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#1
05-31-2022, 12:43 AM
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Duct work, fan wiring and Heater Core removal 79 TA
As you all can see that I have been posting many questions here about my acquired 79 TA.
I am working on trying to fix all that is wrong and I have opened up one massive can of worms. Pulled the dash off today for painting / Dying reasons and have missing AC duct work and a fan switch that has the connector missing but wires were slip terminal connected to the back of the AC fan switch. The fan doesnt work and the heater core needs to be replaced - below is a photo of the rats nest I have that shows the missing duct work. I believe I need one or two pieces that go over the steering column to the driver side vent and one piece to connect the passenger side vent - is that correct? Is there a fan switch connector pig tail available or can someone tell me which wire color goes to which terminal on the switch - I believe there are a total of 4 wires to the switch. Also heater core removal - is it easier to remove the heater core now with the dash off and can everything be done behind the dash or do I have to remove the fender wheel well to access bolts and the fan that may also be bad? I appreciate all comments and advise Thank you. |
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#2
05-31-2022, 03:13 AM
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The heater core is in the suitcase under the dash. The wiring harness will start to tidy up as you direct each section to where it needs to go.
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#3
05-31-2022, 12:37 PM
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If you need to replace blower fan motor then passenger inner fender needs to be removed. It will also help in removing heater core as the bolts that secure heater core box to firewall are in the engine bay. It looks like you are just missing two AC vents should be easy enough to locate. Check out Hogheads Trans Am page as he has a good description of wiring harness.
https://www.firebirdtransamparts.com/ 
__________________
going bandit-Reynolds style |
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#4
06-01-2022, 07:02 PM
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Thanks guys for the info and the photo of the duct work- I will work to get what I need - do they have a pig tail connector available for the AC fan switch because all I have is the wires with slip terminals on them. The previous owner had just slipped connectors on the spades of the switch. If no pig tail available can someone tell me what colors go where on the 4 terminals of the switch.
Also, can I test the fan by putting twelve volts to the fan switch wires? The switch seems good as I have continuity on the different spades of the switch as I cycle through the positions - the continuity changes over the spades of the switch as the switch is moved to the different positions. |
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#5
06-03-2022, 08:50 PM
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While you're in there, you'll almost certainly need to replace the push/pull valve that opens and closes one of the doors in the HVAC box. They always rust closed. Both of mine have had to be replaced. The part is at Ames. The number is FP334 and runs $55. It shows it fits a 70-75. For whatever reason, the 76-77 and 80-81 use a different valve. The 79 used the same valve as the earlier 70-75.
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[/SIGPIC] Two marriages and one long term relationship later and it's the T/A that's always still there. When referencing gas, "regular" used to have an entirely different meaning. |
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#6
06-06-2022, 01:46 AM
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You do have to remove the fender wheel well to access the hose connections to change the heater core. But unless you know there’s already a new core in there, DO IT NOW while the dash is off. It is a huge PITA to change the core with the dash on, and they do go bad eventually. As you say, your fan may very well be on its last legs too. Replace it now. These things will add some more worms to the massive can you’re already facing, but in the long run you’ll be very very happy you took care of them now.
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1976 Trans Am Buccaneer Red 468ci, 10.5:1 CR, 87 CC RPM CNC e-heads, HR 282/288, 230/236, 561/.573 lift, Johnson Lifters & HS 1.65 Rockers |
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#7
06-06-2022, 10:41 AM
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As mentioned it's much easyer to do the the core with your dash removed and as Brentco said the blower motor also. Put tape on the door and fender edge to prevent hurting the paint when bottom bolts are removed and the fender is loose.
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#8
06-06-2022, 11:32 AM
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When I acquired the TA the heater core was and is bypassed. Along with the car came a new heater core in the box and I believe a new fan (not tested). I will pressure test the new heater core before I install it. Dash is off and I will move forward with the heater core install before I put the interior back together.
Thank you for the heads up on the Push / Pull valve. Is there a way to test the current valve as this is a VERY rust free car and all parts inside the dash are rust free- no rust in any fender or wheel well areas - no rust behind the removed kick panels. The previous owner disassembled the AC on a motor performance upgrade - He thought he would lose to much Horse power with the AC. I want to get it all working again. Is there any video out there on a heater core removal and install process? |
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#9
06-06-2022, 11:43 AM
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There is also a little vacuum hose on top of heater core box that actuates some of the inner doors that is often brittle or broken off. Check that hose and make sure it is not deteriorating it is usually a orange looking color. Here is some good enough on heater core replacement. Also check for dirt and debris in that passenger side vent door
https://nastyz28.com/2gcog/tech/heatcore.html
__________________
going bandit-Reynolds style |
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