1 caprice box so he sent it back.

I've now had 2 jeep boxes and a 12:1 Flaming River 600 box in my GTO. I still say the jeep box is the best bang for the buck.

That said I just bought a Sweet MFG 10:1 700 box last week, since I autoX a lot. Should be 2 turns lock to lock. I'll report back what I think about it. I might sell my Flaming River 600 box too, if anyones interested.

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  #42  
Old 02-29-2020, 04:20 PM
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Good info in this thread. I'm getting ready to buy a box for my '66 and am thinking that I'll go with the Jeep box option.

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  #43  
Old 03-01-2020, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO View Post
For the record that Lares box is falsely advertised. It's a typical fast ratio 12:1 box that they call a 10:1 for some reason. They were adamant it was a 10:1 box at street machine nationals, where we talked to them extensively about it. My buddy bought one, stuck it in his autoX chevelle.... 0 difference in turns lock to lock over his 12:1 caprice box so he sent it back.

I've now had 2 jeep boxes and a 12:1 Flaming River 600 box in my GTO. I still say the jeep box is the best bang for the buck.

That said I just bought a Sweet MFG 10:1 700 box last week, since I autoX a lot. Should be 2 turns lock to lock. I'll report back what I think about it. I might sell my Flaming River 600 box too, if anyones interested.
Curious, what didn't you like about the Flaming River 600 box?


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  #44  
Old 03-02-2020, 12:43 PM
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We need a box for our '68 Firebird. I do not want to screw around with metric adaptors. Any ratio that's quicker than stock that retains stock turning radius would be great. Ideas?

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  #45  
Old 03-02-2020, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dick Boneske View Post
We need a box for our '68 Firebird. I do not want to screw around with metric adaptors. Any ratio that's quicker than stock that retains stock turning radius would be great. Ideas?
An 800 box is your best bet, but get one from a reputable builder, like Turn One or someone. The rest of the stuff out there is hit or miss. The cores are all just ate up.

Stay away from the CP boxes.

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Old 03-03-2020, 04:57 AM
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Get one from the forum host.....

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Old 03-03-2020, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Boneske View Post
We need a box for our '68 Firebird. I do not want to screw around with metric adaptors. Any ratio that's quicker than stock that retains stock turning radius would be great. Ideas?
I would look at the Lares box. Although it is a metric coupler, that coupler is provided and already installed on the box when you receive it. It also utilizes the stock pressure and return line fittings. As a result it's a drop-in affair.

Nick is likely right that it's actually a 12:1 box. It's much faster than the variable ratio that was in my 69. It's not fly you into the next lane without notice quick though, as I somewhat expected it to be.

My turning radius actually got better with this box over the variable box that the car came with, likely because the Lares box doesn't have internal stops.

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Last edited by JLMounce; 03-03-2020 at 12:20 PM.
  #48  
Old 03-03-2020, 02:11 PM
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I used a spare SAE pressure hose, a short piece of metric-ended tubing , and a tubing coupler to connect mine. No change to the metric box.

George

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  #49  
Old 03-03-2020, 04:01 PM
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Remember too, turning radius can be restricted by internal stops, as well as tie rod end/control arm stops.

Some swap out the one year only '68 'bird tie rods, centerlink, and idler with a later year/model, and those can cause tie rod end stop contact shorter than the '68 setup.

F-bodies have different internal stops than A-bodies, and many rebuild services don't verify the internal stops. They lump all the F & A boxes together.

I don't think I've ever seen a 10:1 800 box.

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  #50  
Old 03-03-2020, 10:43 PM
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X2 with HYWYSTAR455 on the internal stops.
Before you install said box, you should check the actual full turn radius on the pitman shaft.

Firebird boxes have less sweep ( fewer degrees of movement) than the a body boxes.
And many boxes out there have different angles ,or amountof sweep angles.

My 64 had a box that had 78 degrees of pittman arm sweep lock to lock
The replacement had 87 degrees of sweep ,lock to lock.

9 degrees doesnt sound like much, untill you have t park at a car show.Ask me how I know.

IIRC the pittman arm on a firebird is longer (Maybe) so it needs less pittman arm travel (sweep) to move the same distance as a box with a shorter arm with more sweep.

I hope I did not confuse you, (or everyone else either LOL)

  #51  
Old 03-14-2022, 10:43 AM
Diamicton Diamicton is offline
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Can someone expand on the power steering valve? I have a 67 Firebird with the stock power steering pump. What exactly was done to get the right power steering assist to avoid too much, potentially making the steering twitchy?


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  #52  
Old 03-14-2022, 12:40 PM
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The flow, PSI and GPH, need to match the steering box. Type 1 psi is usually like 1100-1250, at about 2.5-4 gph, if I recall correctly, depending on application.

Schurkey did a table with the different control valve styles, listing psi & gph values. Would have to search it.

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  #53  
Old 03-14-2022, 01:40 PM
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I'd recommend a call to Lee Power Steering on the subject as well.

You can modify the pressure fittings to do several things, like increase flow or pressure, but going too far in one direction is typically what causes erratic behavior.

I recently had Lee build me a new pump that I've yet to install. It's spec'd specifically for my application and needs. Not all that much more than a quality remanufactured pump from somebody like CVF either.

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  #54  
Old 03-17-2022, 09:04 AM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is online now
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This is kind of a timely zombie thread for me.

I put in a Non FE2 3rd gen steering box a few years ago. Worked well especially after I went to a CVF pump that had increased pressure.

The problem is it started leaking only a year after installed. Im tired of the little puddle of fluid under my car after every drive. Its just a drip, but its obnoxious. Especially for a new pump.

I also want to go with an actual IROC FE2 box this time that limits the steering to 64 degrees as Im putting some wheels on the front that are stretching the limits of rubbing.

My question is how bad to boxes typically actually wear? After getting burned by a reman box, Im more inclined to buy an OEM box out of a wrecking yard or off someone parting a car out. But I dont want to trade my leaker for a box thats sloppy.

Ive driven a bunch of old cars with worn factory suspensions, but Ive never actually encountered one that the steering gear was the problem.

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  #55  
Old 04-08-2022, 11:20 AM
Joe-Touring Joe-Touring is offline
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I used a Jeep Grand Cherokee box, I’m very happy with it. Much less power assist, better road feel, and good response. I have a good amount of suspension work done to my car, but the steering gets the most compliments when one of my friends drives it. I followed the attached graphic and used a NAPA p/s pump from an 85 Camaro. You will need a rag joint from a square body C10. You can use factory hoses w/ adaptors. I used these(even tho I despise CPP):

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-605sol

Been a couple years, no leaks

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  #56  
Old 04-08-2022, 11:52 AM
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That is a helpful graphic and the same way I did mine. Only mine started leaking at the input shaft after a year.

I wonder if it leaks because of heat from the headers? Maybe I should try to find one of the heat shields that the graphic mentions.

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  #57  
Old 04-08-2022, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
That is a helpful graphic and the same way I did mine. Only mine started leaking at the input shaft after a year.

I wonder if it leaks because of heat from the headers? Maybe I should try to find one of the heat shields that the graphic mentions.
First Gen F-body woes.

I don't even have enough space between my headers and the box to get a heat shield in between. My lares box remains dry however.

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